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Instead of constant loco light illumination through DCC, why not battery power?


Ydna

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Recently I've been constructing a small modern image exhibition layout. I don't currently have the money to convert all of my stock from DC to DCC. I (personally) only consider DCC to be a useful system for exhibition use for the fact that you can have constant loco light illumination, even when the loco's motor is at a standstill. Because my exhibition layout is so small, I don't really need all the acceleration and deceleration CV stuff, but the one thing that I do kinda need to make the scene look a lot more prototypical is to have constant lighting.

 

To cut to the chase, I'm wonder weather I can disconnect the loco directional lights from the track power source pick-ups and instead power them constantly using batteries. So, does anyone know whether this is a good idea or whether it has draw-backs which I've missed?

 

Thanks!

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It could be possible to use an SR latch so that when you get a direction change this would be fed into the latch as either set or reset. IIRC this type of latch needs a reset to change it and they have 2 outputs so would be ideal for directional lights powered by a small battery. The S could be forwards and R reverse, Q forwards lights, Q (bar) reverse lights.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_%28electronics%29

 

You would obviously also need an on/off switch for the start/end of each session.

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is it possible to add into the current wiring a small rechargeable battery so that when the loco is in use it shows it's lights and is charging the small battery which then keeps the lights on while the loco is stood?

 

I know there are systems that are sold to have coach lighting on permanently using an AA hidden on the underside of the coach / DMU

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There is a danger that your workaround will give you less features than DCC yet cost almost as much. DCC Concepts Flicker-frees are about the same as cheaper decoders.

 

Whilst they allow you to keep lights on when the train is stationary, they will not help with changing the directional lighting ready for a reverse move. Also, if your layout is small, will the Flicker-free have a chance to charge up sufficiently before you stop the train again?

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It could be possible to use an SR latch so that when you get a direction change this would be fed into the latch as either set or reset. IIRC this type of latch needs a reset to change it and they have 2 outputs so would be ideal for directional lights powered by a small battery. The S could be forwards and R reverse, Q forwards lights, Q (bar) reverse lights.

http://en.wikipedia....8electronics%29

 

You would obviously also need an on/off switch for the start/end of each session.

 

Thankyou very much for your help. That may well work - I'll definitely research into it further. Thanks again.

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The advantage of DCC is still valid on small layouts. Ignore the programmable features if you don't need them, but lighting and the flexibility of not having to have section switches to isolate storage areas areas will add to operational interest.

 

Thanks very much for your advise. I'll take it on-board and I might actually consider DCC again. The main problem that I have with switching to DCC from DC is that I'll have to spend a £100 + on decoders for my stock - money which I'd much rather spend on something else, like scenic stuff. Thanks again though :)

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Peter Clark does some very nice battery-powered bi-directional lighting kits in 7mm scale (ex-Roger Murray). I use them on all my units and very effective they are too. There is some electronic gubbins that is wired to the motor terminals to give directional change and the batteries are charged via a socket. One charge lasts for about 20 hours. The only thing you have to watch out for is if you wire the connections to the motor terminals the wrong way round. You have a 50/50 chance but if you find you have the red lights at the front then a quick dab with the soldering iron is all that is required.

 

Many people think my layout is DCC and are quite surprised to find it isn't.

 

Chris Turnbull

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Peter Clark does some very nice battery-powered bi-directional lighting kits in 7mm scale (ex-Roger Murray). I use them on all my units and very effective they are too. There is some electronic gubbins that is wired to the motor terminals to give directional change and the batteries are charged via a socket. One charge lasts for about 20 hours. The only thing you have to watch out for is if you wire the connections to the motor terminals the wrong way round. You have a 50/50 chance but if you find you have the red lights at the front then a quick dab with the soldering iron is all that is required.

 

Many people think my layout is DCC and are quite surprised to find it isn't.

 

Chris Turnbull

 

Thankyou very much for your comment. I must find as many of those kits as possible then. Are they still being produced commercially? Thanks again. If you know where I can buy them that would be information most useful as well!

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I've seen a layout on the exhibition circuit which used battery lighting, so it can definitely be done. I can't remember which layout it was, but it did look very good & I can be a fussy sod at times.

As mentioned earlier, research it well first. DCC may well not be as expensive an option as you think...except you will probably get hooked on it. I know I have. :O

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If you do go DCC. I'd suggest that you chip the locos you use the most first only run those and as time & money permits gradually chip the rest.

 

If it would cost only about £100 for decoders for your locos just do it as I have bought a few sound chips and they cost that each!

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If you do go DCC. I'd suggest that you chip the locos you use the most first only run those and as time & money permits gradually chip the rest.

 

If it would cost only about £100 for decoders for your locos just do it as I have bought a few sound chips and they cost that each!

 

Thankyou very much for your advice. I'll take it onboard. In am seriously thinking about turning DCC now, as I'm at a convenient point in my layout's build where I can decide one way or the other.

 

Thanks again.

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Thankyou very much for your advice. I'll take it onboard. In am seriously thinking about turning DCC now, as I'm at a convenient point in my layout's build where I can decide one way or the other.

 

Thanks again.

Drive some trains on DCC, whether it is on a friend's layout, in a shop or at a show. Most exhibitors will be very willing to let you have a go on their layout.

Don't be drawn into the technicalities either. You never have to do the technical stuff if you don't want to. Just drive trains & decide for yourself whether you like it or not.

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