IanLister Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I now have a J94; it looks scarily small. I guess the best thing is not to order the chassis kit until there's some further news on the replacement jig? No rush, just wanting to make sure I get it right....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thos Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Will the Jinty chassis fit the Farish GP body? These seem dirt cheap on ebay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Will the Jinty chassis fit the Farish GP body? These seem dirt cheap on ebay. No. Assuming we are talking about the later GP tank, a monstrous carbunkle of a thing that looks like it accidently wandered off a TT layout. They are dirt cheap on ebay as they represent nothing real at all. The chassis from these was/is used under the 94XX tank, for which it was also incorrect. The earlier GP tank was a sort of variant on a J69, and there is a chassis in preparation for the J69 which will also fit this. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 The earlier GP tank was a sort of variant on a J69, and there is a chassis in preparation for the J69 which will also fit this. There were a number of versions of the 1970's GP tank with exterior differences. Some are closer in appearance to a J69 than others. I think the interior hollow space and chassis mounts were the same. But don't get carried away with "oooh good, scale J69", it is only roughly like a J69 and wrong on a number of dimensions. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 24, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2012 I always took the GP tank to be a sort of warped Jinty and certainly the Weetabix version that I have is exactly that. The 'J69' (I use the inverted commas wisely) was an early production along with the 94xx and the Hall. Its distorted size was due to the flat can motor that Farish used in these first three productions. The wheels were most remarkable as the flanges were truly enormous which made the wheel centres look tiny. I seem to remember that Chris abandoned the idea of a chassis for the 94XX when he decided that the body was too compromised in its dimensions to make it worthwhile. When Farish changed the chassis to the type with the motor of their own design which was slimmer than the can they did not change the body casting to reflect it. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 So, I've been looking at the parts list which comes out as for a pannier tank set of frames 6 x 9mm wheels 3-257 can motor 3-156 frame spacer 3-359 Skew spur gear 3-383 worm 3-385 spur 3-387 Spur 3-113 frame bush What muffs do I need, it isn't too clear, and have I missed anything else? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gingerbread Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 So, I've been looking at the parts list which comes out as for a pannier tank set of frames 6 x 9mm wheels 3-257 can motor 3-156 frame spacer 3-359 Skew spur gear 3-383 worm 3-385 spur 3-387 Spur 3-113 frame bush What muffs do I need, it isn't too clear, and have I missed anything else? I'm not certain about the muffs, but I think you will need: 3-100 axle muff for drivers 3-101 gear muff In addition, I would suggest you need: 3-107 Flanged crankpins (alternatively 3-106 unflanged) 3-109 Crankpin cap washers etched (alternatively 3-108 turned) 3-110 Axle steel (approx four lengths for alignment checking - or use drills if you have them - but at least one for spur shafts) 3-383 is marked on the shop list as TOS, so I chose the 3-362 Gearset 100DP 30:1 rather than your choice of 3-359+3-383, which means I also needed from Nigel Lawton a 1.0mm to 1.5mm adaptor for the motor shaft (probably best to buy at least 2, in case one escapes). I think you probably need those adaptors anyway, to make the 1.0 mm shaft fit the 1.5 mm bearings at either end of the worm - but you might also have problems that the shaft doesn't reach the "far" bearing - haven't checked the geometry closely enough yet. I was advised to use 3-157 for frame spacer, rather than 3-156 Mine is barely started, so I can't yet confirm that all the pieces fit together correctly, but I can confirm that the jig appears to line up without the problems reported for some of the others (J94, 03/04, 4F). Good luck with it David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I'm not certain about the muffs, but I think you will need: 3-100 axle muff for drivers 3-101 gear muff I was advised to use 3-157 for frame spacer, rather than 3-156 With your choice of metric gears, you need 1 each of muffs 3-102a and 3-102b. The other two axles you can put on what you wish as they have no gears, so 3-100 woud be fine. If using imperial gears (64DP), you would need 2 x 3-101 and 2 x 3-100. 3.-157 is the correct frame spacer as it is the one used with thin etched frames. 3-156 is for those who still build locos by cutting out frames from thicker material themselves. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Umm, I do like your instructions Chris, but the lack of a numbered parts list does hinder it. Thanks for this additional information, how about adding this to the instructions? I find the 2mm price list a bit unfathomable at times. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 I always took the GP tank to be a sort of warped Jinty and certainly the Weetabix version that I have is exactly that. The 'J69' (I use the inverted commas wisely) was an early production along with the 94xx and the Hall. Its distorted size was due to the flat can motor that Farish used in these first three productions. The wheels were most remarkable as the flanges were truly enormous which made the wheel centres look tiny. I seem to remember that Chris abandoned the idea of a chassis for the 94XX when he decided that the body was too compromised in its dimensions to make it worthwhile. When Farish changed the chassis to the type with the motor of their own design which was slimmer than the can they did not change the body casting to reflect it. David I found to my horror that I owned one of those later GPs. I have a whole box of the plastic version in my attic, but I also have now a metal one whjich came as a job lot on ebay with a J94 body that I did want. The funny thing is, I picked it up and realised functionally it would make an ideal 2mm loco! It weighs a whole lot and have acres of space inside for a Mashima motor. Think I might design it an 0-8-0 chassis to counteract all these teeny-weeny things that are everyone else's taste in locos. Should make a change as I can put the wheels where I like to suit the gears rather than the usual palava of having to match a published drawing. MR design for a hump-shunter for Toton yard? Or perhaps not... Also measured the 'J69' and was surprised it was not as distorted as I thought. Tanks are too high and long, but not by much. The body itself is actually not as wide as it should be for a J69, so it could even take some side overlays. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted February 3, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2012 Also measured the 'J69' and was surprised it was not as distorted as I thought. Tanks are too high and long, but not by much. The body itself is actually not as wide as it should be for a J69, so it could even take some side overlays. Chris Interesting, Chris, and it caused me to measure my 'J69'. You are absolutely right about the main part of the body but, as I suspected, it is the smokebox and boiler that cause the problem in the looks. At 1:148 the smokebox should be 10mm in diameter and it is 12mm while the boiler should be 9mm and it measures 11mm thus giving the look of a rather over-blown front end. Perhaps a cut across in front of the tanks, then horizontally level with the footplate and replace with correct size pieces of tube might just give it better proportions. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 3, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2012 My etched chassis for the pannier turned up yesterday looks very well etched. Must buy a pannier now or is it worth trying to get a body. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tequila Sunrise Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Try http://www.brlines.com for bodies - I was only looking myself yesterday (though for something else!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Interesting, Chris, and it caused me to measure my 'J69'. You are absolutely right about the main part of the body but, as I suspected, it is the smokebox and boiler that cause the problem in the looks. At 1:148 the smokebox should be 10mm in diameter and it is 12mm while the boiler should be 9mm and it measures 11mm thus giving the look of a rather over-blown front end. Perhaps a cut across in front of the tanks, then horizontally level with the footplate and replace with correct size pieces of tube might just give it better proportions. David Probably a step too far. Might as well build the David Eveleigh kit if I want an accurate model. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 My etched chassis for the pannier turned up yesterday looks very well etched. Must buy a pannier now or is it worth trying to get a body. Don There is a good selection of pannier bodies on Ebay at the moment - just search for "Farish body". Or do what I did and visit a local toy fair/swapmeet (if you have any on the IoW). I picked-up a 57xx body and a 14xx body (both with minor damage like broken handrails/buffers) at a toy fair in York last weekend for £2 each and a Dapol Ivatt body for £5! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I got my last one by having a word in the ear of a trader that was designing bodies to fit proprietary locomotive chassis. I paid over twice what Andy did at £5, but I still thought that wasn't unreasonable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeld Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Can someone offer some advice- I've got my 03 chassis to the point of fitting the motor. This is really a very clever and simple design that (cradle issues aside) put these etches at the leading edge and the association as probobly the best one! Now the motor im using the recommended association shop 8mm- but the worm shaft is not long enough to go through both points of the gearbox???? What's the answer please? Have the motors changed shaft length?? Thanks in advance ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gingerbread Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Can someone offer some advice- I've got my 03 chassis to the point of fitting the motor. This is really a very clever and simple design that (cradle issues aside) put these etches at the leading edge and the association as probobly the best one! Now the motor im using the recommended association shop 8mm- but the worm shaft is not long enough to go through both points of the gearbox???? What's the answer please? Have the motors changed shaft length?? Thanks in advance ... I haven't got that far myself (yet), but the way I interpret the instructions is that you use a piece of axle steel to form an "extension" to go through the "far side". This becomes a little more complicated with the recommended flat can motor, where I think you need the axle steel inserted into one end of the worm, and a Nigel Lawton adaptor in the other end, with the motor shaft into the Nigel Lawton adaptor. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 This is not a criticism, merely an query from an observer, why are chassis kits not sold with everything you need to complete them (bearings, wheels, etc)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 This is not a criticism, merely an query from an observer, why are chassis kits not sold with everything you need to complete them (bearings, wheels, etc)? Partly because there are options on some of the parts; eg. 64DP gears or Mod 0.4 gears, different options for motors, etc. It would also create extra work for our volunteer shopkeepers to assemble these packs, and many 2mm modellers might already have the wheels, bearings, etc. in their 'gloat' boxes. Think you'll find a similar approach to chassis kits from other manufacturers in other scales. HTH Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeld Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Yep I think you're right David, I'm going to try some adapter tube- the hardest thing seems to get the motor shaft to adhere to the worm I've managed to lock one up solid so far - its so much easier just pushing the shaft into the worm .... But thank you David for your advice best wishes michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeld Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Just thought id post a couple of photos of progress so far, it all went together very well,I didn't use the cradle or try and adapt it to work,but instead some vertical holes drilled in a piece of MDF to match the axle centres and the chassis built on that did the trick. Got a really smooth running chassis without power,Now worm and motor............. Incidentally I can thoroughly recommend the association wheel quartering tool,not only does it do what it says but really handy for keeping the gaps consistent between frame and wheels and muff and chassis sides- clever bit of kit! Onwards............ 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 This looks nice, and something to aspire to for me as a beginner. Is this Chris' chassis? How does it compare to the Wolsey chassis? (still not received membership docs so can't order anything yet and getting itchy fingers!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Must stay with the P4... Must stay with the P4... Must stay with the P4... Must stay with the P4... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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