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Class 45/ 46 Modifying service


iankemp

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I wonder if i was to offer a service of transforming the Replica, Mainline and Bachmann (the older type) peaks (not the heritage green one though (need some practice on that one) . How many would want their loco's doing?

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Have a look at the one i have done in the thread i have started in the layout section. It would involve raising the peak nose by using milliput and all the kits for a peak. I would only charge for parts and labour. A full run down of parts will be listed up soon!

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Great work here, you certainly set a certain standard for detailing & modification :good: !.

 

I'd be interested in your services after seeing more of your work to those 45's etc,

 

Tbh, I'm not too clued up about the peaks (the difference between the front panel variations, etc) ,

 

I'd be looking for something to be portrayed as a "stored servicable from late 80's era" non runner , i.e; - very faded paintwork, scabs of rust, dented panels, open doors, tarpaulin draped over missing roof panels, etc ,

 

Show us more of what you can do & I'd be prepared to pay you a decent top price for a top job for the above requirements, please get back to me asap.

 

EDIT: What brand of transfers do you use ? & can you advise which manufacturer would be best for you to modify & respray (Replica or the Bachmann),.. bear in mind I wish it to be portrayed as a non runner (without motor etc) & can you give idea of price & other T&C of work undertaken.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave.

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The transfers i use are a mixture of 2 manufactures. The ones i have used are from Fox transfers and a brand that i bought from my old model shop in Long Eaton that the owner had a box of ones that he got. Funny enough they originated from a Glasgow manufacturer, I forget the name of them. The Work undertaken would be a lot as it would require as you said " cutting out panels" i would carefully cutting out the roof section motor panels. It would also require sections being boxed in so that it looks like that there was something in that spot. The doors in an open position would require care in cutting open so that they would look right. The best one to do doesn't really matter as they are virtually the same body. To get the right colour would require maybe having to mix the colour myself. It would require alot of time to get it looking right. So price wise would have to depend on negotiations in private.

 

But to get the "pristine condition" and "the old shabby look" would require buying the kits involved and tbh they do take time to do cos of having to file the flash off the parts etc. Using the screwlink couplings (depending if you require these!) and buying the flush glazing parts as well.

 

Craftsman Dk16 Kit £8.95

Screwlink couplings £4.80

Flush Glazing £3.00

paint required (mixing) white, Br blue and yellow) £4.50

Transfers £3.50

Milliput (for raising the nose) £2.50

pending on work under taken £30-£45

Postage (recordered and insured) £6

 

Some people may not want to pay this just for a loco to look shabby but a pristine condition one maybe as the Bachmann models are selling for silly money on ebay. so for them that cannot afford that, this maybe the only option to have one that looks like the right model ( I know the roofs are right, before you say that,lol).

 

But as they say the choice is yours!!

 

Ian

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Guest 40-something

The transfers i use are a mixture of 2 manufactures. The ones i have used are from Fox transfers and a brand that i bought from my old model shop in Long Eaton that the owner had a box of ones that he got. Funny enough they originated from a Glasgow manufacturer, I forget the name of them

 

Hi Ian

 

I'd guess the transfers would be SMS Transfers.

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Well i have managed to modify class 45039 (D49) The manchester regiment from BR green to blue and modified the nose. I have sprayed it with primer after i did the nose modification. Now i have sprayed it BR Blue, It requires another coat. (I need to buy more cans of air now).

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Class 46 and class 45 D49 have had the noses done and resprayed, i have started putting the flush glazing in now. I will need to put the nose detailing on and then the transfers on. I will try and get some pictures done of them soon!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ian, Was just thinking, have you considered using dryprint transfers as an alternative to using waterslide ?

 

AFAIK, dryprint transfer sheets are still availble with BR logo's (opposing double arrows), loco numbering sets from Railmatch etc, & come in a variety of logo & number sizes on postcard size transparent sheets or smaller, there's no unsightly carrier film as there is with waterslide transfers , & you just seal over the applied transfer in the normal way as to protect it.

 

I look forward to future progress :victory:

 

Dave.

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Mail order is a good option for many things if you have'nt a model shop near to where you live, That said, not many retailers stock dryprint transfers, so you're best going the mail order route.

Here's one link for dryprint transfers, "modelmasters" , AFAIK they're based in Scotland, but they may only operate via online / mail order ; - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CEwQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelmasterdecals.com%2FCabsideNumbersDP_Product_List.php&ei=An-ATqWnKYea1AW6wvDTCQ&usg=AFQjCNG0EHFFjR63rAjx01ljBURR20BIdg

Also, try googleing Howes of Oxford, I'm sure they still have a good variety & offer a good mail order service, they sell a varity of Craftmans detailing kits, Shawplan grill etchings & name plates, railmatch paints & lots of other stuff to do with your projects.

 

Dave.

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  • 5 months later...

it seems to work out quite expensive compared to buying a new Bachmann model?

 

I'm not normally one to damp-down enthusiasm, but I tend to agree: the big deal about the old model is its nose and buffer beam.

 

Assuming most 'bothered' parties can use Flushglaze and renumber a loco within their skill set, what they're looking for next is getting the Peak snout right. And are they willing to fork out thirty notes to do so, whilst living with all those locos' other compromises? Possibly not, when latest spec models can be had for under seventy quid.

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Ian,

As Richard has said above, you need to present your models in the most professional way you can. Why not create a small diorama, say an embankment scene with an uncluttered background, and photograph your models in natural light. Flash photography can be very harsh and unforgiving.

 

Have photos taken before and after your modifications, so that potential customers can clearly see the improvements you can make.

 

I'd also clarify and simplify your price list; for example it's unclear what the phrase "pending on work undertaken" means.

 

These comments are meant to be constructive; best of luck with your venture.

 

Peter

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