theoldmansminion Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 hi all, having been going a bit silly with the scalescenes downloads, in my opion they are very good. my most recent purchase is the large station terminus, thought it was fantastic till i discovered its for a 3 road platform, yep, and we've got 2 road platforms (possibly at the momment). now, can i get away with assembly the canopy as is, and use it for the 2 roads, or will i have to shorten the width, much, any? any ideas, or tips, greatly appreciated, pics would be awesome many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi, TOMM, I've not built this model, it would cover about 30% of my available space, it's a biggy, ain't it? I don't suppose that the whole interior has to be filled up with three tharcks, does it? Loking at the pictures on the ScSs site, by using the side entrance with the canopy, your travellers could come into a wide station concourse, the open [LH] end fenced off, as though the station has been downsized to two running lines in the past. Ideal place for free-standing WHSmiffs kiosks et cetera. If you're modelling modern era the area which was once track leading to your station would now of course be car-park! Whatever you do, do please post piccies! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 thought you might be intrested in the original terminus... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Yeah, go on! Make a raised platform area surrounding your tracks to stan it on and go for it, you know you want to.... Doug PS My chum is building an extended version of the the overall roof, see here http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=9373&forum_id=101 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 doug, that was exactly the link, that sold me on the idea! problem is, the rails are down, just need to be extended into the terminus, and we're worried that the canopy will streach to much over the platforms and intervere with the next platforms rails. in for a peny, it might worth ripping up the present track, and laying an extra road, so we'll end up with, wait a sec, 10 roads in! as opposed to the 6 we got at the momment. ...and i was doing this as a favour for the old man, lol, this is getting out of hand!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Print the canopy out at 66% instead of 100% ? (or whatever size fits) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Print the canopy out at 66% instead of 100% ? (or whatever size fits) brilliant idea, never even occured to me i could do that, thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikcdab Posted February 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2012 cant you just make the platforms wider to take up the extra space? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 platforms arent actually built yet, the station in the pic, is going to be binned, and we're going to use the scalescenes one, what i was concerned about is the the actual width of the canopy extending "over" the sides of the paltforms, so what would be the central gulley would be out over one of the roads leading in. pretty certain now, that reducing the size of the sheet print out to around 66% as suggested, will reduce the span, as needed so that the gulleys will finish in the platform centres Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Reducing the size by 66% will not work. Imagine this......a man sees a nice 30ft motorboat that he wants, but he wants it 45ft long. He can't scale up the plans by 50%, because... Doors would be 4'-6" wide The deckheads [ceilings] would be 3ft higher than necessary The bunks would build up at 9ft long The wheel would be big enough to steer the Cutty Sark and, and.....I won't mention the problem that the heads [loo-seats] would pose to the average sized arse.... Now think in reverse, reducing the size of the station print-out by 66% would mean doorways in the station would be 4ft high and 2ft wide, the curve of the arch spans may not give sufficient clearance, the awning outside would be low enough to be struck by a van roof et cetera...not to mention the need to change your rolling stock to narrow gauge to enter the platform.... Titan, if I were not to give you the benefit of the doubt I'd say you were trolling! TOMM, I'd mark out the area of the model around your two tracks, leaving a larger space to one side, make it a flat platfoem level area and treat that as a wide station concourse, don't waste your ink and time making 2/3 sized models.. Best wishes, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Well its only the canopy that needs reducing, not the whole flippin station! - no reason the supports, walls, doors other buildings, etc cannot be printed out full size so no problem with clearances, small doors loo seats and so on. To use your analogy it is more like changing the design length of a narrow boat, which the builders seem to be able to manage without making it wider/taller, changing the size of the doors/windows putting different sized toilet seats in etc!!! Might need a little bit of ingenuity to get things lined up how you want, but that is the beauty of scalescenes - you can see how it will all fit together before any card is cut and if it does not work it just takes 30 seconds print it out again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 dont you think, if i just reduce the canopy size by a third or so, it'll work? i would of course print off the rest of the station at 100%, including all of the piers. i've studied the 33 odd pages of the kit, and all the buildings are on different pages from the canopy, so in theory it should work just doing some rough mathes, the platforms as is (on paper), are all around 8", if i widen them to allow for the canopy, they'll all have to be 12" wide, and its nots gonna fit on the base board!!!! ,,,,me and big mouth lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Well its only the canopy that needs reducing, not the whole flippin station! - no reason the supports, walls, doors other buildings, etc cannot be printed out full size so no problem with clearances, small doors loo seats and so on. To use your analogy it is more like changing the design length of a narrow boat, which the builders seem to be able to manage without making it wider/taller, changing the size of the doors/windows putting different sized toilet seats in etc!!! Might need a little bit of ingenuity to get things lined up how you want, but that is the beauty of scalescenes - you can see how it will all fit together before any card is cut and if it does not work it just takes 30 seconds print it out again! sorry, that was what i was thinking Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 It was more a reply to Chubber above. If there were other buildings on the canopy sheet, you could always print it off twice, once at 100% to get the buildings right and ditch the canopy part, and then reduced to get the canopy right and bin the building part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikcdab Posted February 8, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2012 I still dont get this one....maybe its me just being thick. If the platforms are 'standard' width (whatever that might be) you get a three road gap. If you make the platforms wider so that they extend out further, wont you just get the narrower gap? See attached cross-section to show what I mean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 awesome diagram thank you . i can see exactly where your coming from. what i'm trying to get at, is that if the rails are already down, and we have half the space of the third rail in the middle, there is only a certain amount of room (in my case) that you i can add to the width of the platform. i hope you dont mind but i've used your superb diagram, and butchered to try and explain what i mean, its rough, but i'll keep it to the same dimentions, hopefully it'll fit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 curses, it wont i think you can see what i mean though, that the supports, will not, if printed out at 100% fit centraly with the platforms. reducing by a third, should, in theory, solve it...well sorting out the width length may be another can of worms entirely Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Is the canopy not modular so you can print out extra to add/reduce length/cut it down as required? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 hi titan yeah i think it is, but i got quite a curve, and just think the cutting will be a ....well a bit traumatic maybe a tree per segment Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I am with Doug on this, shrinking the print of the canopy is not going towork as you think, personally I think either move your tracks to suit the canopy or the other option is to scratchbuild the canopy based on the design of the kit to suit your width. Not sure of your dimensions but is the other larger overall roof kit of any use for your space. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I thin a scratchbuild/bash using the kit as a base might have to be the option, although I would be tempted to do a 1/3 reduction of the front glass panel as a basis. problem is, it is such an attractive canopy, hacking it about and still keeping it looking good will be a major challenge. remodelling your house to allow greater space to use the kit as it is could be the answer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 well guys, after having alook out in the flesh and careful tarcing of the track layout on to a roll of wall paper, i've now got a stencil to work out exactly the size of the space available. the plan is to print out all the station buildings at 100%, i had already printed the station canopy front glass at 100%, and with a not too much widening of the central roads, and hence wider paltforms (these have yet to be built), i'm thinking that i might just about be able to fit the canopys as is. the alternatitve is to print just the canopys out at 95%, this will give me a fraction more space to juggle them into place, without loosing the overall impact of the canopys. its a way off yet, but i can get on with assembling buildings them selfs, and start planning it, with a bit more confidence Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 sounds good - look forward to seeing it what do you intend using for the glass portions of the canopy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldmansminion Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 hiya muse. at the momment, i've been using some permajet ohp paper, takes ink really well, and you can play about the settings on the printer, so far the best results, i've found is to print on the "transfer paper" setting , (for t-shirts and the like) this dosen't put down too much ink, and is touch dry, straight out of the printer, the ohp is also good for weathering, as the print side is slightly tacky, and gentle spraying gives a real good finish. if you find that the "glazing" buckles after your adhesive has dried, and your left with warped windows, you can, with care and patience, use a hair dryer, and gently take it out the warp, by shrinking with the heat, with care, your window frames wont distort, of course if your using etched brass, this shouldnt be a problem, hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 yes it does, many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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