davyjcrow Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Hi Everyone I'm looking to convert a Bachmann 4cep to a refurbished model, similar to how John Upton did on his blog. However I have run into some snags.. Firstly, trying to remove the existing Bachmann windows is proving difficult to say the least. I've already cracked 2, they are attached with so much glue that they are very near impossible to remove. Are there any magic tips to getting these out in one piece? I have been using a scalpel blade and trying to work the glue apart between the window and the body. Second, I have searched the usual suppliers to no avail for hopper window etches or replacement windows which would suit the CEP. Does anybody know of anything out there? If not, how easy / expensive is it to create custom etches? Any help much appreciated.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I found that pushing them gently with a finger also helped as some of the windows did pop out. I produced a refurbished CEP after seeing John Uptons efforts. I'm happy with the outcome but have been wondering about the possibility of producing a refurb version with hopper vents. I did wonder whether it may be easier to purchase some MJT bodysides and stick them on the existing sides. This has the advantage of having the correct window arrangements. For me, it's a project that I may do in the future but i'd be interested to see your project develop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 I'm now considering an etch for the hopper windows. I checked the PPD etching website they have a great description of the requirements and capabilities of the process. That said, this is new territory for me. I am considering how to make the etches fit within the existing Bachmann window frames. I have attached my first attempt at some artwork- I am undecided as to whether I should file off the window "surround" that is moulded on the body of the coach as well as removing the window, and then include that window "surround" in the etch and half etch the line where the window surround meets the aluminium frame. As it stands my artwork provides a slight (0.25mm each side) overlap onto the moulded frame, and I have planned a half etch from the back around the outside edge of the window so that it "fits" into the frame with a slight overlap around the edges. I also wanted to half etch the interior top part of the window as that seems to be how the prototype appears. Am I trying to do too much? Or is this perfectly achievable. What would everyone recommend for the material? I am thinking stainless steel as it would come in the correct colour for the window frames. Would 0.2mm thickness be too thin? Any comments much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Looks good to me, i'd invest in a set if they weren't to pricey! Would you get the other sized windows produced too? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 If this works out, I will produce the other windows for sure. I am also considering putting some other parts on the etch, i.e. revised cladding for the sides of the corridor connector, and maybe even the partial new body sides needed for the vehicle with the guard's compartment although that might be a little too ambitious, especially if I'm only using 0.2mm material. Probably will include some representation of a high intensity light for the front though. Maybe I'm getting carried away but we'll see how it turns out - I will be seeking lots of advice before I send anything off to the etchers! I do have another question to throw out here. Can anyone tell me if it is generally advisable when doing window etches to try and aim for the etch to fit exactly within the window hole, or should you aim to have it overlap slightly with the edge of the frame so that it will fit more easily? I have read about cusping, so I plan to compensate for that in the art, but I would not want to plan for the etch to fit exactly only to have it drop through the hole! My current art overlaps the edge of the window by 0.125mm each side. Even with 0.2mm material I am worried that this will make the frames look "stuck on". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 How do you envisage doing the glazing? The Bachmann windows which be unusable due to the sliding vents. Would you not require replacement windows as well? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Jon, you're right, new glazing would be needed - any suggestions as to what could be used? As a final resort, I was thinking of using clear acetate glued to the back side of the window frame (there is a very slight overlap with the new frames which could hide the edge of the glazing) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Jon, you're right, new glazing would be needed - any suggestions as to what could be used? As a final resort, I was thinking of using clear acetate glued to the back side of the window frame (there is a very slight overlap with the new frames which could hide the edge of the glazing) If you're going to commission the surrounds, I'd also look at laser cut windows. Brian at Shawplan might be interested to hear from you.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Good idea, I'll drop him a line! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted November 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2011 How do you envisage doing the glazing? The Bachmann windows which be unusable due to the sliding vents. Would you not require replacement windows as well? You can use the original Bachmann glazing, file off the vent mouldings above the horizontal bar and then polish the window on a piece of paper. The hopper windows on my refurb Clacton were done like this. You can also make 'open' windows by filing back further. The frames on this were done with a silver paint marker pen with a very fine tip. Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Very nice indeed Dagworth! Did you use regular Mk1s or was the conversion based on a CEP? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted November 2, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 2, 2011 Very nice indeed Dagworth! Did you use regular Mk1s or was the conversion based on a CEP? The unit (and its partner which is an unrefurb blue/grey set) are built from Bachmann mk1s, 5 vehicles to make each four car unit. See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2034 and http://rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=3231 Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 I'm going to move this thread onto my blog since all the questions I had have been answered.. I am considering pushing ahead with the etch as the windows as fitted to the CEP aren't suitable for the same mods unfortunately that Dagworth made to his MK1s. I would have to buy some Mk1s just to get the windows, which would probably cost more than the etch! Thanks to everyone for the input! (Edit - link to the blog below:) http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/600/entry-7880-refurbished-4cep-conversion/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 maybe even the partial new body sides needed for the vehicle with the guard's compartment although that might be a little too ambitious, especially if I'm only using 0.2mm material You could etch two layers, one front with all the detail and one rear with just the window cut-outs in place, soldered together. You've then got a 0.4mm thick side, which should be sufficiently strong. HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyjcrow Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Thanks Pugsley - I'm going to take up that suggestion! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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