Which track for a loft layout?

[DLPG]

Hi,

 

Advice please. I'm currently planning a new loft layout. The loft is converted correctly so is not baking hot in the summer but can still quite warm on a really hot day. I have selected Peco code 100 for all my storage sidings simply as it was cheap, especially for the point work and currently about half way through creating all my storage sidings.

 

I really want to go down the finescale avenue for the main scenic section of the layout. C&L, SMP or Peco code 75? How do kit built turnouts hold up in warmer climates? Would you opt for peco turnouts with C&L trackwork? I have seen a few excellent layouts recently with C&L and visually the track looks far superior. Someone has suggested buying Peco code 75 and space the sleepers by cutting the webbing. Has anyone done this and do you get a good end result. Also how far is the spacing out? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

The layout itself will be inspired by Scarborough though I do not have the space to acurately model the full station for the 1950's era chosen. I will share my plans, etc later in the correct area once finalised.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

[AMJ]

I'm sure that all methods will be fine as there are many people that store layouts in sheds etc that get a greater variation of temperature change.

 

My loft does experience the temperature changes and I have some problems with expansion/contraction. I'm using PECO code 100.

 

Soldered hand built track will cope better than glued as often glue has breaking points temperature wise. Melting point for the solder is higher than you'll get in the loft.

 

 

[Donw]

The trouble with Peco points and C+L track is they don't look quite the same and may not be the same height ( in 0 gauge they differ slightly) andwould require careful packing. Ideally you could try out pointbuilding on a small layout if you get on well with it it gives great results. However if you want to crack on with the loft layout it could slow progress down. You have to decide how important the finescale look is and also whether the flow of pointwork which can be achieved by handbuilt points is worthwhile. Or, adopt Peco track and points to get on with it.

If you want to use code 75 track cutting the webs and spacing out the sleepers would make quite a difference. Again its a question of time available. Regarding laying trackwork you need to be carefull laying the track you would need expansion gaps but if laying on a hot day they would have closed up on a cold day they would be open. Lay track with tight gaps on a cold day or big gaps on a hot one and you could have trouble.

Don

[The Stationmaster]

Peco Code 75 can be used quite satisfactorily with SMP Code 75 track and while not an ideal solution it needn't look too bad with large radius points. I found that combination survived perfectly well in a wooden shed although the building was insulated and partly shaded by trees.

[sixteen 12by 10s]

Hi

 

i have a big layout in the loft that uses Peco code 75, it was laid about 8 years ago. The temperature changes don't seam to bother it, problems are more amount the base board joints shifting a little.

 

Gary

[blueeighties]

Hi. I am building in the same location, and looked at all the options. I am not clever enough to build my own track. Best solution found (for me anyways), seems to be Peco code 75 large radius points, along with Exactoscale track bases, and C and L code 75 rail. The Exactoscale bases match perfectly with Peco 75 points.

Good luck trying to order from Exactoscale though, It's a nightmare

Regards,

Lee.

[steve fay]

I've used SMP track when modelling in OO and it's superb and I've used it with peco code 75 points.

I've also recommended it to friends because I used to sell it.

I find if you spray weather the track before ballasting it will disguise the differences. Also SMP has bull head rail with chairs so will probably suit the 50s better.

If you use SMPfor curves you will have to cut the webbing but this is very quick to do.