RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted November 24, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2011 Very quick question, I have just finished using Carrs Solder Paste for the first time, Do I need to clean out the syringe after using it to prevent the solder drying up, or is it just left how you finish ready for next time? Couldnt see any instructions how to care for the product after opening in the packet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 No need to do anything special. I just wipe excess off the end and pull the plunger back slightly to discourage spillage if it gets warm. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 If you find it anywhere near as good as I do, you will not be leaving it lying around very long. It is claimed by some that it goes off, but I've never found this to be the case, but as I just implied, I do not leave it lying around too long. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 My current syringe is about 3-4 years old and shows no sign of going off. Maybe it's folk who rely too much on the in built flux who find it goes off? As I mentioned on one of Rich's other threads, I always use it with plenty of liquid flux. It certainly stays fresh for far longer than the 188 solder paint. I find it's fatal to leave the lid off that stuff for very long. Does anyone know what the liquid part of the paint is? Can it be freshened up when it starts to solidify? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted November 24, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2011 Thanks for that, It really is fantastic stuff. Cant believe how much tidier my soldering is now that I am using this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kempenfelt Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Rich, As per your findings it really is excellent stuff! I bought my syringe of 179 at RailEX and it seems fine still with no hint of going off. I have recently started putting a pin up the needle as a preventative measure, more so to mitigate against the risk of seepage as oppose to anything else really. As per Nick I must confess to flooding the area with flux (Eileen's) to assist the solder and I find this works a treat! I noticed whilst at work (can't reply there unfortunately due to IT restrictions) that you were struggling to find a numberplate for 5512. If you haven't already been tipped off, the Stapleton's on the phoenix paints stand have started selling the NNK stuff again and this includes a load of etched numberplates, Craig picked up a set or two and they look quite nice, worth a punt if you're still looking! Not sure if you've just had exams but hope they went well if you did! Back to P3 and F3 for me in December, woooo! Good luck with the rest of the build! Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 See http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/no-nonsense-kits/products/nameplates/gwr-western-region-standard-classes.html for loco numberplates. Cheaper than elsewhere at the show I got them at too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted November 24, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2011 Thanks Paul and Craig Those plates sound perfect, will try and sort an order out soon! Just done F1 and P2 which I think went pretty well, just keep telling myself 3 more exam sittings and I will be chartered! And more importantly I will be able to use holiday as holiday not study leave! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I have some very fine chain links to do and have been looking around for somthing like this , i had a look on the C+L site but they only have this: 188 Solder Paint - 30mlHI ,But as this is a paint i am worried it will run all over the areas i do not want it to?. Do you know where i can get the Carrs solder paste from? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 188 Solder Paint - 30mlHI ,But as this is a paint i am worried it will run all over the areas i do not want it to?. Its not runny, more like a metalic paint from Humbrol/Games Workshop and normally slightly thicker. It goes where you put the brush only. Its not great though compared to the syringe stuff. Thsi is the stuff: C1016 No Clean Solder Cream - 179Deg C. £19.00 C+L or Chronos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I have some very fine chain links to do and have been looking around for somthing like this , i had a look on the C+L site but they only have this: 188 Solder Paint - 30mlHI ,But as this is a paint i am worried it will run all over the areas i do not want it to?. Do you know where i can get the Carrs solder paste from? No solder paint is a completely different beast. I think it would be totally unsuitable for chain work. Although you can "paint" solder paint with a brush to where it is required it is relatively "thin" and the flux in it is a standard phosphoric liquid flux. It has a habit of "spitting" when you apply heat due to the flux rapidly boiling off. It also does go "off" and can cake. The flux in solder paste seems to be more oil based and tends to stay where put as a tiny speck of solder precisely where you place it even if you flood with more water based flux. This flooding would not be required with chain work. The only down side to it is that as the flux is burned off it does leave more of a residue (inert) and tends to smoke obnoxious fumes (probably both due to the oil base). It is more expensive but then you use less of it and compared to paint I think it is cheaper in the long run. But using it on long joins or on filleting folds it is a gross waste just use traditional chips from a wire and flood well with liquid flux. Keep the paste for those delicate items especially things like strapping, pipework and brake gear where excess solder is going to be difficult to remove. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollywoodfoundry Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 The liquid part of solder paste is the flux, generally a rosin based formulation, although there are other types. The rosin version is best for model use, and is characterised by a 'pine' smell when you heat it. The life of the paste is affected by two factors, drying out and the activity of the flux itself. The flux is continually working on the tiny solder balls and eventually becomes exhausted. To extend the life of the paste, keep it tightly sealed and put it in the fridge (not the freezer). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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