Any Question Answered

[Ian Lilley]

Postscript to my 64xx query,the replacement muffs duly arrived after the mandatory postal delay and fit neatly into the recesses in the the bearings,giving me a working chassis without any need for modification.I can only assume that I distorted the original muffs whilst drilling air bleed holes in them,such that they would not fit into the bearings,a little more care with the new ones seems to have paid dividends!Thanks again to those who provided guidance,

Ian Lilley

[65179]

On 17/12/2022 at 00:10, CF MRC said:

Does anyone know who produces North Eastern transfers for NER tender locomotives? Also etched cab number plates for 2400?

Fox make NER crests. 
 

Thanks

Tim

 

Have you had any joy with this query Tim? Bob, Mick or Alan Pearson are probably the most likely to know a source of these.

 

Simon

[2mm Andy]

20 minutes ago, 65179 said:

 

Have you had any joy with this query Tim? Bob, Mick or Alan Pearson are probably the most likely to know a source of these.

 

Simon

 

Light Railway Stores do custom etched NER numberplates in 2mm scale;

https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/custom-etched-products/products/npp-412

I have no experience of them personally, so don't know what they are like, but their etches in larger scales are well-regarded. I think Bob Jones might have done 2mm scale custom numberplates on request too?

 

A chap called Phil Smith produced some North Eastern loco transfers quite a few years ago now. They were printed digitally IIRC, and used to be advertised on the 2mm website 'Small Suppliers' section, but disappeared a while back, presumably when they ceased to be available.

 

Andy

[queensquare]

35 minutes ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

Light Railway Stores do custom etched NER numberplates in 2mm scale;

https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/custom-etched-products/products/npp-412

I have no experience of them personally, so don't know what they are like, but their etches in larger scales are well-regarded. I think Bob Jones might have done 2mm scale custom numberplates on request too?

 

A chap called Phil Smith produced some North Eastern loco transfers quite a few years ago now. They were printed digitally IIRC, and used to be advertised on the 2mm website 'Small Suppliers' section, but disappeared a while back, presumably when they ceased to be available.

 

Andy

I picked  up a bunch of these a while back and had hoped I might have some North Eastern ones going spare but unfortunately I don’t. I do have several sets of North Staffs transfers if anybody is in need! 
 

Jerry

[CF MRC]

Fortunately, Bob does indeed have some Methix style NER transfers (dating back to 1990)  These will also be useful

for the Dynamometer Car, when I get my hands on one. 

He had also kindly offered to make the plates. However, as I remember now, LRS did my Valour cab-side plates - they were excellent- so that will save Bob the hassle. 

 

Tim

[tapdieuk]

Balance weights for the L&Y class 23, having soldered crank pins in the wheels the balance weights are next to be fitted if needed 

From 'An Illustrated History of LMS Locomotives  Vol 2' 

It shows the locos with weights fitted and not fitted. While they are in LMS and BR condition. I am looking to finish the loco in L&Y condition, what would be correct? 

Will

 

[Nig H]

1 hour ago, tapdieuk said:

Balance weights for the L&Y class 23, having soldered crank pins in the wheels the balance weights are next to be fitted if needed 

From 'An Illustrated History of LMS Locomotives  Vol 2' 

It shows the locos with weights fitted and not fitted. While they are in LMS and BR condition. I am looking to finish the loco in L&Y condition, what would be correct? 

Will

 

The Kitson and Sharp Stewart builds had balance weights  (p 82, L & Y Rly Locomotives, Barry Lane).

 

Nigel Hunt

[stuin21990]

Hi, I've recently joined the 2mm Scale Association and I've purchased their introductory waggon kit. My question is what solder and flux will I need to put it together? I've read a beffuddeling amount of information on the topic but I seem to be getting a little overwhelmed 😆. Thanks 

[Caley Jim]

Carr's 188 solder paint is good, or you can use plumbers solder with either Carr's flux or 'Fluxite' resin flux.  Whatever you do DO NOT try lead free solder it is hopeless for assembly work.   The basic requirements for soldering are clean metal, flux, a decent sized bit and plenty heat (and solder of course!😀).

 

Jim

[davknigh]

3 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

Carr's 188 solder paint is good, or you can use plumbers solder with either Carr's flux or 'Fluxite' resin flux.  Whatever you do DO NOT try lead free solder it is hopeless for assembly work.   The basic requirements for soldering are clean metal, flux, a decent sized bit and plenty heat (and solder of course!😀).

 

Jim

May I respectfully add ‘good fit’ to your list of soldering requirements?  The job goes so much better for me when that condition is satisfied.

 

Cheers,

 

David

[bigboyboris]

Is there any consensus on what kind of alternate couplings people generally prefer, in 2mm? The standard N rapidos being ugly and long and not very well suited to automatic uncoupling on a shunting layout, to my perception.

[Donw]

The favourite amongst 2millers is D&Gs.

 

Don

[2mm Andy]

31 minutes ago, bigboyboris said:

Is there any consensus on what kind of alternate couplings people generally prefer, in 2mm? The standard N rapidos being ugly and long and not very well suited to automatic uncoupling on a shunting layout, to my perception.

There is some information on couplings here; 

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/2FS_Manual/index.html

 

As Don has mentioned, DGs seem to be the most popular type of coupling in 2mm. There were also some similar ones known as B&Bs which are mentioned in the DG article linked above.

 

Andy

[Ian Smeeton]

Has anyone attempted a conversion of the new Rapido Metro-Vick class 28 yet?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Izzy]

22 minutes ago, Ian Smeeton said:

Has anyone attempted a conversion of the new Rapido Metro-Vick class 28 yet?

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

 Not sure how easy it would be. There appears to be a combination of traction tyres on some wheels alongside pin-point axle current collection. Spare non-tyre wheelsets plus lathe work seems essential I guess.

 

Bob

[MrSimon]

Hi all,

Can I just check: is it the 8mm carrying wheels for a black 5 tender?  Also, would the new machines gearbox block work in the 3-652 replacement chassis or would I be better off building it with separate worms/gears?

Many thanks

Simon

[Yorkshire Square]

23 minutes ago, MrSimon said:

Hi all,

Can I just check: is it the 8mm carrying wheels for a black 5 tender?  Also, would the new machines gearbox block work in the 3-652 replacement chassis or would I be better off building it with separate worms/gears?

Many thanks

Simon

I think the tender is 8.5mm. If you can wait, I've just ordered printed centres for Black 5 specific wheels - pony truck, drivers and tender. These have the distinctive bevel on the rim. Should be in the shop in March. I hope!

[Curlew]

Hi, could I please ask if the 3-275 Loco Driving Wheel Quartering Tool is gauge specific, or can it be used for narrower/wider gauges than 9.42mm? Probably a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway. Many thanks.

[GER_Jon]

23 minutes ago, Curlew said:

Hi, could I please ask if the 3-275 Loco Driving Wheel Quartering Tool is gauge specific, or can it be used for narrower/wider gauges than 9.42mm? Probably a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway. Many thanks.

The answer is that the tool is not gauge specific. Gauge is set using a separate button gauge or calipers or as per personal choice.

Jon (shop 3)

[MisterT]

Hi All, I was browsing the the Shops page on the 2mm website earlier, and my interest was piqued by the following new product description:

"3-125 - Crankpin: Flanged: 0.5mm dia: 0.75mm Base for Mk6 and later Wheels: Turned Brass.
These are designed for use with the forthcoming Mk6 driving wheels and are not suitable for use with Mk5 or earlier wheels."

 

Maybe I have missed or overlooked a recent announcement, but what are/will be the Mk6 driving wheels?

 

Thanks,

Ed

[2mm Andy]

12 minutes ago, MisterT said:

Hi All, I was browsing the the Shops page on the 2mm website earlier, and my interest was piqued by the following new product description:

"3-125 - Crankpin: Flanged: 0.5mm dia: 0.75mm Base for Mk6 and later Wheels: Turned Brass.
These are designed for use with the forthcoming Mk6 driving wheels and are not suitable for use with Mk5 or earlier wheels."

 

Maybe I have missed or overlooked a recent announcement, but what are/will be the Mk6 driving wheels?

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

From http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/info/?prodnum=h-loco-driving-wheels;

 

"Mk6 Driving wheels will start to be released from 2023 onwards. These are identical to the Mk5 variant except that the crankpin hole will be drilled at 0.75mm rather than the 0.5mm of the Mk5s. Different crankpins are available to suit the two variants. Please order to match your wheels."

 

Andy

[MisterT]

Thanks Andy, Sorry, I didn't notice that. Ed

Edited January 11, 2023 by MisterT

[yaxxbarl]

On 04/01/2023 at 21:57, Izzy said:

 

 Not sure how easy it would be. There appears to be a combination of traction tyres on some wheels alongside pin-point axle current collection. Spare non-tyre wheelsets plus lathe work seems essential I guess.

 

Bob

 

Still got my thinking cap on on this - whilst it does use a stub axle & muffs arrangement a la Dapol the atubs are 1.2mm diameter, so it either needs a new muff with a suitable gear or a new stub axle.

 

The muff itself is quite narrow in diameter so if we are to go down that route we should be using the narrow bogie muffs as a starting point and I've no idea what we'd do for a gear.

 

To me it seems a pin-point stub axle with the stub turned down to 1.2mm diameter is the way to go.

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Izzy]

16 minutes ago, yaxxbarl said:

 

Still got my thinking cap on on this - whilst it does use a stub axle & muffs arrangement a la Dapol the atubs are 1.2mm diameter, so it either needs a new muff with a suitable gear or a new stub axle.

 

The muff itself is quite narrow in diameter so if we are to go down that route we should be using the narrow bogie muffs as a starting point and I've no idea what we'd do for a gear.

 

To me it seems a pin-point stub axle with the stub turned down to 1.2mm diameter is the way to go.

 

Cheers,

 

John

Going on my experiences with a Dapol 86 & 156 it’s probable the wheels can be shifted along the stub axle after machining I.e. skimming the rears down to give the 0.3mm flange width ( I made a tool to enable doing this). However, the fronts do need also skimming a bit for clearance so with this in mind replacing the traction tyre wheels would probably be needed.  All this is only speculation though since I don’t have or will be getting one of these.

 

Bob

[DavidLong]

7 hours ago, Izzy said:

Going on my experiences with a Dapol 86 & 156

 

 

You continue to be full of surprises, Bob. Do tell more!

 

David