Basement layout - name to be decided

[Bomp]

I will build something to go over the top, of course...

[skipepsi]

I am glad you have pressed on with this you seem to do trial and error with every piece but you don't give up.

[Bomp]

Tomorrow I'll set off for my trip to DEMU Showcase.  How handy to have it where my mum lives (and where I lived until 15 years ago).  I'll be looking out for ideas and bits and bobs that I didn't know I needed until I saw them.

[Bomp]

After a week of leaving my DCC controller switched off (I was off the island for a week), I switched it back on, and it looked like it was working.  But it still doesn't.  All very frustrating given that I've installed more points and got a new loco with DCC fitted.  So, it's off to the post office to send it back to Hornby.  It's well out of any warranty, but it should be cheaper than buying a new one (which would be the Elite one).

 

I'll use the time without trains to build some kits - I came back with a Big Boy from Revell - and to paint some parcels stock to go with my new ones from the DEMU show.  My LMS CCT is going to be blue, as is my Southern bogie van.

[Bomp]

Some progress.  I won't show you underneath, it's a right mess, but at least it works.

 

Next step is to wire the switched LEDs in. 

 

[Bomp]

Also, I've had a call from a very nice man at Hornby.  A piece of wire had broken off my track leads inside the port on the controller and was shorting.  That would certainly explain it!  While he was at it, he's updated the firmware for me.  So that should be back with me soon, and I'll be flying again!  I've got to work out the wiring on my new loops and other bits, but it's coming together nicely again.

[Bomp]

So far since the last update, I have finished off wiring up the points I have fitted thus far so that they are all switched from the panel above and all have correct indicators in blue.

 

I now have my controller back after someone along the line of labeling it used the address over the road which sounds like ours but isn't.

 

I have shorts that I can't remember where or find easily - I have checked for metal tools lying across the rails - so that will be my next task.  

 

I have ordered some scenic stuff - not something I usually do, because I tend to stop when the trains work, but this time I am determined to do scenery once I have the track working adequately and reliably.  So I have signals and trunking and relay boxes on order, together with a couple of stay alive decoders.  I have resorted to fetching them out of my steam outline stuff to fit to my diesels because the upper circuit is going to be the modern one (by which I mean late blue/grey to early sectorisation with some brand spanking new trains that I like, such as purple 350s).  My Britannia has a rake of maroon MkIs from the serialised model railway magazine, but they are probably going to end up being painted blue and grey to match my increasing stud of such locos.  I aim to build up a rake of Pullmans for my steam locos to haul on the upper circuit when I feel like it.

 

I also have a Heljan 86 on the way from Hattons - with glue marks and a hideous livery, but I'm planning to stick my Lima 87 on top and repaint and rename it Robert Burns.  It's my layout, so something that looks right - as in the right wheelbase bogies, convincing under-gubbins and bits on top - is right enough for me.  Plenty to keep me going for a while, then.

 

Edited to write what I meant rather than something nearly what I meant.

Edited July 10, 2014 by Bomp

[Bomp]

Further to this, I really cannot understand why that which was working just before the controller packed up is no longer working.  I have tried taking all the feeds off (I've got terminal blocks all over the place, but they're all labelled with what goes into them) and even the bits I thought I understood are no longer working.  It's getting very distressing, after waiting so long to get the controller back working and now the electrics are playing silly games.  

[Bomp]

I've got several sections working now.  I've had to start from scratch and go back to one at a time from the controller moving away each time.  But I have to move a point because I can't have it where it is, I think I need an isolating joint between the two toes but there's only one joint, and I need to feed them both.  I'll think about it before I move anything.

[Bomp]

If anyone asks what I got from my Classics degree and how I use it, I have always told them that it was fun and fascinating at the time.  I wanted a degree and I was good at and enjoyed Latin and Ancient Greek language, literature, history, archaeology etc etc.

 

Now I use it professionally to work out what happened from several often incomplete sources (Policing).

 

Add to that, I use it to work out what goes where and to remember what has gone where so far so that I can end up with a wiring system that works.  The only difference is that with Classics, I generally ended up understanding why what went where and why it worked.

[Bomp]

In an effort to get some relief from fault finding in my wiring, I started to install a signal.  And then realised that I wouldn't be able to see the aspect from the driving console.  So I decided to get a driver's eye view of it.  It's not wired in yet - I have no suitable switches yet, and the wires are a nightmare.  I have already learned from this first one that I need to solder some longer leads on before I put it on the layout, as I can't get the wires to stay in the terminal block that I'm using to extend the feed to the electrics panel.

 

So here is the latest progress picture.  Taken on an iPhone when I couldn't see through it, so please allow for the focus and field.

 

 

 

[Bomp]

I'm taking a brief break (overnight...) out of frustration.  I have to relay some bits because they aren't lined up right and there are kinks going into and away from points.  I mainly get round kinks by soldering the yard lengths of rail before I bend them.  I can't do that with points where I need isolating joiners.

 

I have a pair of signals from Traintronics which I can't make work - the green aspect never lights up.  The red one is fine, but the green doesn't show.  I've tried all combinations of wiring, both signals, both control boards, and different switches, but I can't make it work.  In response to my email to them for help, I had a phonecall - which I missed, so I'm getting a call on Monday instead.

 

So I'm leaving it for the rest of today while I get over the frustration of things not quite working as they should.

[Jintyman]

Hi Bomp,

 

I'm sorry to hear about your problems, it all sounds very frustrating

 

I hope you don't mind me saying, but you have quite a large layout with a few circuits, you have points, etc, and now you have signals.

 

I would suggest attacking the problem in stages, firstly, uncouple everything (and I mean everything)!!

Then go around your whole layout and look if there are any metal objects or anything conductive across the rails.

Then check that if you've got electrofrog points, there is an insulated fishplate on the frog part of the point to each rail (That's the two inside rails at the heel of the point)

Then if it is all clear, and insulated fishplates are in place, wire one circuit/section up at a time. if there are any points within each section, throw each and every point in that section, and see if anything shorts out.

Doing this one section at a time should enable you to narrow it all down, and may help with the frustration. I have had a few frustrating moments with my layout, from incorrectly connecting feeds to one of my Cobalts, to forgetting to slice the wired link on an electrofrog point. But I've always found a nice brew, 5 mins chill , and starting from scratch, the easiest way of fault finding.

As far as the colour light signals go, I would most certainly leave them till the layout is working as you want it first, as this can just compound any problems you have!!!

 

I wish you all the best and I hope the problem comes to light sooner rather than later.

 

Regards

 

Jinty ;-)

 

Edited to say, You're already working from the beginning, I should of read more!!!!!!!

 

Also, there shouldn't be any problem with having feeds at the toe of a point, it's any feeds at the heel that will cause problems ;-)

Edited August 3, 2014 by Jintyman

[Bomp]

Thanks Jintyman.  I'm still changing things that aren't glued down... so I may come up with a new arrangement that does away with the bit that's problematic at the moment.

 

I have got a signal working and worked out that the other one is broken - but I may keep it to use the control board for a home made one using bits from work (plastic tubes left over from taking samples and bigger ones for hoods).

 

There now follows two weeks of holiday including a visit (I hope) to Loughborough Model Centre in Derby to get some bits that can't be posted.

[Bomp]

I got to Loughborough Model Centre.  They had nothing I needed (but lots I wanted).  So I went to the Tutbury Jinnie, and came away with a load of paint and a Bass grain wagon.

 

I also went to Butterley, and came away with three Midland coach kits.  All part of my Midland train to go with my compound.

[Bomp]

It's been a while...

 

I have several new locos since the last update, including four new 47s - ViTrains Intercity (Derby and Derbyshire Chamber of Commerce and Industry), Heljan green, and Bachmann Diamond Jubilee in Railfreight Distribution and London Society for the Blind in RES red. All very pretty. Also a Hornby 56 in Metals sector, and just now a Heljan 58 in Coal sector. And a Hornby 42xx in Great Western green. I think Princess Alice (Star) is new since my last post too. And definitely new is my MiniTrains 0-4-0 Eigiau lookalike in 009. I had to lay a circuit for him to go on. I think his chassis will fit under the white metal Douglas body I have, but at GBP119 I'm reluctant to pull him apart to see. I should have the Rapido APT-E soon as well, with 3 extra coaches. The joy of Mrs Bomp having a job after all these years!

 

The Bad News, however, is that my track is getting less and less reliable. The entrance to the station loops at the bit where I can't reach is not good at all, because I haven't got it flowing properly, and track joints at the lifting section aren't good either. I need to rebuild at least those two bits, but do I do that before or after my APT-E comes? Bearing in mind also that I'm going to be laid up for a bit soon having my hip shaved again so it'll be sometime before I can sort the track properly.

 

Can one get those curve guides for four foot radius curves? I'd like to get mine smooth and even but I'm not sure I can get them that big. I have a nice four foot metal rule for the straights. I may have to look into supports for my trackbed as well, as I think my inch thick MDF is starting to sag between the supports I've already got. It's in a basement which is dry and adequately warm, so it shouldn't be environmental.

 

How does one best sort track across baseboard joints? I've never done it before this set I have now, and they don't seem to work that well. It goes from the Woodland Scenic foam underlay onto brass screws and the gap is about 1mm, and it sounds like a sudden jolt and almost like it lifts a bit. Something to think about and research during my 12 hour night shifts.

 

That's all for now. Thanks for reading and for any advice that may be forthcoming.

[skipepsi]

If the MDF isn't fully sealed it will adsorb moisture over time.  The joints some people on here are showing are made by soldering to copper clad and then screwed down which would allow you to adjust the height at the start of a running session if there was any movement. Don't forget to gap the copper clad both sides.

[Bomp]

If the MDF isn't fully sealed it will adsorb moisture over time.  The joints some people on here are showing are made by soldering to copper clad and then screwed down which would allow you to adjust the height at the start of a running session if there was any movement. Don't forget to gap the copper clad both sides.

I hadn't thought of the variable height thing.  I have some copperclad board for exactly this purpose, so I'll have a go.  And while I've got the track up, I think I'll paint the MDF.  

 

Still toying with lifting the lower circuit and going full on 009... could be a challenge to get that across the gap, but so many others do N gauge with joints it can't be insurmountable.

[skipepsi]

If you look up big jims shed layout not his down by the track one he has a nicely made drop in section which appears to work well.

[Bomp]

It's been a long long time, and nothing much to show.  Thank you to all who have helped and read thus far. 

 

There are various reasons for the lack of updates and progress, including operations as mentioned above, a dalliance with 1/16th RC tanks and general real life getting in the way.  12 hour shifts - two days, two nights, four off - don't half play havoc with knowing what's what.  Also, Mrs Bomp got a job (doing what I'm doing now (the first four service emergency control centre in the world!)) which helped with train pocket money but didn't help with keeping on top of running the house. 

 

Anyway, plans have changed somewhat.  Although it was great having two double track circuits, I have taken the lower one up because I have more stuff that I need to fit in and it won't all fit if I have both circuits there.  So the lower one has come up.  The plan is to replace it with a long thin brewery scene based substantially on Burton upon Trent.  I have a couple of Pecketts and I'm in discussion with Hattons about getting a properly functioning Sentinel.  I have a selection of Bass wagons, one old Mainline one from my youth and an increasing collection from The Tutbury Jinny.  Also got five more from Hattons because they had some at a good price.  I'm working my way through my Industrial Railway Society book on Burton and its brewery railways to determine what I need and how to arrange it.  One change from reality is that, in the beginning, there was a narrow gauge railway serving the breweries, but when traffic became too heavy, they replaced it with standard gauge equipment on a new alignment.  Because the narrow gauge served other industries further out of town past the breweries (I'm thinking some sort of gypsum or gravel pit), they left it in situ and it weaves its way alongside the standard gauge and the road to a formerly large exchange yard.  And because the narrow gauge was retained, a passenger service carried on to the outlying villages en route to the mineral extraction site.  And Marmite.  There's a Marmite extraction plant served by the narrow gauge as well.  Unbelievably, the brewery and narrow gauge remain in situ and steam powered even to the days of sectorisation on the mainline.  And steam ran under the wires.  Or the wires are imaginary.  Whatever, I'm having steam, diesel and electric on the mainline and either I'll pretend the wires are there or that they aren't depending on what's running at the time. 

 

I like to have a project on the go, but I have several candidates.  In no particular order, they are:

 

Cobble a Lima 87 and a Heljan 86 into an 87 (87035 Robert Burns).  This could be delayed with the Hornby one, but the price may be a little steep, as well as it is always good to have done it oneself.

 

Paint a green Heljan 47 into another livery - toying with Police (47146 Guernsey Police (my force, fictitious so I can just repaint it as it is and not worry about tanks and lights and stuff))

 

Paint one or more of my Harry Potter Railroad Halls.

 

Paint my old-style Hornby Castle.

 

Barclayfy my Minitrains loco for the narrow gauge section of the Burton brewery railway.

 

Paint my Huntley and Palmers Peckett in Bass Indian red because they might have had one.

 

Paint my Sentinel as Bass No. 7 or 12 when I get it.

 

Build my 1/48 Tornado or Merlin kits.

 

Replace the wheels on my 1/16 Leopard 2A6 with the new metal ones. 

[Bomp]

After another long delay, it’s time for another update, though not much has changed.

 

I’ve lifted the station because it wasn’t doing what I wanted. I was inspired to do that by the excellent model of Burton here (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/100029-burton-on-trent/) seeing the filled in bay. I’m intending to have the two track bay and double running lines each side of the island platform. I’ll have the bridge to make a scenic break and have a representation of the rest of the station covering the return curves. If there’s space I’ll have a town scene with brewery buildings and level crossings, and maybe some trams.

 

I ought to have been buying scenic materials and working on making it look like a model railway rather than just some track... but these industrial locos they keep making are too pretty. As I mentioned above, I still need to make the joins at the access better.

 

I’m about to move to an office based job for a few weeks, and there’s internet to help stay alert during the long winter nights when nothing happens, so lots of time to catch up on here and get ideas.

 

The scariest part was undoing all the wiring - I still have no idea how I made it work, but since I’ve done it once, I’m sure I can do it again, no doubt with more close following of various YouTubes.

 

If there’s anything exciting to report I will, but it’ll probably be another couple of years with no real progress to show!

[Bomp]

Not much to report, but I have started relaying the station.  

One of my favourite things to complain about on other people’s layouts (I only do it in my head because I know it’s not a big issue and nearly everyone has got further than I have) is when straight level track is neither straight nor level.   So I have over engineered the track bed (3”x2” frame and 18mm MDF top) and lined the track up with a four foot steel rule.  

 

I have tidied up the work area since this.  This should give an indication of what I’m after - a double track bay with double track either side of an island platform which will disappear under a road bridge so I only have to model half of it.  

[Bomp]

After a long hiatus, I’m back to modelling the station.  I’ve laid the bay roads and made the first platform.  At this stage it’s a Metcalfe kit because they’re perfectly fine for a sketch.  The dimensions are from the Hornby plastic sections.  
 

I’ve made some measurements from a photo of the bridge at Burton station and I’m hoping to scratchbuild it with some 3D printed details.  
 

I’ve reverted to Code 100 for my track and it feels like coming home.  I think the ease of use makes up for the overscale appearance.  I’m also using insulfrog points because that’s what my shop had in.  I’ve got power fed at numerous points and that will only increase.  Wiring was always something I didn’t understand and it works well enough so far so I’m content.  
 

I’m between jobs at the moment so have plenty of time meaning progress should be rapid.  Once I’ve caught up on the housework of course.  If my wife is working then it’s my job to run the household.  She did when I was the one going out.  But I digress. 
 

Having been an eclectic collector, I am now trying to focus on a few themes, namely Big Four Midland and Western, BR late blue and sectorisation and industrial.  
 

I’ll dig out some pictures of the brewery in the hope of some constructive criticism and post them soon now I can do it from miphone.