RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted December 13, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2011 I've read of loads of test tracks and a need for a 'running period' of half an hour in each direction regards running in locomotives. Partly I wonder how many actually give stock a 'running in period' or just vaguely hope for an improvement after a certain length of time? I buy secondhand often as with the intention of re-gauging loco's the warranty is useless in anycase, so its hard to know whether a loco has been 'run-in' or not, or whether it matters, most of my Bachmann Bo-Bo's performed faultlessly regardless of their origin, whilst Heljan locos of the same wheel arrangement were much more of a mixed bag. I'm not wanting to commend or knock any particular manufacturer or product, but is running in a meaningful process? I find it hard to mentally picture someone monitoring a length of operation of a loco to then pronounced it 'run in'? Hope this isn't a silly question, just curious? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted December 13, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2011 I think nylon gears have taken some of the mystery out of RTR running in. Do I not recall that toothpaste was a recommended aid for brass gears decades ago? Don't forget to wipe it off afterwards! I certainly feel locos and stock improve with a little running, but very few models behave unacceptably badly out of the box due to needing a run-in, so a formal regime isn't something I'd advocate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I will always run in a motor without load, as advocated by Iain Rice, before installing it in a kit, I find that smoother running results. I'll do the same to a Tenshodo spud as well, stripping the unit down first and running in the motor whilst the wheels are removed for re-gauging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Honestly never bothered - I usually quote being asked by some UK modellers at an Inverness exhibition, to show the slow running of a US loco, and my taking a brand new Bachmann Spectrum twin motored 44 tonner out of its box for the first time, placing it on the track against a ruler and it moving 5 inches in 6 minutes ( we were going to see how long it would take to move 12", but we gave up at that point ) - I doubt that it would improve with having been run in. I should add that I do have a rolling road, but it really gets used to check that locos actually run rather, than for running them in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 All brushed motors need a period of running without load to get the brushes lapped to the commutator. And there is nothing wrong with running the entire loco for some period of time in each direction to make it losen up in the drive train. The Bachmann (USA) Spectrum locos is very much helped by this practice...... I have bought some second hand Spectrums where the running have been poor, and in most cases there is dirt/scratches on the commutator, wich is related to not letting it adjust slowly without load...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 If you are minded to test such things, then it is possible to measure improvements in minimum sustainable crawl speed, maximum speed, noise output, traction; when straight from the box condition is compared to performance after an hour or two hours steady medium speed running with no load. The gains are small on well developed and intrinsically smooth running drive layouts, such as the centre motor with flywheels mechs used in twin bogie models; much more noticeable with steam models. There's a bundle of stuff going on, polishing up all wiping and rolling conducting contacts, bearing surfaces bedding in and distribution of lubricant probably the main factors. Running in works on rolling stock too, as the pin point axles polish up the moulded recess they locate in; even more noticeable for steel pinpoint axles in brass bearings which should be run without lubricant for several hours from new, and can become near prototypically free rolling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I have heard it said that there is no such thing as 'running in', only wearing out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I "run in" on a rolling road or test circle ALL locos both kit built and s/h. With kit built I believe it is essential as it is not only the meshing of new worm and gear but also the bearings. A run in period is usually followed by a thorough clean off of the now dirty oil and a re-oiling for normal running. The same applies to s/h purchases RTR or kit. They all get a thorough overhaul and clean, not forgetting wheel clean and pickup re-evaluation.resetting. It is amazing just how many "non-runners" and "in need of TLC" can be brought back to new or better than new by the application of a little effort. But with most s/h kits I find the whole assembly to be at fault so tend to boil it / cook it back to component parts and rebuild often with a new improved can motor and decent ratio gearing. That takes much more time and effort but worth it. And yes I've used toothpaste but there are less flavoured varieties of fine polishing medium that are probably as good/better/more expensive for the job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 I have recently posted on the '00 Works' thread that my Midland 2F 0-6-0 is taking a lot of running in. It has had at least 12 hours so far and still won't crawl far as it seems to stick at some sort of 'tight' spot. Admittedly it is a model of a 'fire and water' machine rather than the infernal combustion examples mentioned above and from a 'small' manufacturer as opposed to a mainstream one but it does illustrate that some models do need running in. I have heard of the toothpaste ploy but I am also aware of richbrummitt's comment about "wearing out". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollywoodfoundry Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Running in is not really necessary with most of the new Chinese built RTR products as most of the gears are plastic and there are few actual bearings. However all new products are prone to 'juvenile failures', so it is best to reveal them as early as possible. It is not unknown for someone to buy an RTR model and leave it in the box for a year or so, then get it out and find it does not run. So, simply from the point of view of your warranty, it is a good idea to run your new loco for an hour or so to make sure there isn't a weak part that gives up its ghost. I have seen the testing regime at a certain 'well known' Chinese manufacturer's plant, and it consists of running the model about 3 feet down a straight track and back straight into the box. You are not going to reveal much during that short trip. For mechanisms that employ metal gears and metal bearings, running in is essential. Metal bearings have to bed in and polish off all the high points and the lubricants need to be properly distributed. After running in, it is vital to re-lubricate the bearings and gears, as a lot of the lubricant will have been lost during the running in period. I am not a great fan of treating the mechanism gently during this period either, and you might be surprised to know that when I am bench testing a new drive mechanism, I spin it up to around 40,000 RPM for a good 45 seconds or so. That soon sorts the wheat from the chaff. Better it fails in my hands than the customers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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