hayfield Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 John Thanks again I will have to reactivate my membership of the group. The A5 turnout is built and I must say that the 00-SF gauges are super to use, I may not say anything at the club and just use them. I did say that the chassis was next, however as the soldering iron was on I thought I would carry on with the bodywork Before I fitted the tank top and front cab unit I thought it would be easier to fit the cab rear first, I tack soldered the center position peg first, then carefully soldered the join as the cab rear is very thin. The tank top and cab front unit was then soldered in place. The cab rear casting had a small part of it missing, so out came the filler again. I glued the cab side (bottled out of soldering it) and the funnel. The roof is not glued in place and will not be until the loco is painted. Some things to ponder The instructions say the spectical plates were brass, is it talking about the rear windows as the front ones seem to be the non-glazed version ? will have to look up some photos As I hope to use the Zam Zoodled couplings I should think about filling up the coupling holes in the front and rear buffer beams What colour should I paint it ? Holly green ? I have in stock Brunswick and both southern greens, as well as LMS red or LNER green or blue. I am leaning towards to lined out red or blue rather than a different green, just to be different. Still something to show the lads at the club next week other than a box of bits Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 I have one of these part built on the bench. Wrightlines produce GVT coach and wagon kits. Someone on http://www.ngrm-online.com/ has just done a build thread on one of these locos. Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Martin Thanks for the link, I have forgot about this website and have just read Mozers account. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Had a torid time with the chassis, the wheels were still slightly binding. When the pickups were added this magnified the problem, fixing the rear wheels was the easy part. The motor mount is slightly distorted and still needs a washer between it and the motor so the gears mesh, after several attemps I decided to remove the axle bearings from the motor mount (they were soldered to the mount and then clipper into the chassis frames) and fit new ones through the chassis into the mount . I fitted Alan Gibson Axle spacers then removed the coupling rods which had been superglued. These were soldered up and I opened up the crank pin holes very slightly and refitted. It still sticks sometimes but is running much better. I will try and run the loco in. Part of the problem may have been the H & M Duette I was using, so I may try a newer style controller. It runs well except at very slow speeds. Depending on what happens with running it in / change of controller, I may fit a Comet gearbox when I fit the decoder To chear myself up I started to fit some more of the bits, I took off the cab side I glued on last night and soldered it, as I did to the rest of the parts fitted todey, The rest will need super-glueing, I will do the metal pipework next and fill any more gaps that come to light. I will make a cab front bottom, if only to reduce daylight into the cab. No idea what the backhead details are, might be nice to make some form of attempt to make something. Still very pleased with the build to date Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Day off today (final day of last years holiday) Spent a good part of the morning fiddling with the chassis, running better but still a problem at a slow crawl pace, might give it half an hour on the club track on thursday. I did some work joining 2 Peco 4 wheel coaches into a bogie coach, then started back on the loco body. Cut and bent the pipework then very carefully soldered them to the respective whitemetal parts after fixing the remaining bits with superglue to the body. The wires coming through into the cab were soldered to the cab, then sanded flat with the mini drill. Only 1 disaster which was the whistle, dont know if it was done in the soldering process or whilst bending it straight, but it broke off half way up. I made a new top out of some GEM brass Mercontroll tube. Whilst writing this I have thought of a better way of fixing it, I may make another. Other than the loco lamps, oil can and shovel all I have to fit now are the smokebox door darts and brake lever. I am thinking of geting a set of brass smoke box door darts and making a brake lever out of brass wire and tube. Very pleased with it to date, next job is to spray primer on it to show up anything that still needs doing. What should I put into the cab? Where do I get name and makers plates And what colour should I paint it !! Still out with the soldering iron and make up the coach bogies Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
talyllyn1 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thatcher Plates do GV sets of name and worksplates http://www.keykits.net/ Click on the pdf. on the above website - GVT on page 24. HTH Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 mmmmmm nice work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 By the time you have a driver and fireman either side of the cab there won't be too much visible in there anyway. A regulator handle, gauge glasses and gauges with pipework should suffice if you want to be more detailed. This is a model I have glanced at and moved on in the past. Not any more, watching it come to life has been entertaining. May even try one myself. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hav`nt you got enough to do John looking after me and my problems fine work sir. Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 By the time you have a driver and fireman either side of the cab there won't be too much visible in there anyway. A regulator handle, gauge glasses and gauges with pipework should suffice if you want to be more detailed. This is a model I have glanced at and moved on in the past. Not any more, watching it come to life has been entertaining. May even try one myself. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Had I not been a cheapskate and not brought a s/h chassis it might have been easier to build, still the price I paid was a lot lower than a motor and a set of wheels. As with all mechanisms would benefit from using a gear box. I am going to buy a Branchlines Hunslet chassis and have been in contact with Brian about a different unit. I must say its a super kit to build, soldering is far better than glueing, and once I can get it running down to a very slow crawl (may just need a good running session) should be quite impressive. Part of the layout will be inset track so the tram set up should look very good. Hope to get a driver and fireman at the weekend Livery is the next poser, what colour to paint it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hav`nt you got enough to do John looking after me and my problems fine work sir. Regards John. I am in Essex the weekend after next, but not that far east. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 A small amount of work was done on the turnout last friday The first stock rail was put in place after cutting a notch in it and fitting an etched fishplate, doubt if it will ever be noticed, but its there. Since taking the photo I have moved the rail so its now in the center. I rebuilt the crossing last night from 00 standards to 00-SF, the gauges are 3 point gauges which hold the rail nice and snugly. On straight track roller gauges can also be used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Second stock rail and first switch rail fitted Etched fishplates fitted to stock rails, plastic fishplates to switch rails Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 The turnout is finished and a temporary tiebar fitted for testing GVT tram works no problem, must try a more rigid 0-6-0 chassis with center flanged wheels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 very nice work - I wish I had the nerve to try it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 very nice work - I wish I had the nerve to try it! If the truth be known they are far easier to make than your card models. The fact is that the union of track builders does its best to give the impression that it takes a lot of skill, practice and knowlage to build points. I build them as I am no good at doing anything else Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 its the track and all the electrickery that always worries me - you can't make it out of card, and I rarely seem to get it to go where I want - I am still pushing stock around with my finger on the current layout Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 Did you ever get this painted John? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 Geoff Sorry I missed the post, not at the moment as I am replacing the 0-4-2 chassis with a 0-6-0. I have also decided to take the etched floor pan off the chassis and fit (solder) it to the body. Been too busy building turnouts recently to find time to rebuild the chassis I have. But new years resolution will be to reserve a certain amount of weekly modelling hours for my self. The turnouts and most of the plain track is built for the 1st base board and getting it in the neck at the club to get something moving on the layout. Just got some more 3 bolt chairs to build more track. Will fit a DCC chip straight into it, and have bought some Zamzoodled couplings for it http://www.zamzoodled.co.uk/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW57 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 I think you will find that the rear windows were glazed and had brass surrounds, as these loco,s usually ran backwards,ie cab first. I hope this helps. Regards Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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