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Pixie

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Hi I just wondered whether anyone might have any smoke box door castings for the lNWR G2 Im also still looking for a beames 0-8-2 tank kit if any one has one they would like to sell

Regards

John

 

Hi John,

 

I may have a set of the castings done by Mike Bryant about the place. On holiday this week so it will be next before I can look.

 

Chris

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'Rural Railways' had a box of N gauge castings at a recent exhibition that I think were from the Foxhunter loco kits (whose range included a G2). Might be worth a phone call to see if he has a smokebox door.

 

Andy

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Hi I just wondered whether anyone might have any smoke box door castings for the lNWR G2 Im also still looking for a beames 0-8-2 tank kit if any one has one they would like to sell

Regards

John

John

Turning smokebox doors is one of the easier turning jobs in 2mm modelling, I'm seem to recall several recent articles in 2mm magazine talking about it in various loco contruction articles. I think there's a recent T9 article that had all those catches on them.

 

Indeed Peter Wright wrote some classic papers in the magazine in the 1990's. They ought to appear in the archive index. I think the smokebox door one was about December 1991 but I could be wrong (as I often am these days!!). His one on smokebox doors was also reprinted I believe in the booklet "Loco Bits and Pieces" as chapter I recall "Putting a Bold Face on it" ?

 

There's also a useful article in Roche and Templer's book "Building Model Locomotives" page 47. They say "it is a great temptation to use these (commercial ones) as they are not neat enough. Although here they are talking 7mm scale although the principle is the same.

 

Guy Williams in his "Model Locomotive Construction in 4mm Scale" does a very detailed description on making smokebox doors somewhere about the middle of the book, the chapter on "Boilers" I suspect. He too comments something to the effect that "few castings make a very good job of the centre fittngs".

 

Certainly if there's nothing suitable "of the peg" then a "tailored" job will look better and will be enormously satisfying. And you don't need a fancy lathe, my first turning was done with a small pin chuck glued onto a hefty 12v motor shaft, the motor fixed to a board with a stand to rest a tool on and a foot switch made out a spray can top with press switch glued to a piece of wood to keep it stable on the floor.

 

Only a thought, meant to be helpful and encouraging.

 

Oli

Edited by oily
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 gents what do I spray on to this to stick it all down

This is the first time I've ever done this so help ,ideas would be welcome

Regards

John

 

I assume you mean the ballast?

If so,prepare to be bored out of your mind

Step one, get a small pipette and place a drop of water mixed with a drop of washing up liquid on all of the ballast, then repeat using a 50/50mix of water and pva plus a drop of washing up liquid. Do all of this without shifting any of the ballast out of place (good luck with that) allow to dry and then make good as required.

Top tip, take your time, be patient, do small amounts at a time to alleviate the boredom.

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I don't know what make of ballast you have used, but using the woodland scenics extra fine variety I now just use their S191 senic glue (shake well before use) applied with the pipettes Revell sell (packs of 6). It runs like water and applying it along the outer edges of the ballast allows it to slowly absorb into it and spread without disturbing it. Once the ballast is wetted it stays in place and you can drop more on it without problem, so slowly moving along. As Stuart says, it's a slow process, but it pays not to rush it.

 

One other aspect is that I have found you only really need minimal amounts of ballast, and I just sprinkle a bit on by hand before brushing into place. It's far too easy to lay too much which then hides the gap under the rail of the bullhead code 40. You can always add a bit more later if it's not enough but it's not easy to remove too much I discovered. With easitrac I now also remove the ties between the sleepers with a scalpel once the track base is glued down because these can show after ballasting otherwise, and also stop the gap being there.

 

Have fun!

 

Izzy

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Once you've finished, give the whole lot a bloody good scrub with a toothbrush as this will remove any ballast stuck to the rails and sleepers and will show up any weak spots

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  • 1 month later...

G'day, my name is Tim and I am new to this forum.

 

I am looking for a small, spoked wheel and hope this is the right place to get help. I am considering to build an Australian 153 hp Walker RM model. Everything is still in the planing phase. At the moment I am checking the waters from where I can get parts for the build.

 

What I need is a spoked wheel with 10 spokes and 5.7 mm diameter (can be 6mm thou) like this one

 

 
Who can tell me if such a wheel is available and where I can buy it from ?
 
Thank you for your help. Tim
Edited by wintimtim
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I'm not sure if I 'sent' my post yesterday correctly as it has not yet appeared. I'll repeat it here.

 

From memory I believe the Asssociation shop used to stock a 6mm 10-spoke wagon wheel many years ago. The ones to ask are Jim Watt or Phil Copleston.

I think they were made by the late Cliff Newall (?)  If you can source any from members' gloat boxes be sure to check for wobble and concentricity - a problem of the times! In the meantime I will see if I can dig out the appropriate shop price list (1980's/90's) and let you know - but the items must be long gone!

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Open spokes did you say? Maybe not a problem..........!

 

rm20ro.jpg

 

Is this for N gauge track or are you building it to finescale standards? You may find the thin flanges on 2mm finescale wheels cause problems on N gauge track.

Edited by Echo
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Well, that would be the 3rd type of wheel I have seen now on these 153 hp Walker Railmotors, thanks for the picture. Yes, it will be used on hand laid track, more or less just a diorama. I found the wheels on the 2mm website and I am in contact with a guy called Nigel.

 

Thanks for your help. Tim

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what about using one of our loco tender or loco pony wheels? there ought to be one near for that? possibly not the open spoke ones though.

 

Hello Richard, when you say 'our' to whom are you referring to ? 2mm Association ?

 

cheers, Tim

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It is the 2mm Finescale section of the special interests area which might give you a clue.

 

Jerry

What ? Sir, I know it's the 2mm section but I wasn't aware that the 2mm Association is the only union/club which manufactures these wheels. I came here to ask a question and got an answer to use the 2mm Association 6mm wheel and after that someone else posts 'what about using our loco tender or loco pony wheels' so I have had to ask who is 'our'. I am really sorry if I bored you with my question and my ignorance Sir and I will try my best not to slam the door behind me when I'm leaving.

 

Regards, Tim Winton, Christchurch, New Zealand  

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What ? Sir, I know it's the 2mm section but I wasn't aware that the 2mm Association is the only union/club which manufactures these wheels. I came here to ask a question and got an answer to use the 2mm Association 6mm wheel and after that someone else posts 'what about using our loco tender or loco pony wheels' so I have had to ask who is 'our'. I am really sorry if I bored you with my question and my ignorance Sir and I will try my best not to slam the door behind me when I'm leaving.

 

Regards, Tim Winton, Christchurch, New Zealand

 

Not sure why you are throwing your toys out of the pram but sarcasm toward people who are trying to be helpful rarely encourages them to do it again. Total of five posts and you have managed to get in a strop, good going!

 

Jerry

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Regrettably, trade support in 2mm is virtually non existent, some cottage industries. The focal point is the 2mm Association.

 

To get access to the 2mm catalogue means joining the association, which is quite a modest fee.

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