chaz Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) I recall an article where the author used 4mm screw couplings as tensioners for a container on a flat wagon - might have been Derek Mundy - probably GOG Gazette. Best Simon It may well have been but the article I saw was by Martyn Welch and was in MRJ. Like him I used 4mm screw couplings, but these are non-working representations - that is they don't have a tightening screw, but merely look the part (and would function as couplings). You can just make out the tensioners (easiest on the nearest chain to the camera). I have some 7mm screw couplings that do actually work but they are rather oversized for the chaining job. I'm not aware of any working ones in 4mm. Edited April 11, 2014 by chaz 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 How about just making some: not so difficult?David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 How about just making some: not so difficult? David If, as I suspect, that (very nice) wagon is 7mm then your tensioners look like 7mm screw couplings to me - or at least much the same size. The ones on my model are from 4mm screw couplings. Now I'm not saying that 4mm screw couplings sized tensioners can't be made to work - just that I don't think I want to try. I decided against 7mm sized tensioners as these would (IMHO) be out of scale for both the load and the chains. I think this conversation has run its course so if you don't mind I will say nothing further about the chained load. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 "... your tensioners look like 7mm screw couplings to me - or at least much the same size" No, actually, I made them from scratch - wire and rod drilled for more wire - and they are quite a bit smaller that 7mm screw couplings - I scaled them off a drawing. Thank you for the compliments about my Rectank, though. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 (edited) Hi Chaz, When next at Telford (or similar event) look for the CPL stand... I provided Pat Legg with the GWR drawing for "Binding Chains" which were used for tensioning loads such as in the photos on this thread - Pat has introduced the appropriate 7mm version into the CPL range. regards, Graham Edited April 18, 2014 by Western Star Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Hi Chaz, When next at Telford (or similar event) look for the CPL stand... I provided Pat Legg with the GWR drawing for "Binding Chains" which were used for tensioning loads such as in the photos on this thread - Pat has introduced the appropriate 7mm version into the CPL range. regards, Graham Thanks for the info' Graham. As I am taking Dock Green to Telford in September this will afford me a good chance to investigate these. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) Chaz, I remebered where I had read a review of the chains and screw couplings... with illustrations of parts and usage... I hope that you find this link of interest. http://www.raymondwalley.com/misc/other/shackles.html regards, Graham Edited April 21, 2014 by Western Star Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Chaz, I remebered where I had read a review of the chains and screw couplings... with illustrations of parts and usage... I hope that you find this link of interest. http://www.raymondwalley.com/misc/other/shackles.html regards, Graham Thanks for the link Graham. having read through the text and studied the photos it is quite clear that the tensioners are non-working - that is there is no threaded part which can be used to tighten the chains, just a (very nice) representation of one. I quote - "The hook that fits directly on to the shackle will need to be filed to shape a little to ensure that it will go through the links in the chain or one will not be able to shorten it to fit as in the prototype. (sic) Getting them tight is a tad fiddly but by gluing the springs units together after shortening the chain by using the hook on the shackle it is possible to get them tight." I'm not very clear about what this means - probably a lot easier to understand with the parts to hand. However fiddling about with chain links or "spring units" and glue is no substitute for a set of proper threaded tensioners. That's how the prototype chains were tightened. To make these you need to be able to make or buy threaded rods with a standard thread on one end and a LH thread on the other. And 12BA is probably going to be oversize - a task quite beyond me. But enough now - I have more important stuff to do before Telford - at least three locos that need attention so that they can be used at the show. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) An addition to the list of Dock Green's next outings... Sat' 6th & Sun' 7th September 2014 Guildex at Telford Sun' 19th October 2014 CSGOG one-day show at Wimborne Sat' 29th November 2014 SHMRC one-day show at the Admiral Lord Nelson School in Portsmouth The team agreed that we would only "do" one-day shows that are within 30 miles or so of home. Portsmouth is within range. Sat' 24th & Sun' 25th January 2015 Southampton Model Railway Society show at Barton Peverill College in Eastleigh Chaz Edited April 23, 2014 by chaz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 It may well have been but the article I saw was by Martyn Welch and was in MRJ. Like him I used 4mm screw couplings, but these are non-working representations - that is they don't have a tightening screw, but merely look the part (and would function as couplings). You can just make out the tensioners (easiest on the nearest chain to the camera). I have some 7mm screw couplings that do actually work but they are rather oversized for the chaining job. I'm not aware of any working ones in 4mm. Chaz, I just found the article to which I referred, by chance (pile of Gazettes in "small office") - the tensioners were from CPL, and the article was by Raymond Walley. Gazette volume 17, number 12, pp 26, 27. Best Simon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 It may well have been but the article I saw was by Martyn Welch and was in MRJ. Like him I used 4mm screw couplings, but these are non-working representations - that is they don't have a tightening screw, but merely look the part (and would function as couplings). You can just make out the tensioners (easiest on the nearest chain to the camera). I have some 7mm screw couplings that do actually work but they are rather oversized for the chaining job. I'm not aware of any working ones in 4mm. Chaz, I just found the article to which I referred, by chance (pile of Gazettes in "small office") - the tensioners were from CPL, and the article was by Raymond Walley. Gazette volume 17, number 12, pp 26, 27. Looks like Graham & Raymond already got there! Best Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 (edited) Some time ago a forum member showed some interest in the rolling stock running on Dock Green. If there is any appetite for this I will happily post some snaps of various wagons together with a note or two on the prototype and the kit. If you'd like this just click "like" on this posting and I will get the camera out. Chaz OK - that's one six seven ten sixteen twenty (!) votes - how could I deny such enthusiasm? I will start posting snaps of the stock soon. WTS. Edited June 5, 2014 by chaz 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 Enough, boys and girls. Your wish will be granted. Soon. Chaz 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) OK, here's the first of series of postings featuring the rolling stock which might be seen in the yard at Dock Green. This is an LNER standard 20T brake van, built from the excellent Connoisseur kit. The underframes include a rocking compensator supporting the axle at one end. I'm not sure if this is strictly necessary with 7mm FS wheel and track standards - I have one or two wagons which are not compensated and they seem to be no more likely to derail. I think this was my first etched brass wagon kit and like all the kits from Connoisseur that I have built it went together well. The photograph is merciless at showing up the lack of glass in the ducket window - no opening behind either - WOOPS - all I will say is that it scarcely notices when the van is in position on the layout. I have just realised how old this photo must be - the van still had 3-link couplings - quite early on (long before Dock Green was started) I fitted the stock with Dingham couplings. Chaz Edited June 2, 2014 by chaz 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Chaz Please do let us in on your painting & weathering techniques - buffers & coupling - powders or drybrush, or ...? And, how would you have glazed the duckets ? (I'm curious, but as my theme is GW, no more than that!) Thx Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Chaz Please do let us in on your painting & weathering techniques - buffers & coupling - powders or drybrush, or ...? And, how would you have glazed the duckets ? (I'm curious, but as my theme is GW, no more than that!) Thx Simon The buffers and coupling hook (since removed to fit Dinghams) were dry-brushed. I've never tried weathering powders, being happy with dry-brushing for most weathering (but look at the next wagon for one use of a powder) . I only use air-brushing for a general (and gentle) toning down or a subtle haze of soot etc. IMHO air-brush weathering can look very unconvincing. Glazing the duckets? I don't know how which is probably why I haven't done so. Because of the way the duckets in this kit (and many others) have been cast in white-metal it would not be easy to get a convincing result. glueing the glazing across the whole outside face and then adding a thin shim with the glass shape cut out might work but it might be difficult to hide the edges. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) BR 16T mineral wagon from a Parkside plastic kit. I like the Parkside kits - they fit together well and are reasonably robust for an exhibition layout - although I have had a few axleboxes come adrift. The plastic box must be glued onto the brass wheel bearing without locking up the sliding bearing plate in the W-iron, so the temptation is to use as little glue as possible - so sometimes not enough. I put the grey and black livery on with an airbrush. After this has had plenty of time to harden right off I dry-brush the rust and dirt on. I am particularly pleased with the "scabby" rust along the bottom edge of the sides etc. I did this by painting rust colours on along the edges, a little more generously - wet brushing! I then "waft" talcum powder on by dropping it onto the surface from a brush and gently blowing it across the wet paint. Once the paint has had time to dry the excess powder can be blown away and the textured surface dry-brushed if necessary with further rust colours. The BR painter who put that black number patch onto the wagon has hands as unsteady as mine! Yet again the camera takes no prisoners. Chaz Edited June 2, 2014 by chaz 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 (edited) I wanted a few wagons with tarpaulins fitted. This one was built from one of the Coopercraft range, good kits with excellent mouldings but I bought mine (I have several) before they became part of the Slater's catalogue and at that time they were sold without wheels and with moulded plastic buffers. I used Peco buffers and put the axles into WEP etched brass compensators. The tarpaulin is a black paper one, sold in packs of three, pre-printed with numbers and BR branding. I added black button thread through grommets punched from thin card (I must have been mad). I crumpled the paper up several times to get a well-used fabric look. The "ropes" were tied to any convenient projections including the buffer housings. This was against the rules and wagons had roping hooks to avoid the need - however there is plenty of photographic evidence in books to suggest that it was a widespread practice. I locked my knots in place with superglue. I suspect that the wagon, a GWR one like all the small Coopercraft 7mm range, is a pre-grouping vehicle and an unlikely survivor in the late fifties but it looks the part. I replaced the GWR brake gear on this model with Moreton (?) brakes. Again this photo was taken quite a while ago, in this case before the wagon received couplings. The paper tarpaulin has since faded from the original black to a pinkish grey but still looks acceptable to my eye. Chaz Edited June 3, 2014 by chaz 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Lovely work Chaz. And, how would you have glazed the duckets ? (I'm curious, but as my theme is GW, no more than that!) Glazing the duckets? I don't know how which is probably why I haven't done so. Because of the way the duckets in this kit (and many others) have been cast in white-metal it would not be easy to get a convincing result. glueing the glazing across the whole outside face and then adding a thin shim with the glass shape cut out might work but it might be difficult to hide the edges. For small windows it's pretty simple. Microscale, who make the useful Microsol and Microset for bedding down transfers/decals, also produce a liquid glazing material. Sorry, can't show my efforts as everything is still in storage from the flood, but here's a YouTube video showing the simple technique, and the results can be better seen in the quarterlights of this Scammell by Chris Nevard. I find larger openings tend to be less successful as the liquid film is stretched and thus thinner in the centre causing a slightly concave effect as it dries, but I prefer glass microscope coverslips for those anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I've used garden-variety PVA, one time when I'd lost the bottle, to similar effect to Microscale liquid glazing. Technique takes a bit to get a handle of but for smaller windows (up to, say, a square centimetre at the maximum), it's quite effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I wish my Connoisseur toad looked that good . An alternative glazing technique, which I considered but didn't do, would be to cut a strip of perspex or similar to fit in the slot in the ducket casting which forms the windows, and polish the ends. I think the liquid glazing would be easier though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Lovely work Chaz. For small windows it's pretty simple. Microscale, who make the useful Microsol and Microset for bedding down transfers/decals, also produce a liquid glazing material. Sorry, can't show my efforts as everything is still in storage from the flood, but here's a YouTube video showing the simple technique, and the results can be better seen in the quarterlights of this Scammell by Chris Nevard. I find larger openings tend to be less successful as the liquid film is stretched and thus thinner in the centre causing a slightly concave effect as it dries, but I prefer glass microscope coverslips for those anyway. Thanks for the comment. As for the Microscale liquid glazing material - I know people do find it works well but I've never had much success with it. I did try using it to glaze the spectacles on a 4mm tank engine which I worked on for a mate but I wasn't that happy with the results. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 I wish my Connoisseur toad looked that good . An alternative glazing technique, which I considered but didn't do, would be to cut a strip of perspex or similar to fit in the slot in the ducket casting which forms the windows, and polish the ends. If I were going to do that I think I would fit the glazing before I added the duckets to the van sides - but that would rule out soldering and would certainly make painting trickier. "I wish my Connoisseur toad looked that good" Thanks. As the Connoisseur kits go together so well I assume it's the paint that you are unhappy with? Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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