West Kirby Town: narrow gauge is coming to town.

[Simond]

Rod

 

Nice bit of work! Shows the layout off very nicely. Enjoyed that with my morning coffee

 

A question: you have what appears to be a conflat coupled to the 03, as a surrogate "shunter's truck", I guess.

 

I know that the use of shunters' trucks was common practice in steam days, and having had a brief encounter with a FabLok BoBo shunting in Poland recently, I understand about the shunters climbing on the steps and hanging on, whilst the rakes are moved around, and I can see that the extra length of the shunter's truck might give a better sight line to the driver at the cab end of the loco if he's buffering up, (and it might therefore be safer for the shunter on the ground) but I don't understand what benefit it would give to the crew, as it's on the up end of the loco, and the shunter would surely be buffering & coupling at the down end (towards the buffer stops).

 

Presuming it's common practice, and knowing you're a real, full size driver, why did the shunter crews bother to have a truck?

 

Cheers

Simon

[Jintyman]

Rod

 

Nice bit of work! Shows the layout off very nicely. Enjoyed that with my morning coffee

 

A question: you have what appears to be a conflat coupled to the 03, as a surrogate "shunter's truck", I guess.

 

I know that the use of shunters' trucks was common practice in steam days, and having had a brief encounter with a FabLok BoBo shunting in Poland recently, I understand about the shunters climbing on the steps and hanging on, whilst the rakes are moved around, and I can see that the extra length of the shunter's truck might give a better sight line to the driver at the cab end of the loco if he's buffering up, (and it might therefore be safer for the shunter on the ground) but I don't understand what benefit it would give to the crew, as it's on the up end of the loco, and the shunter would surely be buffering & coupling at the down end (towards the buffer stops).

 

Presuming it's common practice, and knowing you're a real, full size driver, why did the shunter crews bother to have a truck?

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Morning Simon,

 

As far as I'm aware the 'Conflat'/shunters truck was used with 03's for track circuitry reasons, as the wheelbase on the 03 wasn't great enough for the loco to trigger the sensors.

I'm reasonably sure that this is the reason, but will stand corrected if I'm wrong.

 

Jinty

[Dmudriver]

Hi Simon.

 

Jinty's dead right - it's for track circuiting reasons.  Not that I've got such circuits on my model but I've got pickups on the shunter's truck which are wired through to the loco.  It's improved performance no end as the short wheelbase loco did have some pickup issues.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

Just a comment about the video.  I've put annotations on it, describing what's happening.  They are visible when I play it on my PC, but not when I watch it on my Hudl.  I edited the video on YouTube Video Editor and I've not got YouTube on my Hudl (I think!!) so maybe that's the reason.

 

However, they are there and I hope you can see them.

 

Rod

[Simond]

Hi guys,

 

Thanks for the info - I do recall hearing something about that, some time ago, and it makes sense - I suspect it isn't that the loco is too short to trigger the track circuits, but that it is sufficiently short that the track circuits can "lose" it, perhaps between sections. That would be a "fail dangerous" as it wouldn't be protected.

 

Of course, the model following reality is always a bonus!

 

Best

Simon

[Barnaby]

Great video Rod, has a real atmospheric feel to it.  DCC sound also adds plenty of character too.

 

A bit away from the video I notice the "shed?" just has bare walls just now, as mine does too. Do you intend to add some insulation at any time?

My shed come hobby workshop is some 20Ft x 12Ft and while the fans in summer and the heaters in winter cope I wonder if I should at least insulate the roof?

The basic wood shell has a tar paper barrier then a 3mm ply inner skin so it is water tight but I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.

 

Great model

 

Regards

 

EDIT 

Just done a search of your posts and found that you were going to install 3" thick Kingspan, did you do that or have you not found it necessary?

Edited August 27, 2016 by Barnaby

[Dmudriver]

Great video Rod, has a real atmospheric feel to it.  DCC sound also adds plenty of character too.

 

A bit away from the video I notice the "shed?" just has bare walls just now, as mine does too. Do you intend to add some insulation at any time?

My shed come hobby workshop is some 20Ft x 12Ft and while the fans in summer and the heaters in winter cope I wonder if I should at least insulate the roof?

The basic wood shell has a tar paper barrier then a 3mm ply inner skin so it is water tight but I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.

 

Great model

 

Regards

 

EDIT 

Just done a search of your posts and found that you were going to install 3" thick Kingspan, did you do that or have you not found it necessary?

 

HI Barnaby.

 

Thanks for the comment about the video - and to others who have commented, too.

 

I can't remember planning to install Kingspan:  I may have considered it but never did.  The reasons are as follows:  I had a shed before this one, which was pretty substantial - possibly 12mm tongue and groove (Some of which I've used for the outside section).  That shed didn't really get damp, or over-hot.  In hot weather, I'd just leave the door open.  So I had that experience on my mind and I then researched a number of shed sites on the web.  Opinion seemed to be split 50/50 on whether to insulate or not: those who didn't used heaters or dehumidifiers when necessary.

 

So my decision was not to insulate.  The shed is built of 16mm tongue and groove boarding, with 16mm log boarding on the front.  I've put carpet tiles on the floor and on top of those are pieces of old carpet I had lying around, so there is some measure of insulation (it's also comfortable to stand on, too!!).

 

In the winter I have an oil heater which I leave on overnight (and during the day when necessary), to keep the temperature at 5 degrees C, at least.  In the summer, I open the window and/or the 2 doors if it's too hot - it has reached 30+ degrees in there.  I've not noticed any reaction in the shed or on the layout to the extremes of heat/cold.  The problem I have had is the felt on the roof, which wasn't that good a job (I've had to spend a fair few quid on bitumen sealant!).  It's lasted 4 years but I'm going to get it replaced

 

In short, I'm completely happy with my decision not to insulate: however, I think the thickness of the wood also has something to do with it.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Rod

[Barnaby]

Thanks Rod you have just boosted my confidence in that's how I have been using my shed with similar temperature extremes but all manageable via heaters or forced venting.

 

My shed is similarly built being

Shiplap @ 16mm x 125mm and is pressure treated [tantalised]

 

It is lined with WBF grade plywood 3mm thick and between the 2 woods is a tar paper vapour barrier.

 

It has double doors and 3 double glazed twin windows all along the same side.

I've had it now some 4 years and all is fine and your comments back up what I have experienced but I was wondering before I did any more if I should at least do the roof inner. I suppose I can Kingsspan the roof inner at any time if I want.

 

Thanks Rod back to your topic West Kirby Town, apologies for the diversion.

 

I'm also scouse - Mossley Hill but now residing in Worcestershire with frequent trips back up home.

 

Best

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

Whilst I've been a bit quiet on here, I've not been doing nothing!!!

 

Doing the video last time made me think I should get on with the scenery and the buildings at the back are coming on so I thought the platform should be finished first.  Here's a couple of pics of where I'm up to as of 7.45 tonight:

 

 

 

In the pics, you can see 3 off-white patches towards the outer end of the platform.  That's where I did some touching up - filling up depressions that I hadn't noticed when I first put the cinders down (the tarmac is, in fact, very fine cinders - I'm not sure by whom but it was a green packet: Woodland Scenics, perhaps?)  The patches are the still-wet PVA water mix - the white blobs are PVA which somehow didn't mix!  However, they'll dry off OK.

 

The bigger smudge at the station building end is where I put some talcum powder on it months ago to try and give it a less-than-pristine look.  It didn't really work, but as that bit is under the canopy, it's not really visible!!

 

I cut scale 3'x2' paving slabs from thin plasticard and glued them along the edge of the platform: they weren't all exactly the same size (!!) so I've tried to keep the better ones at the front platform and the others at the rear where they're not so obvious!!  I painted those slabs with a concrete colour and, when that was dry, filled in the space between with the cinders.  Unfortunately, as I was levelling off the cinders (with a steel ruler) some of the paint came off, so they need repainting: it's not very obvious on the pics, but in real-life, it is!!

 

I was fortunate in finding a spray bottle with a very fine spray (it originally held glasses cleaning fluid!!) so the surface was level when I came to put on the 50/50 PVA/water - with a drop of washing up liquid -  mix.  The depressions I filled in today were also not helped by me being impatient and pressing too hard before everything was properly set!!!

 

At Doncaster I bought 5 of Peter Clark's station lamps.  They are non-working - I'd have liked them to be, but I have to get on with making it look like a railway overall - details can be added later.  Here they are in their unpainted state:

 

 

I'm planning to glue them in, but won't do that until I've got the backscene buildings in place - they'll be too easy to knock out/over.  However, I can still drill the holes when everything's properly dry and just stand them up.  First thing, though, is to paint them.

 

And finally, this is the view of the rest of the layout when I'm working on the platform:

 

 

The pink plastic bowl and the white plastic tub are to catch the water if and when it rains in!!  I've just accepted a quote to have the roof refelted and  that should be done in a couple of weeks.

 

So, that's where I'm up to so far.  More soon.

 

Rod

 

 

[muddys-blues]

Hi Rod, sorry to hear the roof is giving you problems, hope all gets sorted soon.

 

Best regards

Craig.

[MarshLane]

Hi Rod,

All looking good. Sorry to hear about the roof, but let's hope for your sake refelting it solves the problem. That view with the DMUs and the 50 looks superb! Well done, it's coming together very nicely!

 

Rich

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

Warning - photo overload tonight!!!

 

Things are progressing: the platform surface is almost finished: I've still got the white lines to paint, but I'm leaving that for a few more days until the concrete paint is really dry - I don't want masking tape pulling it off!!  Cue photos:

 

 

 

In addition, the platform lamps have now been painted: they're actually Rail Grey(!!) and the lamps are white but the contrast isn't too good in the pic.  I'm going to mount them in wooden blocks as a temporary fitting measure:

 

 

The backscene buildings are coming on, too.  They're being built by Paul Davenport, trading as Streetscene Models.  I came across him at Doncaster this year and liked the look of the buildings he had on his stand.  I contacted him after the Show and the results are in the next 3 pics.  Obviously unfinished, but there's enough to show the quality:

 

   

 

For comparison, here are a couple of pics from a site visit  4 years ago.  We're not trying to get scale models, but to capture the feel of them.  Because of the shape of the space I've got to fill, the buildings on the left of the prototype (first picture) will be in the middle of the row on the model and there will be another block of the gable ended ones to finish the row at the right-hand end of the model.  The total length is about 9'.

 

 

 

Paul is happy for me to put these on here and I've agreed he can put them on his Facebook page.

 

As I said, things are moving.  More soon.

 

 

Rod

[muddys-blues]

Good afternoon Rod it's all looking good, I really do like the buildings you have got for the back scene.

 

Best regards

Craig

[MarshLane]

HI Rod,

Good progress. Like the flowerbeds on the platform!  I assume there is a cup for 'Best station gardens competition winner' in the booking office!!!

 

Like those houses as well, as you say, they capture the area and atmosphere of the originals well, without being a specific copy.  Excellent  Can't wait to see them in place!

 

Rich

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

A bit more progress:  I've drilled some holes for the platform lights and fitted them with Blutack.  It means they're not as straight as I'd like, but they're there now.  When I've got the backscene fitted, I'll glue them in.  Pctures follow:  empty station first, then with some stock.

 

 

 

Still need to do the white lines and weather the flowerbeds and paving stones but it's coming on.

 

More soon.

 

 

Rod

[leopardml2341]

Could you drill and then fit a tube in the platform, so the lamp standards could be removed if necessary whilst still keeping them perpendicular when in situ?

 

Just a thought

Edited September 22, 2016 by leopardml2341

[Simond]

If you can fit a tube that goes through the platform and through the baseboard, it will ease the fitting of working lights at some point.

 

Best

Simon

[Dmudriver]

Thanks for your comments, Andy and Simon.  I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that!!

 

I've found a piece of tube that the lamp posts fit into but it's too short for 5.  I'll get some more at the local model shop tomorrow.

 

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

West Kirby Town has a new loco!!  A Class 25 to replace the 33 that was reallocated to another shed (or it might have been a loft, or hobby room .....  !!)  I took delivery of it today.  It's still awaiting drivers - one for each end but it'll run on the layout as it is.  It's also switched to operate on either DCC or DC, the latter in case I want to run it on the Club's layout - which I did this afternoon (at the head of 11 bogie coaches!).

 

Here are some pictures:

 

   

 

I also did a video but it wasn't very good so I scrapped it: will do another in the next few days.

 

The loco is from a JLTRT kit, with 2x ABC diesel bogie gearboxes and built by a friend for me.  The chip is an ESU v4.0 XL, with a large speaker from DC Kits.  **  The sound system is South West Digital's U-drive+ and is taking a bit of getting used to but it's rather impressive: you can get full thrash whilst keeping the speed low, amongst other things.  I'll try and show that on the video.

 

In case anyone says "the headcode's wrong": no, it isn't and I've got photographic evidence of 25275 with just those 4 dots!!  I just wanted something a bit different!!

 

I'm really chuffed (inappropriate word!!) pleased with it!

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

 

 

**   Link here:  http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/dcc_digital_loco_sounds/legomanbiffo_7mm_o_gauge_diesel_electric_sounds/high_quality_speakers_enclosures_harnesses_for_7mm_o_gauge/supersound_mega_bass_reflex_meb4510021_4_.php

Edited September 24, 2016 by Dmudriver

[PjKing1]

Nice addition to the fleet Rod it's all coming along really nicely 

 

keep up the great work and looking forward to the next video.

 

Cheers

[Simond]

Twin ABC's? I presume you must have a house that you want to be able to pull down?!!?!?!

 

Has to be worth the experiment when you go to the club. What will it actually pull? More than 11, I'd bet.

 

Some years back, I used to be the sparky on the late Ken Stansfield's Swanage - he had a massive outdoor oval, and we tried some silly-big trains. My 52xx (Crailcrest and weighs a scale 125t) pulled fifty-some, and was beaten by an S15, but only by three or four trucks more. T'was a sight to see! We didn't have sound in those days!

 

Best

Simon

[two tone green]

Twin ABC's? I presume you must have a house that you want to be able to pull down?!!?!?!

 

Has to be worth the experiment when you go to the club. What will it actually pull? More than 11, I'd bet.

 

Some years back, I used to be the sparky on the late Ken Stansfield's Swanage - he had a massive outdoor oval, and we tried some silly-big trains. My 52xx (Crailcrest and weighs a scale 125t) pulled fifty-some, and was beaten by an S15, but only by three or four trucks more. T'was a sight to see! We didn't have sound in those days!

 

Best

Simon

 

Was it in black and white as well and Ovaltine was still on ration.

[Simond]

Scary... I think it would have been the summer of 1999, we had converted Ken's layout to DCC, using Lenz kit. The available decoders were.... Let's just say, not very good, by today's standards. We had progresses to video from cine, and digital video had just hit the shelves, but was so expensive that we got a new analog camera when my lad was born in '98. It's all so last century...

 

Best

Simon

[Dmudriver]

Hi Simon.

 

"Twin ABC's? I presume you must have a house that you want to be able to pull down?!!?!?! 

Has to be worth the experiment when you go to the club. What will it actually pull? More than 11, I'd bet."

 

The loco is built from a JLTRT kit which, as you'll be aware, are a bit light.  A few weeks/couple of month ago, I said that a pal had lent me 2 of his 25s - both from JLTRT kits and both with single powered bogies - and neither of them would satisfactorily pull my 4 Heljan Mark 1s.  They would with a bit of thrash but that's not how I want to start trains on my layout, particularly with a 10 mph limit in station limits.  Double headed, they were fine.  He had found the same and had put double powered bogies in his next loco (a 24, I think).  Plus, I want to run it on "Apethorne Junction" where 5 coach trains are the norm - and long freights.   Hence the 2 powered bogies.  There's no extra weight in the body but I find 4 powered axles with the weight evenly balanced out between them is more than satisfactory.

 

Possibly it would pull more than 11 but I'm more concerned about smooth starting and acceleration.  It's behaved perfectly on my layout today: I've had 3 of the operators from "Apethorne" round for a play operating session - 10.45 until 5, with an hour in the pub at lunchtime!!!  It's surprising how much operational interest this layout has!!

 

I've added in the 03 scuttling off to the fiddle yard for a tanker to replenish the fuel supply, plus the inspection salon brought the bosses round and the 131 doing quick entry, turnround and exits!!  Add in 2 trains in the platforms and a steam special - there's plenty to do!!

 

 

Rod

[HealeyMills]

The loco is built from a JLTRT kit which, as you'll be aware, are a bit light.  A few weeks/couple of month ago, I said that a pal had lent me 2 of his 25s - both from JLTRT kits and both with single powered bogies - and neither of them would satisfactorily pull my 4 Heljan Mark 1s.  They would with a bit of thrash but that's not how I want to start trains on my layout, particularly with a 10 mph limit in station limits. 

 

Hi Rod,

 

I thought that 'really was like the real thing'?  Did you try adding any weight to the locos before adding another power bogie per chance to see what they would pull? 

 

That is a very nice looking 25 and I'm pleased to see you adding oddities like strange headcodes too.... something out of the norm makes for a much more interesting railway.

 

Cheers

Lee