Any Question Answered

[Donw]

6 hours ago, Argos said:

A slight cock-up in planning has meant I have a sharper then planned curve on my Irish Broad gauge (10.5mm gauge) layout currently under construction.

 

I was always planning to use gauge widening as the minimum "standard" curve I had design to was 20" so well below the recommended 28" minimum in the society's track standards:

 

For the 20" curve I was intending to use the 0.1mm 0.004" widening recommended in the table above.

My sharper curve is down to 16", should I be widening beyond this or stick to 0.1mm widening?

 

Or is it a case of some trial and error required?

 

I dont recommend the error bit but some trials to see what works make sense. Some slight easements into the curves makes a lot of difference where couplings are concerned..

 

Don

[VRBroadgauge]

17 hours ago, Argos said:

A slight cock-up in planning has meant I have a sharper then planned curve on my Irish Broad gauge (10.5mm gauge) layout currently under construction.

 

I was always planning to use gauge widening as the minimum "standard" curve I had design to was 20" so well below the recommended 28" minimum in the society's track standards:

 

For the 20" curve I was intending to use the 0.1mm 0.004" widening recommended in the table above.

My sharper curve is down to 16", should I be widening beyond this or stick to 0.1mm widening?

 

Or is it a case of some trial and error required?

 

I've tested my tri-axle rolling stock down to a 24' curve which works beautifully. I always use tri-gauges which give you an automatic gauge widening in curves. Never had a problem. I've been using the micro engineering code 40 Hon3 versions which work very well.

[yaxxbarl]

What are people's thoughts on painting coupling rods?

 

I have tended to put on as thin a coat of dirty black as to get away with but I am wondering about something more akin to a well oiled but well maintained look.

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Argos]

On 21/05/2023 at 03:43, VRBroadgauge said:

 

I've tested my tri-axle rolling stock down to a 24' curve which works beautifully. I always use tri-gauges which give you an automatic gauge widening in curves. Never had a problem. I've been using the micro engineering code 40 Hon3 versions which work very well.

Thanks VRBroadgauge,

 

I have looked at those gauges before but with postage and import tax I'm looked at in excess of £25 which feels a bit rich.

 

I might try and make my own, or fudge something up using my crossing nose gauges and a shim.

[ShadowinLinby]

I use the std cost of a packet of fags to get over the value - at around £12 a packet in the UK £25 is about two packets which some people will go through in a two days. Triangular gauges will last you a life time. £25 for a lifetimes use look better value.

 

ChrisB 

[Sithlord75]

2 hours ago, ShadowinLinby said:

I use the std cost of a packet of fags to get over the value - at around £12 a packet in the UK £25 is about two packets which some people will go through in a two days. Triangular gauges will last you a life time. £25 for a lifetimes use look better value.

 

ChrisB 

Whilst not using the fag packet economic index I agree.  I’ve only in the last few years (and I “blame” you Chris!) moved on from my “modelling on a uni student budget” mentality.  My time is worth a lot more - more so the older I get and you don’t know how much is left in the hourglass.  So I’d say unless you’re sure you can knock up some accurate gauges in 25 quids worth of time and materials, it’s a good investment.

[ShadowinLinby]

Guilty as charged Kevin

 

ChrisB

[VRBroadgauge]

12 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

Whilst not using the fag packet economic index I agree.  I’ve only in the last few years (and I “blame” you Chris!) moved on from my “modelling on a uni student budget” mentality.  My time is worth a lot more - more so the older I get and you don’t know how much is left in the hourglass.  So I’d say unless you’re sure you can knock up some accurate gauges in 25 quids worth of time and materials, it’s a good investment.

Add to that is the knowledge that you're getting an accurate measurement first time every time. Saves time, saves what little sanity we have left as 2mm modellers.

[nick_bastable]

sanity and 2mm modellers should never be used in the same sentence

[Caley Jim]

54 minutes ago, nick_bastable said:

sanity and 2mm modellers should never be used in the same sentence

Not unless the 's' word is prefixed by 'in'.

 

Jim

[Donw]

I was taalking to Stewart Hine on the 2mm stand at Central hall in 1962. He said there are no wheels, no motors, no gears although you can adapt some clock parts. That might seem insane but the Grooves Rydale Layout was superb. 

 

Don

[Argos]

And what is missing from the "value" conversation is my half Yorkshire half Scottish genetics....... 

[Izzy]

On 22/05/2023 at 07:57, Argos said:

I might try and make my own, or fudge something up using my crossing nose gauges and a shim.

 

An alternative to a 3-point gauge is a slab one. Will do the same job. Just a rectangle of thickish material with the diemensions based around the 3-point, which in itself is an Isosceles triangle. Much cheaper to make, for while investing in a 3-point seems worthwhile if you've lots of tightly curved track to make for just a short length it does seem overkill at £25. It can also be used at a normal gauge check when used horizontally or vertically.

 

Bob

[Sithlord75]

Currently looking at the roof furniture on a Midland D418 milk/fruit van.  Torpedo vents check (they are on the diagram helpfully) but ideas on representing the oil lamps which aren’t?  The photo in the Essery book isn’t great and having looked at other vehicles with apparently similar arrangements I’m none the wiser.

[2mm Dabbler]

2 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

Currently looking at the roof furniture on a Midland D418 milk/fruit van.  Torpedo vents check (they are on the diagram helpfully) but ideas on representing the oil lamps which aren’t?  The photo in the Essery book isn’t great and having looked at other vehicles with apparently similar arrangements I’m none the wiser.

Compound2632 has shown the building of a D418 in the "D299 Appreciation Thread"; this page has a nice overhead view:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/113035-more-pre-grouping-wagons-in-4mm-the-d299-appreciation-thread/page/92/#comment-3904236

 

There are other photographs as well in the thread, hope this helps.

[queensquare]

2 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

Currently looking at the roof furniture on a Midland D418 milk/fruit van.  Torpedo vents check (they are on the diagram helpfully) but ideas on representing the oil lamps which aren’t?  The photo in the Essery book isn’t great and having looked at other vehicles with apparently similar arrangements I’m none the wiser.

As usual, my representation of lamp tops is more a sketch than strictly accurate but I’ve used a small washer with a pin through the middle - either a Peco track pin or a lace pin - whichever embeds itself in the end of finger first when rummaging through the tin they live in!

 

Jerry

[nick_bastable]

37 minutes ago, 2mm Dabbler said:

Compound2632 has shown the building of a D418 in the "D299 Appreciation Thread"; this page has a nice overhead view:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/113035-more-pre-grouping-wagons-in-4mm-the-d299-appreciation-thread/page/92/#comment-3904236

 

There are other photographs as well in the thread, hope this helps.

may be a blind alley as I do not know the original but might one of EtchedPixels via Github be of use ?

 

Nick B

[Compound2632]

40 minutes ago, 2mm Dabbler said:

Compound2632 has shown the building of a D418 in the "D299 Appreciation Thread"; this page has a nice overhead view:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/113035-more-pre-grouping-wagons-in-4mm-the-d299-appreciation-thread/page/92/#comment-3904236

 

There are other photographs as well in the thread, hope this helps.

 

Kind of you to mention that. The roof furniture there was just what came with the kit (4mm scale, from 51L / Wizard). But as you're 2 mm FS here, you'll be wanting working oil lamps.

 

This extract from a Derby C&W drawing of 1882 shows the arrangement of the lamp hole, the bung that sat in it when the lamp wasn't in place, and the stand for the bung when the lamp was in use:

 

 

[Crop from scan of Drg, 547, 30 ft close-coupled first, Midland Railway Study Centre item 88-D0001.]

 

These are the fittings to be seen in the official photo of one of these D418 vans, built in 1893. It is likely that this shows the condition as built; implying oil lamps. I'm not at all sure whether these van were ever given gas lamps; the whitemetal representations of lamps on my model seem to most closely resemble the type of gas lamp used from c. 1892 onwards - but my model is devoid of gas cylinders or piping! Photographs of roofs are rare but the ones there are show that the bung stands remained in place - the gas lamps were removable. 

 

Torpedo ventilators were not fitted as built. The drawing for the square-panelled D419 vans [Drg. 1405, Midland Railway Study Centre item 88-D0748, has the torpedo ventilator positions added in red ink, the amendment being dated 7/7/04.

 

In other words, my roof is all wrong for my 1902 date, which is annoying because I was pleased with how the rainstrips turned out!

 

It seems to me that the diagrams show the condition of the vehicles at the time the diagrams were drawn, which I think is sometime between c. 1907 and c. 1914, almost certainly not earlier.

 

Sorry, not much help!

 

[Sithlord75]

10 hours ago, nick_bastable said:

may be a blind alley as I do not know the original but might one of EtchedPixels via Github be of use ?

 

Nick B

Hadn't thought of that Nick - I'm using EP torpedos but they'll run out eventually.  I've drawn one up and it works great on a van roof when the whole model is printed but on it's own its a bit on the edge of my printer.

[Sithlord75]

10 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Kind of you to mention that. The roof furniture there was just what came with the kit (4mm scale, from 51L / Wizard). But as you're 2 mm FS here, you'll be wanting working oil lamps.

 

This extract from a Derby C&W drawing of 1882 shows the arrangement of the lamp hole, the bung that sat in it when the lamp wasn't in place, and the stand for the bung when the lamp was in use:

 

 

[Crop from scan of Drg, 547, 30 ft close-coupled first, Midland Railway Study Centre item 88-D0001.]

 

These are the fittings to be seen in the official photo of one of these D418 vans, built in 1893. It is likely that this shows the condition as built; implying oil lamps. I'm not at all sure whether these van were ever given gas lamps; the whitemetal representations of lamps on my model seem to most closely resemble the type of gas lamp used from c. 1892 onwards - but my model is devoid of gas cylinders or piping! Photographs of roofs are rare but the ones there are show that the bung stands remained in place - the gas lamps were removable. 

 

Torpedo ventilators were not fitted as built. The drawing for the square-panelled D419 vans [Drg. 1405, Midland Railway Study Centre item 88-D0748, has the torpedo ventilator positions added in red ink, the amendment being dated 7/7/04.

 

In other words, my roof is all wrong for my 1902 date, which is annoying because I was pleased with how the rainstrips turned out!

 

It seems to me that the diagrams show the condition of the vehicles at the time the diagrams were drawn, which I think is sometime between c. 1907 and c. 1914, almost certainly not earlier.

 

Sorry, not much help!

 

Thanks for the advice Stephen.  I don't think the current Environmental Laws in Queensland will let me run working oil lamps so I'll unfortunately have to pass.  As the only previous information I had on the 418 was that a) it wasn't the 419 (!) and was the diagram available on the LMS Societies website, the pictures of yours and the information is very helpful.  I have realised I should have put partitions on the inside (and you can see the length of the vehicle through the vents so that's a bit of a bother since the roof is soldered on) and foot steps, handrails, lamp irons and a bunch of other things. 

 

PS - haven't forgotten the MR cattle wagon fleet - still on the hunt for the correct chassis, presently unobtainable from the 2mmSA.

Edited June 1, 2023 by Sithlord75
spelling

[nick_bastable]

45 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

Hadn't thought of that Nick - I'm using EP torpedos but they'll run out eventually.  I've drawn one up and it works great on a van roof when the whole model is printed but on it's own its a bit on the edge of my printer.

the new Association torpedo vents are very good if a bu&&er to fit

 

Nick B

[VRBroadgauge]

8 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

PS - haven't forgotten the MR cattle wagon fleet - still on the hunt for the correct chassis, presently unobtainable from the 2mmSA.

Put it on the list?

[MrSimon]

Hi all,

After two hours of rainy afternoon here in London I’ve got this far on my Fairburn:

 

Have I got the combination lever the right way round? It goes inwards from top to bottom rather than outwards - is that right?

 

Many thanks

Simon

[Nig H]

Hi,

 

Tony Heywood was asking me about the Association Farish Black 5 chassis kit. He wanted to know how to link the worm to the worm wheel. Also, how are the loco and tender chassis to be linked, and what is the intention regarding motors? Something mounted in the tender on the frame spacers?

 

Apologies if the answers are already there, sometimes I can't see for looking!

 

Nigel Hunt

[Caley Jim]

Bob Jones is the man to answer these questions. He designed the kit. 

 

Jim