Any Question Answered

[Izzy]

Is there any slop on the centre axle? As I recall those non-geared axles were made to fit into a Peak as the trailing wheels, and have a smaller axle diameter then the geared ones.

 

Chris

 

 Hi Chris,

 

Just had a look, to double-check what I have done, and the thinking behind it. I thought the non-geared had been produced for the 40/45/46's, but wasn't quite sure.

 

The originals have 1.5mm axles throughout of course, and you are right in that the non-geared axle is 1.0mm with a centre shoulder of about 1.2mm. They are sloppy of course when pushed upwards but not when the spring pushes them down into the groove in the keeper-plate. Since there isn't any issues like derailments I took the view that the slop wasn't a problem that needed a solution above that provided by the spring, i.e. trying to fit a bearing/shim of some kind. I thought that this could lead to axle resistance and non-turning of the wheels/axle and be counter-productive.

 

Taken all round, just turning the original wheels would seem an easier option for some, but as I say I prefer the steel rims and correct tyre profile where this is possible as it gives more sideplay of the wheel on the rail, which I need because of the small radius track I am generally required to use. When I get the time I'll machine the wheels in the blue one and see what difference it makes. Should there be a clear benefit one way or the other I'll post the details.

 

Izzy

[Schizoid]

Probably a stupid question, but what parts do I need to convert a Farish Class 08 to finescale?

[Donw]

Probably a stupid question, but what parts do I need to convert a Farish Class 08 to finescale?

 

If you are an association member there are two useful files accessible either from the members area or the vag group in the files section subsection etched chassis diagrams, one give the 08 chassis arrangement the other lists the parts needed for the various etched chassis.

If you are a member but have difficulty accessing the files PM me with your email address.

Don

[2mm Andy]

If you are an association member there are two useful files accessible either from the members area or the vag group in the files section subsection etched chassis diagrams, one give the 08 chassis arrangement the other lists the parts needed for the various etched chassis.

If you are a member but have difficulty accessing the files PM me with your email address.

Don

 

Actually Don the files are also accessible from the shop 3 listings on the main website as well;

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/info/?prodnum=h-etched-loco-chassis-kits

 

Andy

[Schizoid]

Thanks for the information. Looks like quite a complex operation. I think I may need to choose something else for a first conversion project. I sent in a membership application a few days ago.

[Chris Higgs]

Thanks for the information. Looks like quite a complex operation. I think I may need to choose something else for a first conversion project. I sent in a membership application a few days ago.

 

It's not the easiest. The outside frames make it non-trivial. I haven't heard of anyone getting the existing Farish wheels turned down as an alternative, but it may have been done.

 

You might find the Class 03/04 simpler. You can also buy bodies for the blue 04 from BR lines so avoiding purchasing a whole loco.

 

But the simplest conversions of all are to buy a Farish bogie diesel (e.g. Class 20, 24, 25, 31 or 47) and some drop-in replacement wheelsets. All done in under half an hour, and pretty much guaranteed to run well. Oh, and you can always put the old N gauge wheels back if you decide 2FS is not for you.

 

Following that is the new Farish Jinty, where the conversion pack also involves dropping in replacement  wheels, but you still have to handle the quartering, adding the coupling rods and so on.

 

Chris

Edited November 26, 2015 by Chris Higgs

[Izzy]

I converted an Farish 08 by machining the wheels. Although the loco runs very nicely It was not an experience I would want to repeat, thanks to the way the outside cranks plug into the wheels for quartering, and can't be used without modification since they are rather over-width anyway (good for ripping up platform edges though.......). One day I will complete the replacement etched chassis for it.

 

As Chris suggests a Farish 24/25 Bo-Bo diesel with drop-in's is really the only sensible way to go. I doubt you'll ever better the performance.

 

Izzy

[Schizoid]

Okay. What wheels will I need to convert a bogie diesel? Can finescale wheels be bought from other sources than the Association?

[Donw]

Okay. What wheels will I need to convert a bogie diesel? Can finescale wheels be bought from other sources than the Association?

 

On the association website under products-shop3- Diesel/DMU Wheel-sets there is a blue info icon before the words that will bring up some info for you and underneath the words are the listings for the wheel-sets. I cannot be specific as you need to check the diesel you have to work out what wheel-sets need gears.

 

Don

[Chris Higgs]

Okay. What wheels will I need to convert a bogie diesel? Can finescale wheels be bought from other sources than the Association?

 

First choose your diesel. Then dependent on the wheel diameter it is likely to either 3-070 or 3-071. Take a look at http://2mm.org.uk/products/drop-in-wheels.html

 

You might prefer to do a DMU - then you have a complete train.

 

No-one else make wheels to our standards.

Edited November 30, 2015 by Chris Higgs

[cornish trains jez]

Hi everyone,

 

I received my new wheel sets yesterday and I decided to replace the ones in my Farish Mk2a (retooled version). I'm using 14.80mm axles on 6mm plain disc wheels. I popped out one of the bogies and removed the Farish offerings. Then added in the new wheelsets. Weirdly, the inner bogie wheel set fits perfectly, however, the outer wheels set bows the bogie sides outwards and hence doesn't spin nicely. It's really odd and I'm considering a shorter axle for the other bogie wheel set.

Has anyone else come across this?

 

For reference, the 14.80mm axles fit perfectly in my Peco CDA China clay wagons.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[Caley Jim]

. Weirdly, the inner bogie wheel set fits perfectly, however, the outer wheels set bows the bogie sides outwards and hence doesn't spin nicely.  

 

Have you compared the length of the new axles with the ones you took out? If there's not much in it, i believe you can solve the problem by giving the bogie sides a squeeze in with the axle in place.  this will drive the pinpoints further into the plastic and when you release the sides, the axle will spin better.  I've never had to do this myself, never having rewheeled any rtr vehicles.

Jim

[cornish trains jez]

Have you compared the length of the new axles with the ones you took out? If there's not much in it, i believe you can solve the problem by giving the bogie sides a squeeze in with the axle in place.  this will drive the pinpoints further into the plastic and when you release the sides, the axle will spin better.  I've never had to do this myself, never having rewheeled any rtr vehicles.

Jim

Thank you Jim. I'll give it a go and see how it goes.

[Izzy]

Hi everyone,

 

I received my new wheel sets yesterday and I decided to replace the ones in my Farish Mk2a (retooled version). I'm using 14.80mm axles on 6mm plain disc wheels. I popped out one of the bogies and removed the Farish offerings. Then added in the new wheelsets. Weirdly, the inner bogie wheel set fits perfectly, however, the outer wheels set bows the bogie sides outwards and hence doesn't spin nicely. It's really odd and I'm considering a shorter axle for the other bogie wheel set.

Has anyone else come across this?

 

For reference, the 14.80mm axles fit perfectly in my Peco CDA China clay wagons.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

A factor to take into account besides the actual axle length is that the coning angle differs between axle sizes, and this may account for the lack of free running with some wheelsets. Basically the 12.25mm & 14.8mm axles have a less sharp angle than the other sizes. 14.8's were originally meant for Peco wagons and match their standard length and coning angle - the same as used by the standard 2FS 12.25 axles and pin-point brass bearings, while the other sizes have a 'sharper' angle, the 15.2mm being the normal/original GF length and matching coning angle - the 14.2's and 13.7's also have this coning angle.

 

When Farish got clever by using different axle lengths this of course produced the situation we now have, wanting different lengths with coning that might not match. What is worse perhaps is that the coning angle seems to vary with every new Farish wagon you handle. Some lengths seem to work quite okay, others don't. There is nothing consistent about this i.e. it's related to the axle length.

 

Jim's suggestion is perhaps the best/only way of overcoming this issue for direct replacement wheelsets i.e. without using standard 12.25's and brass bearings and fitting them into the chassis by some method.

 

Izzy

[Chris Higgs]

A factor to take into account besides the actual axle length is that the coning angle differs between axle sizes, and this may account for the lack of free running with some wheelsets. Basically the 12.25mm & 14.8mm axles have a less sharp angle than the other sizes. 14.8's were originally meant for Peco wagons and match their standard length and coning angle - the same as used by the standard 2FS 12.25 axles and pin-point brass bearings, while the other sizes have a 'sharper' angle, the 15.2mm being the normal/original GF length and matching coning angle - the 14.2's and 13.7's also have this coning angle.

 

When Farish got clever by using different axle lengths this of course produced the situation we now have, wanting different lengths with coning that might not match. What is worse perhaps is that the coning angle seems to vary with every new Farish wagon you handle. Some lengths seem to work quite okay, others don't. There is nothing consistent about this i.e. it's related to the axle length.

 

Jim's suggestion is perhaps the best/only way of overcoming this issue for direct replacement wheelsets i.e. without using standard 12.25's and brass bearings and fitting them into the chassis by some method.

 

Izzy

 

Yes, I would have used the 15.2mm axles with the sharper pinpoint - assuming that  the original Farish wheels are the original long style. I have never found particularly good running with the 14.8s, although they were designed for Peco wagons and may well work better there. 

[cornish trains jez]

Hi ,

 

I've tried squeezing the bogie sides in to try and bed the axle in better but unfortunately it hasn't worked. I think I'm going to buy a selection of shorter axles and see which ones fit best. I've also pushed the wheels out of position so I'll need to buy a back to back gauge to re-adjust them.

 

For reference, the 14.80mm also fit nicely into my Farish PAA Tullis Russell wagons.

 

I'll keep everyone posted on which axles fit best the Dapol MK3's and Farish MK2's.

 

Thank you for your input and ideas on this.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[Valentin]

The replacement chassis (by Chris Higgs) for the Grafar (Poole) J94 / Hunslet Austerity 0-6-0ST.

 

 

The fret contains 6 foot-plate brackets to be fitted to the provided slots in the frames which I soldered but I am not sure I did it the correct way:

 

 

Could anyone advise, please.

 

Thank you!

[Caley Jim]

Could anyone advise, please.

I'm not familiar with the loco, but it looks logical to me.  I presume there was a tab on the bracket to locate in a slot in the frames and they certainly wouldn't be the other way up and there would be no point in them going to the inside!

 

Jim

[Valentin]

Thank you, Jim. Yes, the bracket has a tab which I located into the slot before soldering. I was worried that I have to unsolder all 6 and turn them upside down.

 

I asked this as the body is quite high now on the chassis. After going ahead a bit more with the building I will post a few more photos as I have a couple more questions to ask.

[Ian Smith]

Valentin,

I too am unfamiliar with the J94 / chassis kit, however looking that the bracket at the top of your picture it does look like it may not be fully pushed down into the slot in the frame before it was soldered in place (there is a small slot at the bottom of the bracket that can be seen).  Is it possible that you have aligned the brackets with the top of the frame rather than pushing fully down as I can imagine that that would make the body sit too high?

 

Ian

[Izzy]

 

The J94 does have a high footplate with deep bufferbeams, and there is a side elevation drawing on the web with which to double check measurements, but I'm sure Chris will be along to offer advice.

 

Izzy

[Chris Higgs]

The replacement chassis (by Chris Higgs) for the Grafar (Poole) J94 / Hunslet Austerity 0-6-0ST.

 

 

The fret contains 6 foot-plate brackets to be fitted to the provided slots in the frames which I soldered but I am not sure I did it the correct way:

 

 

Could anyone advise, please.

 

Thank you!

 

It's been a while. But I think what I designed here was for use with a scale thickness footplate - some people have used the Grafar body (or the alternative whitemetal kit) with a brass/nickel silver footplate. The footplate on the Grafar model is much too thick (1.2mm when it should be 0.45mm). So the brackets cannot really be used with it. You could try soldering them on further down by either filing the tab down or off completely. However from the CAD it looks like they would then foul the wheel flanges.

 

So all in all leaving them off is probably the easiest option.

 

Chris

 

Or perhaps you fancy filing the Grafar footplate thinner. Then again, perhaps not...

[DavidLong]

There's a comment on the etch drawing that says that the brackets are not for use with the Farish body. I had assumed that there was a possibility of a short across the metal footplate but Chris has given the real reason in his note above.

 

David

[Valentin]

Thank you all for the detailed explanations.

 

I've just had another look on the diagram and indeed there is the note: "Footplate strengtheners (not for Farish body)"; reading it before would've saved time...

 

Regards,

[Chris Higgs]

I had assumed that there was a possibility of a short across the metal footplate ..

 

That too.

 

Chris