gwrman Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Hi, has anyone used self adhesive mounting card for Scalescenes Kits, it's available in different sheet sizes, 1mm thick and different colours. http://www.ebay.co.u...-All-Categories Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tel2010 Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Hi Nigel Seem a little expensive against cost of 50 A4 self adhesive labels for around £4 off ebay,which i used ,I also tried out A4 gray board, eight sheets for £1.90 Tel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I have also tried self adhesive labels, the problem I found is that the is no room for error in sticking down, where as with pva or stick glues you can re-position if required, I would imagine the same problem would apply with self adhesive card. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I've said it before, will say it again....I use A4 sticky labels (Rymans, Staples) on plasticard, no problems fixing them down; if I notice the label going askew I just peel back abit and try again. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Harbour Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Dumb question Stewart - what thickness plasticard do you use? Do you model in OO scale or N? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 I model in 00, and use a a thickness of about 1mm for everything. Now this causes some problems of assembly where the kit has been designed to be used with different thickness of card, but none of this is insurmountable. For instance, there may be a window opening, with fold-around tabs to go through the hole. 2 problems thus occur. 1) the card is a different thickness; I can usually live with the discrepancy, , or if thicker is needed then add a sliver of plastikard to build it up before wrapping the label over it, & 2) cutting out the window opening - no problem here even though the printed label is already stuck down, it can easily be peeled back, the window opening cut out, and the label wrapped round through the hole. Assembly is easy using MekPak or similar, much easier to assemble than card,. Strong too, and as I use them in the garage there is no problem of damp. I also seal the finished model by painting with a matt varnish, from B&Q or similar. Try one of the free downloads, it is worth a go. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pint of Pedigree Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I too use Rymans' A4 sticky labels and find them much better to use than sheets of paper stuck with a Pritt stick. The label paper is much thinner than printer paper, which minimises the colouring in of any exposed edges, and they are quicker and cleaner to use (no sticky fingers). Contrary to Campaman, I find that you can peel them back if misaligned when first placed on the card - it's only after they are firmly pressed down that they become immovable, although it may depend upon the card you use. I use high quality picture mount which has a very smooth finish enhancing "pealability" and cuts very cleanly. Pint of Pedigree Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickt Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I've used Daler/Rowney self adhesive repositionable mount board - it works for me. I find it tricky to get complete coverage with Pritt-type glue and using PVA can be messy and can discolour the printed areas if used too liberally. Once correctly positioned, a quick roll with a wallpaper seam roller produces a firmly stuck smooth finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Right think I have confused people with the problem I find, any sheets that are stuck as a full sheet to the card is fine on sticky label, I also tried them for the cover layer sheets that you have to wrap the base layers with, these are what I found difficult to work with. I now use A4 label sheets for sticking all sheets that are stuck directly to A4 card, but use pritt or pva for wrapping layers. Hope that's clearer... And the card I use is a mixture of grey board, and smooth white mount board. Thanks Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic21 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Are these the labels of choice?? http://www.ryman.co.uk/0220010460/Ryman-Address-Labels-P1-Universal-289x205mm-A4-25-Sheets/Product Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Are these the labels of choice?? http://www.ryman.co....-Sheets/Product Cheers Rob Certainly look like the ones I use! Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 I have generally stuck to plastic structures in the past but the quality of Scalescenes appeals to me. Does anyone have any photos available of finished models constructed using printed labels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I have generally stuck to plastic structures in the past but the quality of Scalescenes appeals to me. Does anyone have any photos available of finished models constructed using printed labels? See the Halwill Goods Shed thread in the 2012 scratchbuilt challenge - I used sticky labels, printed with Scalescenes images, on plastic card. I found that you really had to wraparound generously to stop the sticky labels from lifting at the edges, so you can't really use "just enough" to cover (which is what I do with plastic). Although this may not be the case when you mount self-adhesive labels onto card instead of plastic. F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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