Daniel43163 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Hi All! Im looking in detailing all my locos!.. they are going to be fitted with Romford Screw link coupling!. does anybody know where i can get packs of air pipes and Vacuum pipes?.. also how can u make shunters poles for my 08/09.. or is there a company that sells them!.. Kind Regards Daniel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted August 15, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 15, 2011 Hi Daniel, there are a number of sources of pipes & other buffer beam details. Howes of Oxford do Craftsman detailing packs which I used to use, these are whitemetal. I tend to use a mixture from various sources, Howes www.howesmodels.co.uk do Heljan detailing sprues as spares. Various locos are catered for (the classes that Heljan make). Howes descriptions of what's on these sprues are quite helpful. Hornby accessory packs can be had from East Kent Models or Abbigail's (google Hornby spares). These are all plastic and quite easy to use. A couple of pointers-Heljan's Cl.47 sprues have quite good steam heat and vac pipes, the Hornby Cl.31 acc. pack X5326 yields curled under air control pipes (straight ones are in the Cl.50 acc. pack I believe), vac pipes & orange MU sockets. Remember that the pipes and fixtures changed during the lifetime of most locos and modern day fittings can differ from the originals especially on locos which have had long service lives. I've just made a shunters pole out of a bit of wire for my 08, I don't know of a supplier. Hope this is of help to you, cheers Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Shawplan also do vaccum pipes ... although mroe delicate they are more realistic NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel43163 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Thanks guys! this has been a great help! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I quite like the Romford/Markits wire wound pipes. Not as accurate as the cast ones but very versatile since they can bent to any shape you desire. White metal will be quite fragile I suspect. Lost wax brass castings are much better. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Yes The shawplan pipes are fragile, many of them ive used have even broken in the packet before even been applied to a model?! A Shame they couldnt be switched to Lost wax castings, as the Intercity models' pipes are NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted August 17, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 17, 2011 I sometimes use the Markits wire wound pipes, as you rightly say John, they can be easily bent to form the bends required to fit, especially on steam locos where the pipe runs down and under the buffer beam. I stopped using whitemetal due to too many breakages. Must admit NL, I've never used Shawplan pipes. Am just about to tackle the buffer beams on my new DELTIC armed with appropiate reference photos, should be fun. Cheers Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel43163 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Today i have spent fitting all my locos with Romford Screw and all wagons with Romford 3 Link!.. im very pleased with them and they are all working well!.. Now all i need to do is to order the Pipes. I will now spend tomorrow fitting moden tail lamps to wagons and maybe a touch of weathering! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classsix T Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 I quite like the Romford/Markits wire wound pipes. Not as accurate as the cast ones but very versatile since they can bent to any shape you desire. White metal will be quite fragile I suspect. Lost wax brass castings are much better. John Back in the day, guitar strings did the same job (cut to appropriate length, natch). Any fret winking modellers on here know which string to ask for in the muso's shop? C6T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebottle Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Back in the day, guitar strings did the same job (cut to appropriate length, natch). Any fret winking modellers on here know which string to ask for in the muso's shop? C6T. Go into any decent guitar store, ask if they've got any broken/discarded wound strings. I did that in a shop in Leicester years back; the salesman was quite interested in my explanation of what I wanted them for, and I came out with a bagful of assorted strings. Some suitable for the job in hand, others used for various other odd jobs - B strings for DG couplings, for instance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iankemp Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 You can go straight to the Craftsman website and order straight from them! http://www.craftsmanmodels.co.uk/ They send the order out practically straight away. I have ordered loads of detailing kits from them. Plus they are reasonably good priced as well!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iankemp Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 I have detailed class 25s, Class 31s and Peaks, I am very pleased with how they have turned out! See my thread for how the Peak looks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 In 4mm I have used thin wire for air pipes with a 'blob' of paint for the knuckle/cock (white - piped/red - braked/yellow - main res). For vacuum pipes I use guitar (wire wound 4th string). A single cheap grade string is about £2 for around 4-5 feet! Don't forget jumper cables, steam heat and eth etc... ...all can be fabricated from various thicknesses of wire. I have found (look at a photo) that pre-formed model airpipes don't hang right. The majority of air pipes were not put back on their retainer hook after use and would hang vertically rather that bent as per the model offerings... Regards Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 A further query about detailing locos - I hope this is the right Forum. I've a couple of M7s - they are to represent two of the class used on push pull workings down in the West Country. anyone have any ideas on where I can find out about the bits required to produce cosmetic push pull "attachments" on the locos? All I want to represent (4mm scale) is what would be clearly visible. I don't mind making the bits out of scraps if I have to, but any help would be appreciated. Many thanks. used Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsetmike Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I've done Dapol M7s in N gauge, Westinghouse pump is the most obvious requirement, as they are available in N gauge as lost wax castings I would imagine the same applies in 4mm. All the push pull fitted locos had long frames extending a further 1'3" beyond the smoke box, the Dapol is a short frame so I had to extend it, cut off the buffer beam, extend the front platform by 2.25mm (5mm for 4mm scale). (length of short frame loco 35' 0.25", long frame 36' 3.25") The other noticeable items are 3 cylindrical tanks, one on top and one in front of the side tank same side as the pump, the other slung under the front (probably the reason for using the long frame locos). Look at photos of fitted and non fitted locos to see the positions. Some of the pipework associated with the cylindrical tanks is also sufficiently visible to model. Photos and some data including which locos were P/P fitted can be found at http://www.semgonline.com/steam/m7class_01.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I've done Dapol M7s in N gauge, Westinghouse pump is the most obvious requirement, as they are available in N gauge as lost wax castings I would imagine the same applies in 4mm. All the push pull fitted locos had long frames extending a further 1'3" beyond the smoke box, the Dapol is a short frame so I had to extend it, cut off the buffer beam, extend the front platform by 2.25mm (5mm for 4mm scale). (length of short frame loco 35' 0.25", long frame 36' 3.25") The other noticeable items are 3 cylindrical tanks, one on top and one in front of the side tank same side as the pump, the other slung under the front (probably the reason for using the long frame locos). Look at photos of fitted and non fitted locos to see the positions. Some of the pipework associated with the cylindrical tanks is also sufficiently visible to model. Photos and some data including which locos were P/P fitted can be found at http://www.semgonlin...m7class_01.html Thank you very much for taking the time to reply and to post the relevant link. I was aware that the M7s used on the push-pull workings were longer in the frames than other members of the class. I've noted your comments on the necessity of the Westinghouse pump and the cylindrical tanks too. I'll see what pipework needs to be included to make a visually convincing adaptation. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Back in the day, guitar strings did the same job (cut to appropriate length, natch). Any fret winking modellers on here know which string to ask for in the muso's shop? C6T. You can also buy individual strings too. I tend.to use a G string fnarr fnarr..... Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Well a G string is generally an unwound string so not ideal as a vacuum pipe :-) Standard six strings also come in different diameters depending on the set, so a set of 009's start at .009" for the top E the thinnest to .042" for the bottom E the thickest, a set of 013's go from 0.013" to 0.056" in standard tuning EAD tend to be wound GBE usually the single strings. Then you have bass strings..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebottle Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 You can also buy individual strings too. Well a G string is generally an unwound string so not ideal as a vacuum pipe :-) Standard six strings also come in different diameters depending on the set, so a set of 009's start at .009" for the top E the thinnest to .042" for the bottom E the thickest, a set of 013's go from 0.013" to 0.056" in standard tuning EAD tend to be wound GBE usually the single strings. Then you have bass strings..... Go into any decent guitar store, ask if they've got any broken/discarded wound strings. I did that in a shop in Leicester years back; the salesman was quite interested in my explanation of what I wanted them for, and I came out with a bagful of assorted strings. Some suitable for the job in hand, others used for various other odd jobs - B strings for DG couplings, for instance. Why buy when you can blag? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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