How do I test O gauge/7mm scale locos?

[ChooChoo_Baloo]

Hello All,

 

I am relatively new to O gauge modelling. I have mainly built wagons, but recently built my first locomotive - a Southern G6 tank engine. I don't have any O gauge track to test my rolling stock on.

 

Testing the motor and general running of the chassis was done with an old Hornby OO gauge controller, with the bare wire ends pushed against the inside of the wheel rims, on the upside down chassis.

 

I wasn't content with this method of loco. testing. Please could members advise me:

• are rolling roads a worthwhile investment for testing 7mm scale locos, or best get a length of track instead, or both!?
  
• Are there analogue controllers designed specififcally for O gauge, or are OO gauge ones fine? If this is the case, I presume that O and OO gauge locomotive motors run off of the same voltages/current?
  

As I say I am a relative beginner, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards,

[Poggy1165]

A rolling road is probably a good investment, or even a couple of lengths of track. Alternatively if you haven't a friend with a 7mm layout, try visiting an exhibition with a 7mm scale test track. The GOG and ALSRM events usually have one.

 

An OO controller may not have quite enough amps for O Gauge, though it depends to an extent on the size of motor you are using. Obviously, the more powerful the motor the more power it tends to draw. Generally modern O Gauge locos work off 12 volts DC like OO ones. Unless you are kitted out for DCC of course...

[jamie92208]

I use a rolling road (an integral part of the Masterchassis assembly Jig) to bed my chassis's in when first built. However there is no substitute for testing on a layout as there are often problems with clearances on curves. It helps to test on a track with a radius 6" less than your layout as this allows for wobbles when running. There are often clearnace problems on curves with bogie/pony wheels contacting the frames and or slide bars/cylinders. One solution to this is to put a thin layer of araldite on the outside face of bogie wheels when they have been painted and lined.

 

I once had a friend run his locos on my layout which has 6' radius curves. They all needed modifications to become reliable as his layout mainly straight with gentle curves. These mainly involved lengthening the tender drawbars.

 

If you join the Gauge O Guild the Newsheet gives details of many clubs that have regular running sessions on their test tracks to which vistors are welcome.

 

Jamie

[Kenton]

I use a rolling road for OO but for O and N use a simple length of 1m of flexitrack (it isn't that expensive compared to a rolling road) which has been glued to a length of wood and set up with an auto reverser circuit. It sits happy on a shelf above my workbench and it runs a test loco back and forth for an hour or so or until the noise irritates me.

 

I use an old Gaugemaster control broken out of a 'D' that has been reboxed with a T1 transformer. It hasn't blown up yet.

 

The only drawback to this and rolling roads is that it doesn't seriously test the loco on curves. Due probably to the increased mass of 7mm locos and their less tolerating like for sharp curves over their 4mm and 2mm sisters a test on an oval is worthwhile.

 

Also, if like me you find clubs not very nice places to frequent, then at the O gauge shows (Reading, Bristol) there is often a big oval test track. Although they may not/probably will not let you have control, they will run it round the test track under really testing conditions.

[N15class]

I would recoment a rolling road and a test track with a reverse curve and a point in it.

 

The rolling road because it can be used whilst adjusting the chassis as it can be used right in front of you.

 

The test track for the reasons above, it sorts out the clearance problems.

[Donw]

A rolling road can be useful but also a test track with a crossover in it plus enough track either end for a loco plus one coach. This can show up many problems such as shorts occuring.

Don

[mikeg]

I have a 'mustard' rolling road and my latest loco, an 8F worked well on it for half an hour in each direction, took it to the club and although it ran on the straights would not run on the curve 7ft rad, the problem turned out to be the side play on the leading wheels allowing the crankpin to hit the crosshead, more filing to remove the back of the crosshead, the kit instructions say to remove .25mm but I think it should have said 0.5mm. The morral is rolling roads are good for running in but you do need as said above a section of track with curves in to test the loco.

 

As to controller it depends mainly as to the motors you use, I use an old H&M minor for testing but at the club we have 5amp controllers as the Gaugemaster ones for O expired when used with Heljan locos, also some of the locos used on the club layout have large MSC units and draw upto 2.5amps when starting, so I would advise getting one that will give at least 3amps there are several available.

 

regards

 

mike g

[ChooChoo_Baloo]

Thanks guys.

[gwrman]

Hi, I use the saddle type which you put on the track under each wheel, I've got these ones you buy as many as you need.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G0ins-Insulated-Rolling-Road-Gauge-0-32mm-7mm-Scale-Loco-NOW-ADJUSTABLE-/220993974474?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item33744470ca

 

Nigel

[Kenton]

Also spotted recently are saddles from N-Brass (but you have to build them yourself - well you can solder can't you? so why not?) They seemed to work fine on the demo stand and seem a reasonable price. I think they can be used for both O and OO (or anything in between) just change the gauge.