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will it work


caradis

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Hello all

 

After much thinking and planning for my next project and finding a 7 ft by 25 inch board under my current (soon to be "adjusted") model railway i'm just wondering if this would be a suitable track layout.post-15357-0-65619000-1345217437_thumb.png

I plan for this to be a small(ish) oo gauge shunting/dock layout some where in central Scotland using hand built track and possibly a 009 gauge as a internal railway in one of the industrys. The main loop in the bottom left corner is for the exchange between main line and the shunting locos which will be 0-4-0s and the occasional 0-6-0.

Any suggestions are welcome :)

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Hi

 

Well what i was thinking that at least one of the lines would be for a loco stand point/ shed therefore having only 5 sidings that would serve the local industrys. Also this dock/shunting yard would be possibly be situated at the end of a urban branch so there would only be fairly short trains but i have amended the plan as follows

post-15357-0-50802400-1345236276_thumb.png

Thanks :)

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Hello all

 

After much thinking and planning for my next project and finding a 7 ft by 25 inch board under my current (soon to be "adjusted") model railway i'm just wondering if this would be a suitable track layout.

 

Excuse the silly question. You mention a board of 7ft x 2ft 1in. But the plan appears to be for a much longer layout. Am I missing something as there seems an awful lot of track for the area? Maths never did like me.

 

Eric

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Mmm - 7 feet length, 14 grid squares - 6" (15 centimeter) grid.

 

Since you cannot use the turnout at the left end of the mainline loop anyways (no room for even a loco to the left of the loop), why not just extend the loop to the left end of the board, and just postulate that the loop ends somewhere off the left end of the board? Would give you 24" (60 centimeters) of extra space for inbound or outbound exchange cars.

 

Smile,

Stein

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Hello maunsel

 

the board i have is 2175 mm (~7ft 1 1/2inch) by 635 mm (~2ft 1 inch) also bearing in mind this will be a 00 gauge shunting layout using hand built track and i shall be using an 0-4-0st or two with only a few wagons but in regards to your comment i have rechecked my plan in templot using the ruler feature and i even triple checked (that'll be a first ;) ) by printing out the plan and i'm happy to say that it all fits :)

 

Cheers

BC

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directly related to this layout would it be possible to get one tortoise point motor to change both ends of a slip road on a double slip?

Possible but wrong, the prototype ends of a slip work independently. But each end, if operated from a cabin, may be part of a crossover which can be worked together. This applies to both ends of the slip in the example above, and there is one other crossover as well. But in this layout most likely all would have their individual hand levers.

Arranging for a tortoise to work both ends of a crossover means changing the operating method and adding some below baseboard rodding, worth it though with the price of tortoises.

Regards

Keith

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Since you cannot use the turnout at the left end of the mainline loop anyways (no room for even a loco to the left of the loop)

 

 

Hello stein, This turnout will be attached to a fiddle yard there for allowing a loco to run around ;)

 

Cheers

BC

 

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Hello Keith, as you said not prototypical but i dont really see the point (sorrry :) ) of having only one end of the slip connected to the point motor as:A, you will need to switch the other end any way and B, cuts down on the cost of buying more than one motor

 

Cheers

BC

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hello Keith, as you said not prototypical but i dont really see the point (sorrry :) ) of having only one end of the slip connected to the point motor as:A, you will need to switch the other end any way and B, cuts down on the cost of buying more than one motor

Cheers

BC

If both ends are worked by the same motor you will lose flexibility in the movements.

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  • RMweb Gold
would it be possible to get one tortoise point motor to change both ends of a slip road on a double slip?

 

Hi caradis,

 

You can link one end of a slip to another turnout, but not to the other end of the same slip.

 

i.e. One tortoise motor can drive both sets of points A, and another one can drive both sets of points B -- this would be the usual prototypical arrangement if worked from a signal box:

 

post-1103-0-46989000-1345416545_thumb.png

 

But arranging the linkages will be a bit of a pain. In a shunting yard most sets of points are worked individually by hand levers. This also gives you the greatest flexibility to leave the odd wagon or two parked over a turnout while shunting.

 

4 tortoise motors in close proximity shall be quite a challenge although it might be possible.

 

You need only 2 tortoise motors for a slip -- one at each end. All the blades (points) at each end move together.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

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Hello Martin,

 

Thanks for that info as i didn't know that :) i am more than likely to go with your method of operating both points at one end of the slip using one motor as this will save on the cost of motors and reduce the complications of rods and pulleys but leave the outer points as individually controlled.

 

Cheers

BC

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  • RMweb Gold

 

You need only 2 tortoise motors for a slip -- one at each end. All the blades (points) at each end move together.

Martin.

 

Amend second sentence to read 'All the blades (points) at each end usually move together. (although as far as modellers are concerned it is almost inevitable that they will).

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  • RMweb Gold
Amend second sentence to read 'All the blades (points) at each end usually move together.

 

True. However, if they don't move together the double slip has to be designed such that there is room between the wing rail fronts for both blades to stand open at the same time. This is usually the case on a prototype slip (just about), as it may necessary during maintenance, even if they normally work together.

 

But on a model other than P4, S7, etc, the switch opening is normally arranged to be much wider than the prototype, otherwise there won't be a full flangeway clearance all along behind the open blade. This means that in 00, etc., there won't be room for both blades to stand open at the same time insulated from each other, unless the slip road is significantly shortened with a corresponding reduction in radius.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

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Back to the plan .. I do not understand why the loop would have been placed separate and out on the main line. I would have expected it to use the nect turnout and extend beyond it to form a small stub siding to the right (protecting the main and suitable for a loco/brake van)

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Hello All,

 

Kenton, I might be able to locate a small head shunt for a guards van above the entrance to the yard with the view that the mainline loco and wagons will come down the branch in to the yard, stop and uncouple the wagons then move down in to the head shunt in front of it to attach to the outgoing train (if any) then the mainline loco and new train will leave the yard via the line on the loop which is free. After that one of the shunting locos would be able to shunt the guards van in to the head shunt and then deliver the wagons to there appropriate destination. I don't plan to keep the mainline locos in the yard for a long time it will just be a case of delivery of wagons and then removal of any that are there to be removed.

 

Cheers

BC

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  • 10 months later...
  • 9 months later...

Hi, I know it's been a while since you posted your ideas for your shunting layout but I'm interested to find out what happened. I'm trying to build my first layout that I want to incorporate the Inglenook shunting layout into but I was also impressed with your idea. I'm thinking of a 7' x 2.6' layout with extra footage for fiddle yard. So, if you have a completed layout plan I'd love to see it and also any pics you have of it.

 

Cheers.

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I reckon with a few tweaks as per my poor scrawlings on the original shown in red and green to reposition  the loop and provide a spur this could be a winner, personally I would use peco streamline and use plenty of short  Y points to save length maybe including 2  back to back instead of a double slip.post-15357-0-65619000-1345217437_thumbre

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