michaelp Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I'm new to using Scalescenes brick papers, I want to build some small brick walls but does the brick paper have to be glued to card first then onto plasticard or can the paper be glued onto plasticard directly, also which is the best glue to use for fixing? Any help would be great. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 For ALL my Scalescenes work I forget card, using plasticard instead. About .020/030" I think, its a while since I did any. Slight modifications are necessary during the build due to using one thickness, but easily overcome. And I don't use paper & glue, but print directly on to A4 size self-adhesive label sheets. These can be peeled back slightly & adjusted as necessary (as above) when wrapping through, in places such as window frames. I prefer working with plasticard, and the pre-printed labels give a great finish. More expensive than card I know, but easily fixed together with the usual MekPak etc. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I build my shells from card either greyboard, whiteboard of artists mounting board then wrap with the brick paper, I use gluesticks to coat the texture paper before wrapping the shell, and PVA for parts that I can't get to with the gluestick. I have tried printing the texture to A4 sticky labels but for some buildings I need the bit of slide that the glue stick gives, never tried building using plasticard and texture sheets so can't comment on that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellicoe Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Stewart's suggestion to use A4 computer labels is the one I use. It is possible to manipulate Scalescenes papers in a photo editor so I can print them out exactly to size and shape for all my scratch building projects so no "sliding" of the cover paper is necessary. It doesn't matter whether you apply the paper to plastic or card; the latter is cheapest and can be built up to the desired thickness from Cornflake packets. Plastic is better if the layout is subject to damp conditions that one would find in a shed or garage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Ok guy's thanks for all the helpful replies. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted January 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2012 Using A4 labels looks like a great method for me but may I ask if you have any recommendations about the label supplier? I have seen A4 labels offered on the web from £2.99 (for 25 sheets) up to many multiples of that price for the same quantity. Presumably there can be differences in quality? Can you offer any advice as to whether the quality of the cheaper labels is good enough for this use please? Thanks. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tel2010 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Hi Don i got 50 A4 lables off Globe packaging on ebay for £3.60 recently with free delivery. Ive printed out and used a couple.Was quite pleased with results in both printing on inkjet and mounting onto card stock.Found even for thin strips to be rapped around card it went on well and less messy than using glue.. hope this is of use. Tel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Using A4 labels looks like a great method for me but may I ask if you have any recommendations about the label supplier? I have seen A4 labels offered on the web from £2.99 (for 25 sheets) up to many multiples of that price for the same quantity. Presumably there can be differences in quality? Can you offer any advice as to whether the quality of the cheaper labels is good enough for this use please? Thanks. Don Personally I have only used Rymans (shop is just around the corner from my base at Waterloo when at work) and WHSmith or Staples (no Rymans locally near home and my rest breaks tend to be quite long!). When using other sticky labels for different purposes (ie as a label...) I have found the cheaper ones to be nowhere near as good. Then again, having made the model I seal it for use in the garage, using matt varnish from one of the chain stores such as B&Q, so the adhesive quality probably wouldn't matter too much anyway? Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted January 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2012 Stewart I take your point as the general rule is that you get what you pay for. However, as Tel suggests that he is happy with them I will try a pack of the cheaper ones first as there is not a lot to lose that way and they may well suffice for what I want to do. Thanks very much for your comments guys. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Once again many thanks for all the replies, it looks like adhesive labels are the way to go. Regards to all. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Iceman Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Look arround the bargain £ stores as i get my A4 lables 25 sheets for £1 at poundland, most these places have them in stock.. also computer fares are cheap as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Michael, I'm late to this one, is there any reason why you want to use plastic? Have you a lot of the expensive stuff to use up? I'm curious because I seem to get a reasonable result with cardboard? To my mind the plastic sheet is much harder to cut and to work with.... Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Iceman Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 If I print on paper (a good matt) then I use 3M artist mounting spray to stick it to card (DON'T use the bargain shop version).The good thing is, if you don't position your print right first time this method lets you re position your print on the card. I have used this method since early 90s even with metcalfe printed sheets (fell out with them as the sheets over time split on building corners). I still have some of the early buildings and never had to re stick the printed brick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Hi Don i got 50 A4 lables off Globe packaging on ebay for £3.60 recently with free delivery. Ive printed out and used a couple.Was quite pleased with results in both printing on inkjet and mounting onto card stock.Found even for thin strips to be rapped around card it went on well and less messy than using glue.. hope this is of use. Tel I've just got some labels from the same company and the early results are very promising. Thanks for the tip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tel2010 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I've just got some labels from the same company and the early results are very promising. Thanks for the tip. You are welcome. As a update ive been recovering some old plastic retaining arches over the weekend using these labels and got to say they stick to plastic quite well.Think it would have been a rather messy job using normal glues. They enabled me to just stick paper on,cut through arch and push papers to the arch form quite quickly. Tel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 I prefer to print on good quality matte photo matte paper and then stick to card using double sided tape or print direct to card stock and then laminate with d/s tape to get the required thickness. I model in N so use thinner card than larger scale might require. Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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