bertiedog Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 With reference to the Exactoscale wheels... Well having looked at the larger drawing it is 100% split, as long as the outer sleeve iin the wheel is in metal, the stub axles are plastic, and the sleeve for the gears, (or plain), has gaps already there, totally in line with what I has been told, they are designed for split pickup,..unless you know different! Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Natalie Graham Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Yes, my error, I was confusing the sleeve which is part of the assembly tool with the sleeve which is part of the axle on first reading of the instructions. Still, it means there's one source of split frame wheels, in P4 at least. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 For the centre, may I suggest using 1.5 to 2mm steel, with heat shrink plastic sleeve fitted over it, and then slid into place with a coating of long set epoxy, This is over complicated. All that needs to be done is to dip one end of the steel core in epoxy and let it harden, before assembling the axle with a fresh batch of epoxy. This is enough to prevent the centre rod touching the tube bore over its full length. It is also a good idea to harden the centre rod. This will mean that if the axle is gapped with a piercing saw the saw will not cut into it. Use silver steel, heat to it is cherry red and then quench in water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 It does simplify the process to have the sleeve as it is just one process for the lot, coat the axle, slid into the tube and heat slightly, and then when still warm put the outer on with more epoxy, the warmth with help set it, and if heat is continued even the long set epoxy will cure very fast. Also in case you have not got piercing saws, a hacksaw will work fine, or even a narrow v needle file., If your adept with a motor tool, cutting disks are a good option. With the shrink round the axle it give a good indication of how far to cut in, it will not ruin anything if it nicks the inner, using hardened steel for the inner is a good idea. Most that I made for my own models used drill blank steel for the inner, and the outer was drilled in the lathe from mild steel, and newspaper was used for the filler, cotton thread can be used, or fine cord, or just the glue alone as Bill suggested, it is just the heat shrink appeals as so neat and tidy. The Exactoscale certainly seem to be the main off the shelf option as the range expands, but only for P4. We really need in 4mm a foundry willing to cast lost wax brass centres to at least provide a range of wheel centres, which could be offered in cast finish, or finished with a steel tyre commercially etc trouble is the market is tiny. It is fully covered in 7mm scale with cast iron wheels in blank form, I have just done a set for a 7mm 060, which is being done with a split frame pickup. Solid iron wheels, fitted to the split axles, in that case with tufnol tubing as insulation, as it was to hand, with 4mm O/D axles running in ballraces. Advantages are solidly mounted axles, the tyres finished between centres, and no pickups need at all. The ballraces I have used in the past all work for electrical contact, in theory at speed the balls float in the oil, and contact is lost, but in practice this does not happen. I did one set many years ago with electrolube grease, but it did not make any discernible difference. As we used ballraces at work it was queried whether putting electrical power through them was detrimental to the ball surfaces, and SKF said, yes, at 200 volts and several amps, so I think that can be forgotten at our low voltages. We used 5 volts through ballraces for specialist camera instruments and the races never wore more than usual. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 We really need in 4mm a foundry willing to cast lost wax brass centres to at least provide a range of wheel centres, which could be offered in cast finish, or finished with a steel tyre commercially etc trouble is the market is tiny. Yep Alan Gibson used to do just that, but he has so few take he gave it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Yep Alan Gibson used to do just that, but he has so few take he gave it up. The UK S Scale Society has a small range of cast centres which can be persuaded to cover a fair range of wheels - shown here near the top of this page S Scale Wheels There is also a range of turned steel rims for members who don't want to turn the tyre profile. It just needs someone to make masters to be used in the lost wax casting. The Society was fortunate that someone had made most of the masters many years ago. I might add to the range with Stanier LMS and BR Standard styles to allow some more modern steam prototypes to be catered for. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Torper Posted September 6, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 6, 2011 I have been advised that Eileens Emporium is now stocking 1/8" steel tube (part No. SST317217D). They also stock suitable rod for the inner core. DT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
renovater 1 Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Interesting subject !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.