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Peco Inspection Pit


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Hi all,

 

I've been looking for either a ready built or kit build inspection pit and found two from Peco, one is for code 75 track and the other for code 100 (I think)

Is it possible to use either of these inspection pits with Hornby track?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Michael

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Michael, I nearly posted some pictures last week of my latest Peco Inspection Pit Installation. Peco supply a short section of rail to match the length of the pit. However I have found it more convenient to use a longer length of track cutting off the required amount of sleepers and threading on the inspection pit to be dropped into a preformed slot in the baseboard. This will be familiar to a lot of modellers. However threading the pit onto the rail AND not breaking all the chairs in my experience requires quite a lot of physical effort and not a little patience if you are not to buckle the rail. Have I just been unlucky with the kits that I have bought or have other modellers found threading the rail difficult?

 

Regards

 

Ray

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I've just installed one with Code 75 FB rail on my layout.

.

I filed the ends of the rail to remove any burr, and also trim/thin down the foot of the rail before threading it onto the sections of the inspection pit.

 

Mine went on quite easily.

 

Brian R

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I've just installed one with Code 75 FB rail on my layout.

.

I filed the ends of the rail to remove any burr, and also trim/thin down the foot of the rail before threading it onto the sections of the inspection pit.

 

Mine went on quite easily.

 

Brian R

Brian

 

For completeness my pits were for Code 100 rail. I have recently installed six pits (3 kits) and sliding the rail into all of them has been problematic. Yes I have used Peco rail, yes I have ground / sharpened the rail ends with the cutting discs for my 'Dremel'. I can well imagine that the surface area of the base of the Code 100 rail is greater than for the Code 75 - hence more friction?

 

Ray

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Try putting the pit tops in hot water, along with the rail sections - this will make the plastic less brittle, and a drop of washing up liquid on the chairs just as they are slip in will help too. The rails go into the water so that they don't act as a heat sink and absorb the heat in the plastic sections.

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Try putting the pit tops in hot water, along with the rail sections - this will make the plastic less brittle, and a drop of washing up liquid on the chairs just as they are slip in will help too. The rails go into the water so that they don't act as a heat sink and absorb the heat in the plastic sections.

Ray

 

Thanks, I can follow that logic.

 

Regards

 

Ray

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Hi

What rail stops (with red lamp) did you use in your shed?

Ray

 

Hi Ray,

 

I used modified Hormby bufffer stops by added an LED to the top of the buffer stopt and runing a couple of wires to it. There is a board of 16 of 1K resistors underneath the shed for the LED's The other mods made to the uiffer stops was the addition of a lower buffer cross bar for the tube stock the buffers were cut back a bit to maximise the length odf the shed roads.

 

Below are is a photo of the buffer stops innside my shed and link to a photo of the inside of the Croxley Green Depot which is the depot my model is based on.

 

SummerMiddayatCroxleyWRD.jpg

 

 

Inside Croxley Green Depot

 

 

Nigel

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