Class 325 Royal Mail EMU in 00 Gauge

[CWJ]

It's been a while since my last progress report!

 

Pantograph

 

Unfortunately, while trying to straighten out part of the Hurst pantograph I managed to go quite a bit of damage. Nothing which can't be repaired, and I expect I'll cobble it back together sufficiently to use on the 325. However, in the midst of the finger-burning exercise it occurred to me that I might be able to scratch-build something which, if not better than the Hurst kit, is easier to put together squarely and neatly (I refer again to Cav's (RBE's) Class 90 thread). So in true railway modeller style I went off and got distracted, collecting a number of good photographs and scaling off them to produce a drawing, and am now thinking about how to produce it in model form. A simple version of the drawing is below, for interest, but I really need to get back to the 325 before I embark on this!

 

 

Edit: Before anyone gets excited, I should point out that the above drawing has not yet been checked against any precise dimensions, and that the plan elevation shows two different types of base; the top half is the type fitted to the 325, the bottom half is as fitted to most locos.

 

Anyway, back in the real world (!), I'll re-assemble the Hurst pan and try to obtain some fine chain to actuate the upper arm.

 

 

Etched Roller-Shutter Doors, Door Pushbuttons and Cab Air-con Vents

 

These arrived today and look lovely. I won't be fitting them until quite late on, so as not to clog them up with filler or paint, but the doors will soon make an appearance when I try them for size in the Bachmann doorways.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[Pete Harvey]

Will

 

I understand that your panto is a work in progress but your base is not symetrical to the centre of the panto head or arms.

 

if you check my picture above you will see that the base is symetrical to the centre line of the panto.

 

Nice drawing though.

 

Pete

[Gallows Close]

Hello Will,

 

I succeeded with a Hurst BWHSP for my class 90and class 321/9 models. They are a pain, but can be made to work quite well. I ditched the nylon, and used three strands of fine copper wire twisted together and soldered to the upper arm and frame to make the thing work.

 

 

By the way, I used a Bachmann Class 166 drive train in the trailer coach to make this model. The bogies are close to those on the Class 325 too, unlike those on the class 150.

 

 

Best of luck with the Class 325,

Chris.

[NickL2008]

following this with interest, especially the Pantograph, as im scratch building one for my class 87 that im currently doing

 

NL

[298]

Hello Will, I succeeded with a Hurst BWHSP for my class 90and class 321/9 models. They are a pain, but can be made to work quite well. I ditched the nylon, and used three strands of fine copper wire twisted together and soldered to the upper arm and frame to make the thing work.

 

True, they're a right pain....!!

 

I've used some very fine chain, slightly pre-stretched and soldered in place. You also have to use "solder mask" to stop the solder creeping around the links on the elbow joint during assembly.

[Gallows Close]

May be we should start a pantograph thread.......

[NickL2008]

I second that, be good for people like me looking for inspiration to building our own not that im trying to sound selfish or anything

 

NL

[CWJ]

I understand that your panto is a work in progress but your base is not symetrical to the centre of the panto head or arms.

Hi Pete - see the note in italics below the drawing (which wasn't very clear so I've edited it ) - the top part of the plan elevation is the smaller base fitted to 325s, Class 91s and possibly 323s; the lower half of the drawing is the larger base fitted to Classes 86-90 and earlier EMUs. I couldn't be bothered to do two seperate drawings!

 

I succeeded with a Hurst BWHSP for my class 90and class 321/9 models. They are a pain, but can be made to work quite well. I ditched the nylon, and used three strands of fine copper wire twisted together and soldered to the upper arm and frame to make the thing work.

Thanks for the message Chris, especially the copper wire suggestion. I tried some very fine stainless steel wire I happened to have, as it was strong and springy, but the solder just wouldn't take to it. Copper is slightly softer but will solder much more easily, and using three strands is a clever way of allowing for any breakages. I'm looking forward to building a 321/9 myself at some point, but one thing at once!

 

I've used some very fine chain, slightly pre-stretched and soldered in place. You also have to use "solder mask" to stop the solder creeping around the links on the elbow joint during assembly.

Thanks for the tip, I'll be looking out for suitable chain.

 

May be we should start a pantograph thread.......

Not a bad idea - if anything comes of my scratchbuilt pan, I'd be happy to share my experiences.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[Gallows Close]

Hello Will, and RM Webbers,

 

I have started a thread entitled Pantographs over in the Kitbuilding and Scratchbuilding forum. I'm looking forward to learning something! Now, back to the class 325...

 

Chris.

[CWJ]

Pantographs aside, work continues steadily!

 

Here is a quick snap of the roller shutter doors etch (apologies for photo quality). The etch also includes door open pushbuttons and cab air-con vents:

 

 

Each door has a handle strip which slots into the bottom of the door:

 

 

The fit of the door isn't quite perfect for the Bachmann 150 - the width is spot-on, but it isn't quite tall enough. It looks ok on the photo but in reality the gap at the bottom is unacceptable. I need to decide whether to raise up the footsteps or lower the top of the door opening. The door etch is just plonked in position for the photo, and not yet bent to shape:

 

 

I'm not looking forward to cutting out all those doors!

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[RBE]

I completed construction of the pantograph (except for painting) but although it looks great (thanks to Hurst Models, not my construction skills) I'm struggling to get it working reliably. There are three issues:

 

(1) The head is able to flip right over, which could be a problem as my layout will include 'ski-jumps' where the catenary begins and ends; the pantograph will therefore need to leave and re-enter the catenary with the head the right way up. I have rectified this by adding a brass wire to the 'apex' arms which restricts the amount of swivel to that required for normal operation.

 

(2) The spring, as supplied, spoils the appearance of the pantograph and no matter how tightly it is adjusted, it isn't at the correct angle to lift the lower arm any more than about 30 degrees. Because I will have the luxury of a windowless unit, I intend to fit a spring below the roof, with a small actuating lever soldered to the bottom arm of the pantograph. This will pass through a small slot below the base and hopefully be more subtle than the existing arrangement.

 

(3) The nylon thread didn't seem very effective at controlling the angle of the upper arm, with a considerable amount of 'stretch' apparent. I was just wondering whether or not to replace it when my soldering iron accidentally made the decision for me. I'm now appealling to 'RBE' and others: who makes chain fine enough for pantograph use? It can't be more than about 1mm thick, preferably less. Thanks in anticipation!

 

Photos to follow.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

 

Hi Will, just caught this thread, very nice work indeed. I really need to get cracking on some emu's once I've gotten phase 2 of Outon Road sorted. There is a distinct lack of electric haulage for a OHLE layout. Anyway I digress. The chain I use for my pans are from cornwall model boats, they have a website and sell all manner of useful stuff for the railway modeller. The chain I used was the finest they do, I think it's 42 links per inch. It only just goes through the brass square section I used for my bottom arm. The square section is 1.6mm (1/16") outside dimension, I don't know the inside dim but it is certainly less than a mill I would say. The chain is much finer than a mill though.

 

I hope this helps, the chain works much better than nylon as there is absolutely no stretch in it.

 

Cav

[Pete Harvey]

The 325 etche was designed for use with the Bratchell model so, I'm pleased to see that it will 90% fit the Bachmann 150.

 

If I was fitting them I would lower the top of the door, make a plasticard template using the etch and them use the plasticard as a guide in lowering the door top.

 

No need to remove the door behind the etch.

 

Just what I would do.

 

Pete

[CWJ]

Cav - thanks for your comments and the chain tip. Even Eileen's Emporium didn't have anything which looks small enough, so I was about to give up hope!

 

Pete - anything which means I don't have to cut out the doors is a very good idea! Tonight I'll have a go at rubbing down the door details (window frames etc.) to see if the etch, when fitted, will be adequately recessed into the bodyside.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[Pete Harvey]

Will

 

A number 9 scalpel blade works well in the door detail as it is a chisel blade and will easily remove the detail and leave a flat smooth surface.

 

Pete

[CWJ]

I did some work on the roller shutter doors last night. There are three obstacles to be overcome:

 

(1) The door isn't quite tall enough, as mentioned above.

(2) The roller-shutter follows the profile of the lower portion of the vehicle, but is angled back slightly towards the top, so the top of Bachmann's doors is in the way.

(3) I said before that the width of the etched doors is 'spot-on' - well it is, except that this width includes Bachmann's door frame.

 

This photo shows what I mean. Note that the raised detail on the doors has been rubbed down:

 

 

Now, I could have cut the etches down to fit between the door frames, but the top portion of the frames would need to be filed back at a precise angle (to replicate the runners for the roller-shutter) - I didn't think I could do this neatly. Plan B was to cut out the entire Bachmann doors, including frames, and mount the etches in the resulting hole using a piece of plastic across the back of the door opening - I ruled this out on the basis that I didn't fancy cutting out 16 door openings, and it would leave the footstep area quite thin and fragile. This led me to Plan C: simply cut out the top 9mm of the doors (most of which is already open because of the windows), allowing the etch to be glued to the doors with the top part 'raked back' into the bodyside.

 

This is what it looks like before addition of the door:

 

 

Here's a photo showing the first etch loosely plonked in position. It has been formed to (roughly!) the correct profile. Note the gap at the top:

 

 

It isn't perfect, as the runners should just be visible on each side of the door, but I could add these from some tiny lengths of plastic later if really necessary. To address the gap at the top I have glued strips of plastic to the door frame; the corners will be treated with a round file:

 

 

After a long session I got all 16 doors to the same stage last night. I won't glue the etches on until much later, so as not to clog the fine detail up with filler, paint, etc. This weekend I hope to glue in all the windows and fill flush with the bodyside. As Ian has already started this for his 12-car set, I wonder if he would notice another four cars if I put them his way?

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[Ian Fisher]

Yeah, yeah, yeah Will pass em this way whats another forty odd windows to fill?

 

JUST SEND A HUGE CHEQUE made payable to SQUADRON fillers....

 

Mind you, you dont need as much filling as me so youve got an easy job and two thirds less than me.

 

Seriuos note though dont rush the gluing and filling do the glueing then after that set do your filling!

 

Ian

 

 

 

I did some work on the roller shutter doors last night.

 

 

After a long session I got all 16 doors to the same stage last night. I won't glue the etches on until much later, so as not to clog the fine detail up with filler, paint, etc. This weekend I hope to glue in all the windows and fill flush with the bodyside. As Ian has already started this for his 12-car set, I wonder if he would notice another four cars if I put them his way?

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[CWJ]

I've just finished glueing the glazing back in:

 

 

Where the glazing wouldn't fit into the cab side windows, I've bunged a load of styrene in.

 

I've also removed the water tank hatch from the roof. A classic example of something which looks really neat in reality but a close-up photo makes it look a complete mess!

 

 

What did those poor little rivets do to deserve that kind of treatment?

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[CWJ]

All windows and other bodyside irregularities have now been treated to two layers of filler, each being rubbed down. There are still some minor pits and recesses which might need treating with a finer, stickier filler than the (Revell) stuff I've been using. I have used Squadron putty in the past and been very impressed, so I'll try that. The green version would be good as I'm struggling to see the patches of filler on the surface.

 

No photos as it isn't very exciting! Please shout if you'd like to see a snap, though.

 

Next, I'll be re-profiling the inner ends.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[CWJ]

The bodyside filling and rubbing-down exercise is now complete (breathes sigh of relief). I've made a start on the inner ends which are different to those on the Class 150. This photo shows the first one with the major modifications made in plastic, but before tidying-up:

 

 

Basically, the tapered part down each side has been extended towards the central gangway area (white plastic bits), where a recess has been cut. A piece of (black) plastic has been fitted inside the end, but unfortunately it can't extend down to solebar level because of the close-coupling mechanism fitted to the chassis. This functionality is more important to me than the accuracy of the inner ends, which will be barely visible.

 

This just needs tidying up with some filler and horizontal ribs fitted across the black 'gangway' panel. Then I need to repeat it on five further ends, two of which will have to be completely rebuilt from driving cabs. It had occured to me that I could cast this first end in resin, but by the time I've made a mould and set everything up I could have just repeated this process five times.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[CWJ]

Today's progress...

 

I've now done two of the six inner ends and applied filler, which will be rubbed down when completely dry. This also shows how the black blanking panels extend down only as far as the close-coupling mechanism.

 

My second job for today (filing those tapered inner ends can only provide so much enjoyment) was to reverse the chassis on the Trailer Auxiliary Van (TAV) vehicle. You may remember I cut the pantograph well in the wrong end of the body, which leaves the close-coupling at the wrong end of the chassis. a few minor alterations were made to the former cab end of the chassis, and as the internal plastic clips no longer line up I have glued some plastic blocks to the inside of the body to hold the chassis at the correct height.

 

Just to remind myself that I've got a lot more work to do - here's the whole train at this stage.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[tomstaf]

Will,

 

It's taking shape very nicely!

 

If you can get your hands on some spare Hornby Class 56 round buffers, they ought to be perfect for the front ends.

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

[CWJ]

Thanks for the tip, Tom, I'll have a look at some 56 buffers. I've already got a set of (I think) Alan Gibson ones, but the 325 buffers seem to have an unusually short base unit (I don't know the right word for this, but the main housing which is attached to the bufferbeam).

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[NickL2008]

The "Shank" ? .. 325 is looking good, the Hornby 56 buffers have a short shank

 

NL

[CWJ]

Shank! Yes, thanks Nick.

 

Been working on the power car today. Firstly, pantograph end has been created:

 

This differs from the other inner ends, not only by having a flat top but by also having two slots either side of the 'gangway' recess. I assume these are to allow water to drain away from the pan well. There is a small recess on the bottom-left for a power jumper cable; this will be more obvious when painted.

 

The top of the end reveals the construction - grey plastic is original, white pieces are added to create the tapered end, and the black is the recessed gangway plate.

 

While building the end I also started the pantograph well. A piece of 1.5mm plastic slotted nicely between the top of the glazing units and the bottom of the cantrail curve. Two long strips of thin plastic were fitted to the sides of the well at an angle, followed by an arched piece where the well meets the roof profile. All this was estimated from photos as I don't have any dimensions:

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Will

[CWJ]

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update and progress has slowed down due to some exotic business travel (Nottinghamshire) preceeded by cold weather which didn't do much to entice me into the garage. Now that it's a little milder, and Mrs. J. is busy organising a hen night (shudder at the thought), I had a session on the 325 this morning. As usual I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:

 

Firstly the pantograph well has been filled and smoothed. Two tiny bits of plastic have been fitted either side of the gangway recess to complete the two rectangular openings either side.

 

This now leaves me with two inner ends to complete: the ones to be converted from Class 150 cabs. I've been dreading this as it's the most difficult part of the build.

 

Firstly, a cut was made in the roof at the point where the ridges come to an end and the roof starts sloping down towards the front. The piece of roof which will replace the cab roof is also shown - this was cut out from the pantograph well.

 

Two knife cuts from the front, along with some mini-drill action across the windscreen frames, enable the cab roof to be removed.

 

The replacement bit of roof is cemented in place using a piece of plastic glued to the underside for support. I have also trimmed down the remnants of the water tank panel.

 

After weighing up the options to create the tapered end, I eventually decided it would be easiest to remove the entire cab front and replace it with a blank panel. This is messy (spectacular fingerprint there) but it doesn't matter because...

 

...the profile of the end is built up from plastic strip.

 

Starting with a large file, the end shape is formed. This is followed by wet and dry papers of about 250 and 600 grit respectively. The rectangular opening to the bottom-left is for the electrical power jumper which is only fitted to the power car.

 

The various nooks and crannies are filled. In fact, there are so many nooks and crannies that filler has been applied to the whole area!

 

I've now left this to dry but the end result should be something like the first photo in this post. There is now one more end like this to do before I can finally move on to the roof details and underframe.

 

Cheers,

 

Will