Nick Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Peco code 55 flex is not something local stores carry over here in the States, so was wondering if anyone could help with a question about this track before I go off and buy some... If I try to make a 5.5 inch radius (11 inch diameter!) curve with this track, will it allow me to bend it that sharp and secondly, will the gauge narrow as a result? I would have thought gauge narrowing would be less likely with code 55 than 80 because the rail is embedded more into the sleepers, but regardless, I thought I would ask the question in case anyone either knows the answer or they can check on a piece of track at hand. Thanks! Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenser Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Peco code 55 flex is not something local stores carry over here in the States, so was wondering if anyone could help with a question about this track before I go off and buy some... If I try to make a 5.5 inch radius (11 inch diameter!) curve with this track, will it allow me to bend it that sharp and secondly, will the gauge narrow as a result? I would have thought gauge narrowing would be less likely with code 55 than 80 because the rail is embedded more into the sleepers, but regardless, I thought I would ask the question in case anyone either knows the answer or they can check on a piece of track at hand. Thanks! Nick I've tortured OO track to that sort of radius on a tramway, so I suppose it would be possible. but I'd expect a bit of narrowing, if only because things will be forming a chord to a curve that sharp. I'd be more worried about curving it consistantly - 5.5" radius might turn out in practice to take up a transition curve between 7" and 4" , at which point, even in N you might be in trouble Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I have no idea if you can remove it from the ties, but if you can, I think it would be worth pre-forming the rail to the curve and re-inserting before laying. It might be worth investing in a precision rail bending tool if you are going to do it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60163 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 At radii below first radius, (9") it'd be more than advisable to 'pre-bend- your rails as Shortliner Jack has mentioned. This can be done by use of a specialized rail bender, or by building your own. I've even seen the feat accomplished with washers bolted into a single piece of hardwood, but unless you're dead on with measurements I'd advise against as such. The next step below Peco's 1st radii curves (in truth 8.98" radius) are continental brands such as Roco or Fleischmann Piccolo, which clock in at 7.66" first radius. Arnold once made a 7.55" radii 90 degree curve, but I have no experience with either of the three brands. Tomix of Japan produce the three smallest commercially available 'set track' radii at 177, 140, and 103mm respecitvely (6.97", 5.51", and 4.02") These feature an integrated roadbed with code 80 rail, higher than Fleischmann Piccolo, but much lower than Kato's Unitrack. They are the number one brand of track in Japan and feature a surprisingly wide catalogue of pieces - perhaps the widest of any setrack range in any scale. The gauge is entirely consistent throughout. I myself own a full set of 140 and 103mm curves and am pleased with both the looks and construction quality of the track. I'd suggest giving it a try. It is easily available from "plazajapan" on eBay, and alternatively from HobbySearch. As you've no doubt been told before, go for your widest plausible radius given the stock you intend to operate. Short Bo-Bo locomotives such as the 24 and 20 will handle the 103mm curves with ease, as will Rapido-coupled MK1 stock (albeit occupying a near 90 degree angle at times!) Farish's Class 03, 04 and 08 will negotiate the 140mm curves as will Dapol's Terrier, but no other six-coupled locomotives (or three bogied stock) will. The 177mm radii will take most bogie stock and a limited selection of steam locos. Good luck! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Nevard Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I've bent some Peco 009 flexitrack to that radius (placed it on a flat surface and gently coaxed it prior to laying using my special tool called 'controlled brute force') and can be seen on Arne Wharf. Nothing bigger than an 0-4-0 will go around it, but it runs just fine. There's quite a bit of slop with N gauge so even if there is a little gauge narrowing it doesn't matter. I recall cutting some extra gaps into the sleeper webbing to help. I'd suggest doing a test yourself on the kitchen table with the stock you want to run and a length of track to seeing what you can get away with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted October 22, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2011 I have some Peco code 55 flexi laid to a radiius of about 7.5" (maybe a little tighter!) and didn't find the need to modify anything with the track. Just flexed it to shape, plopped it onto some PVA and pinned temporarily with drawing pins. Amazingly my most reliable runners on this extreme radius track are Dapol class 66s! They look very odd and slow down considerably but will still negotiate it. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 You had better results than me then Dave! I found doing curves around that kind of radius (I think I tried 6"?) the code 55 was a bit of a problem - there's more material in the sleeper base, and more friction, owing to the extra height of the bottom of the rail, and it's easy to get the kind of bend where you can see the four sleeper connected sections. It's harder to cut through the webbing to alleviate this because it goes around the rail too. The code 80, and the OO9 track, are both really easy to bend as mentioned above. Pre-curving the rail works well, you don't need a fancy rail bender, you can do it with your finger and thumb, or maybe a bit of card to stop it cutting your fingers if you're a big softy like me. Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Hi Guys, thanks for all the replies! As way of an update, I finally settled on using Tomix fine track and used 140 and 177mm radius curves. That seemed the easier solution - so much so, once my track order arrived, I had all the track for my layout set up in literally 2 minutes! I will post the pictures in a couple of days or so... Thanks again for all your feedback! Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60163 Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Nick, Glad to hear you decided to go with the Tomix system! Though I wouldn't plan on using it for any sort of dedicated layout project due to the prohibitive cost of their point control system (their motorized points are priced well enough, but they use solenoid motors which require resistors and an outside power supply if used with anything other than the Tomix control system), but I do have loops of their small radius curves for testing, and when I have the chance, a very portable test track to take to shops! Let's hope everything continues going smooth enough for you. (: All the best Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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