Bacup - Mills in the hills

[Andrew P]

Hi Jason, nice work, I will be back later for a full read.

 

I have sent you a PM I think :no:

 

Old Lune

[emt_911]

You know that feeling when you just aren't sure about something; you're not convinced it's wrong but deep down you know it's not right either?

Unfortunately I do. It ended going in the bin after I tried to rectify what I thought was wrong and ruined it. Looking back on it, it was probably right.

 

However, mine wasn't of the standard of yours and would have been embarassed to post on here.

 

Duncan

[Jason T]

It is definitely easier if you have a real building to base it on, even if you are just using it for inspiration, as you can refer back to the original and see if it looks right as you go along. I find that if I make a structure up completely, it quite often looks like a made up structure; I'd like to think that I have more of an understanding now than I used to and can make something up that is believable, but you should see one of the efforts I had on my old layout (I still have it somewhere, I may take a photo so you can all laugh at my bizarre looking factory).

 

The brick building is ok (and I will probably finish it now, even though it won't be used) but it's footprint is just too large for the intended location. I have had this problem before with making things that although made to fit a location, are not quite right when placed on the layout even though they looked fine on my workbench. The water tank for the mill is a prime example, with the one now up there on it's plinth being the second I made. The first attempt was completed except for paint, and like most of these mistakes, is now cluttering up the attic.

 

Making mistakes is good though, as it is the best way of learning. I would say to keep them though, even if it is to practice other methods, etc., on (like painting, how to attach downpipes, etc).

[billyb_imp]

Jason

 

Both the brick & stone buildings above look excellent, you can easily believe that they are based on the real thing and that somewhere in your past you have seen the real thing.

 

Great work, back soon 

[Jason T]

Of course, with all this talk of warehouses, I have left out the other new building which will sit opposite them, namely a small shop. I have to admit that most of my time has been spent on the others but today, I have managed to get the slates on and painted, chimney stack finished, back wall tidied up and the gutters and downpipes painted (currently drying). Next thing I really need to do is get some of the Crafty Computer paper and make up signs for this, the pub and the other shop.

 

So, here we go.

 

The shop is again built so that the base sits on the baseboard but the front door is at road level (76mm up) and as it is (or will be) hard up against the backscene and at a jaunty angle, it is pretty much triangle shaped (hopefully not noticeable from normal viewing angles). 

 

I painted around all edges to try to ensure consistency, and have weathered the shop-front with a dirty wash of thinners (not going overboard, I hope) as I want it to look on the point of being closed for good.

 

Head on view, cut off at road level:

 

Diagonal view:

 

3/4 view:

[MichaelW]

Wow! Looks as good as your buildings always do Jason.  Have you thought about going for some peeling paint on the shop front?

[hybridangel77]

what do you use to fill the gaps in the embossed brick plasticard?....i.e.the corners of each building!

 

do you use filler or milliput?

 

terry

[emt_911]

The weathering on the shop is subtle but very effective. You have certainly achieved the look you were after IMHO

 

Duncan

[Jason T]

On the shop, I was able to use one sheet for both visible walls, without having to cut it. Basically, I glued the plastikard to the mounting board for the front and (after cutting out the holes for windows, sills, etc), I dragged a blunt knife tip (that had slightly snapped off) down the edge of the mounting board so that it scored the plastikard enough to allow it to bend through 90 degrees, then attached the other side. As I had painted (and weathered) the stonework first, I then had to touch up along the edge as the bending process stretches the plastikard. The same is done with window recesses.

 

On other buildings, I glue the mounting board together along the edges square on, so I work out which sides will be inside the others (if you see what I mean) and then when adding the plastikard to these, leave an overlap of the width of the mounting board so that when it is glued together, it will cover the edge of the other sheet (the one at right angles). If you take a bit of time, you can ensure that you glue the plastikard onto the 'kit' pieces so that they will align when you put the finished structure together. Once it is together, you should be able to trim off the excess and then tidy up the joins, before touching up with paint, etc. 

 

It sounds like a lot of hassle but it's not that bad when you get used to it and it makes a difference.

 

I did use Milliput for the render stuff at the top of the chimney stack (whatever the stuff they hold the pots in place with is called)

 

Edit to add: The other way is to chamfer the edges of the Plastikard to 45 degrees to allow it to square up perfectly. I've done this with Wills sheets before but have to admit that I haven't with Slaters or SEF

Edited February 15, 2013 by Sandside

[Andrew P]

On the shop, I was able to use one sheet for both visible walls, without having to cut it. Basically, I glued the plastikard to the mounting board for the front and (after cutting out the holes for windows, sills, etc), I dragged a blunt knife tip (that had slightly snapped off) down the edge of the mounting board so that it scored the plastikard enough to allow it to bend through 90 degrees, then attached the other side. As I had painted (and weathered) the stonework first, I then had to touch up along the edge as the bending process stretches the plastikard. The same is done with window recesses.

 

On other buildings, I glue the mounting board together along the edges square on, so I work out which sides will be inside the others (if you see what I mean) and then when adding the plastikard to these, leave an overlap of the width of the mounting board so that when it is glued together, it will cover the edge of the other sheet (the one at right angles). If you take a bit of time, you can ensure that you glue the plastikard onto the 'kit' pieces so that they will align when you put the finished structure together. Once it is together, you should be able to trim off the excess and then tidy up the joins, before touching up with paint, etc. 

 

It sounds like a lot of hassle but it's not that bad when you get used to it and it makes a difference.

 

I did use Milliput for the render stuff at the top of the chimney stack (whatever the stuff they hold the pots in place with is called)

 

Edit to add: The other way is to chamfer the edges of the Plastikard to 45 degrees to allow it to square up perfectly. I've done this with Wills sheets before but have to admit that I haven't with Slaters or SEF

Hi Jason, this all looks a bit technical to me, NO HOT GLUE GUN INVOLVED ?

 

Old Lune

[Jason T]

It probably sounds more technical than it really is; basically it is just scoring the embossed plastikard so it can be bent round a 90 degree angle. I have a hot glue gun; every time I have used it, I have ended up with a blister and glue where I didn't want it to be

 

Edited to add: When I worked out that Mek-Pak works by softening and melting the plastic so it will adhere to just about anything, I realised the opportunities and flexibility this offers, including helping with bending embossed sheets around angles and sticking them fast. I know I should have worked this out a long time ago but I was crap at Chemistry at school.......

Edited February 15, 2013 by Sandside

[Jason T]

Progress on the back corner buildings has continued although that's it for today as I have a million and one other things to do. 

 

Here is the shape of the building, although the slates along the angled back edge need to be trimmed back. I ran out of cut slate strips, as you can see (will cut the remaining ones out and affix them tomorrow)

 

It's a shame (in my opinion) that the most interesting side is the one that not only needs to be the one cut short because of it's position, but also because it'll be pretty much out of sight.

You can see that I need to tidy up the wall corners.

 

I wasn't so lucky with lining up the stone on this corner, which is a shame as it is the more prominent. I'll think of a way to disguise it though (hopefully)

 

The building in place (very obviously not bedded in) and this shot shows the view that'll be mainly ignored. 

 

And from the other side. At least with the building being a little shorter, it gives more of an alleyway. The door surround is from a Wills House Detailing kit,

 

It and the shop kind of get lost in the overall view (well, it will when the roof is painted, etc) which is what I wanted. I don't want any building to stand out, I want them all to meld into the overall scene.

 

Right, off to the Supermarket

[mudmagnet]

Fantastic work as usual Jason!

 

I use the a similar method for trimming the edges of the bricks / stones at the corners, although I paint my brick / stone after being applied to the building in most cases. I also, to be honest, do need fill some of the gaps with Squadron Green Stuff!

[Natalie]

Hi Jason

 

Enjoyed following your progress. I have a signal diagram for the real Bacup which I can alter to suit your track layout if that is of any use?

[Jason T]

That would be fantastic Natalie, thank you very much.

[Physicsman]

Splendid work indeed!

 

I ought to go searching for a brick out of place or a road incline that's a degree too large - probably wouldn't find one!

 

I bet you dream of all those buildings when you fall asleep (no - I don't dream of Lune Fell either!)...

 

Go on - reply and get your 1000th post!

 

cheers,

 

Jeff

[emt_911]

It just gets better with every change / improvement you make

 

Duncan

[aberdare]

Jason

 

When I started to follow this thread that corner was empty - apart from the boxes that is - and since then it has just gone from strength to strength and just keeps on improving, I often thought it looks pretty good now it's finished and then you squeeze another building in.

 

Great work and I have enjoyed following it and just wonder where you can go next.

 

jim

[Jason T]

Thing is Jeff, I am my own worst critic and if something isn't right then it niggles away at me and I change it, which was te case with the brick building I put together for this back corner. I was quite (although not fully) happy with the building itself, I even counted the bricks on the front of the original building to get mine as close I could height wise, cut out the area for lintels and sills so that they were to the height of two brick courses (and didn't chop half way across others), etc. but it was just too dominating when plonked in it's hole on the layout.

 

Even it's replacement, seen in the above, nearly got consigned to the clutter pile at one point as I toyed with the idea of making a third structure for what is turning out to be the 'hole of discontent'. I did think about a couple more houses instead but the problem is the size to be filled and ensuring that the rooflines hide this. With the building I have gone for, the ridge line for the roof runs the full width and it is difficult to see the back of it, effectively hiding the fact that it is not a complete building. With more houses, because of the area available and orientation of the imagined road to the front of the structure, then the ridge of the roof could not be full length and that would definitely look contrived and obviously be a low relief building.

 

I do find myself wondering how to get around these things as I lie in bed and have to admit that I have been known to sneak up to the attic in the middle of the night to check things out before, so I can think about solutions with more clarity.

 

As for 1,000 posts, it has taken me a while as I have been a member for a couple of years at least, and did pop a few posts on the predecessor forum as well. There is an argument that post counts shouldn't be displayed as there is a tendency to trust people's opinions more if they have a higher count than someone with just a handful, which is quite obviously the wrong thing to do. I mean, of those 1,000 of mine, how many have been utterly bizarre and pointless ones? (Champion the Wonder Horse and his rotating genitalia, bunker first Thomas the Tank Engine, the Chonion, etc. spring to mind )

[Jason T]

I just had a look back through the thread following Jim's comment on the back corner and was surprised to see that I started the first building for that area, the mill, on the Fifth of October. At that point, the whole area was a barren wasteland of flat ply and off cuts of mounting board that I thought might come in useful.

 

Funny looking back, because the initial plan for that corner was for an estate of post war brick built council houses, which I thought would be different enough to be a stand out feature and somewhat in keeping with that area of Bacup. I then thought that a mill town should have more mills and once that was done, I found myself looking at the Dewsbury Midland articles in MRJ and the houses that climb the hill, and the rest is history.

 

A few of you may have already guessed that Dewsbury is my all time favourite layout and source of much inspiration, and it won't come as a surprise to anyone else I guess.

[southern42]

Some magnificent buildings, there. Cor....    

[billyb_imp]

Progress on the back corner buildings has continued although that's it for today as I have a million and one other things to do. 

 

 

 

Right, off to the Supermarket

This is great work Jason, you're certainly setting a very high standard for us all to follow 

[Andy C]

 

 

A few of you may have already guessed that Dewsbury is my all time favourite layout and source of much inspiration, and it won't come as a surprise to anyone else I guess.

 

Oh dear - after being on New Hey at Southampton guess what's next on your layouts to operate - Railex 2014 should be near enough for you, be there and you can have the full backstage pass!

[Jason T]

I went to the Watford Finescale show this afternoon, and had a great time. Steve gave me the behind-the-scenes tour of Liverpool Lime Street (impressive in the videos, stunning in real life), met Dave Holt and chatted to him for hours, and finally met Lloyd (Baby Deltic) with his fantastic Sumatra Road. I mentioned that I was tempted to buy the London Road kit for the Hughes L&Y Class 31, he tossed a coin and.....

 

 

Out of period for my rendition of Bacup (they lasted until 1950) but so what

Edited February 18, 2013 by Sandside

[Physicsman]

 

As for 1,000 posts, it has taken me a while as I have been a member for a couple of years at least, and did pop a few posts on the predecessor forum as well. There is an argument that post counts shouldn't be displayed as there is a tendency to trust people's opinions more if they have a higher count than someone with just a handful, which is quite obviously the wrong thing to do. I mean, of those 1,000 of mine, how many have been utterly bizarre and pointless ones? (Champion the Wonder Horse and his rotating genitalia, bunker first Thomas the Tank Engine, the Chonion, etc. spring to mind )

 

Yes, it's human nature and there is often no correlation between quality advice and post number!!

 

As for getting up in the middle of the night... I've sorted out the turnouts at one end of the yard today and locos can now almost reach the goods area near the station. After entertaining my brother for the next couple of hours, I'm out to sort out the other end of the yard. Hope to have the viaduct accessible by the morning!

 

Wanting to get it right is what drives the quality upwards. Can be frustrating, but ultimately preferable.

 

Btw, you might want to have a look at Peter's recent post on KL: 1960 Holbeck (and Kingmoor to come) steam allocations. My mouth is watering - my credit card is shivering!!

 

Here's to your next 1000 posts! 

 

(Btw, I must be one of those "gobshites" you refer to. Over 3300 posts in 14 months.... A lot of which is akin to what came out of Champion's rear end!).

 

Jeff

Edited February 17, 2013 by Physicsman