scott_efc Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hwllo chaps. I bought an old Lima class 50 off eBay from someone who had no clue on locos etc. Got it at a cheap price as it was for a project. Basically i put power to it and it didnt run. So i opened it up and found all the gubbins as seen in the photo below. At first i thought it was some kind of dcc chip but quickly realised it probably wasnt. The loco has a metal switch fitted to the bottom of it but again no clue what that is for. Any ideas what i have here chaps? Help greatly appreciated. Cheers, Scott. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Looks like a Zero One chip, the predecessor of DCC and not compatible with modern DCC. No Idea what the switch is for. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_efc Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Looks like a Zero One chip, the predecessor of DCC and not compatible with modern DCC. No Idea what the switch is for. That would explain why when i tried to programme it in the vague hope it might be a dcc chip it didnt work! I will have to go and see how to go about removing it. Cheers for that, Scott. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyC Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 This is a pure guess. Has it possibly been fitted with a Hornby Zero1 decoder plus a changeover switch to allow selecting that or straight DC operation. [i seem to remember some mention on RMweb that Zero1 decoders only had 3 wires] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_efc Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 This is a pure guess. Has it possibly been fitted with a Hornby Zero1 decoder plus a changeover switch to allow selecting that or straight DC operation. [i seem to remember some mention on RMweb that Zero1 decoders only had 3 wires] Thats exactly what i assumed the switch was there for but having switched the switch both ways and tried it on dc etc i get nothing. Will have to just rip it all out and start from scratch. Cheers again, Scott. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzgresleyfan Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Definitely Zero 1. As you say, best bet is to rip it out and start again. Probably fried now after being zapped with DC anyway!!! Interesting to see the change-over switch in there, when I was using Zero 1 this was always a big no-no. Perhaps it was a ploy to prevent people defecting back to DC? Ah, happy days! Maybe I should get it all out of the boxes again... Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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