garethashenden Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Fantastic work Ian! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Just for Jerry (who wants to see some completed baulk road in 2FS) ... The whole area of track was sprayed with Precision paints "Sleeper Grime", and once dry the point rodding and FPL were brush painted with PP "Buffer Beam Vermillion". The sides of the rails were given a lick of PP "Track Colour Rust" and once all of that was dry the ballast was added within the 4 foot and along the outside of the baulks and secured with PVA. A finer material was then added along the cess by painting PVA around the stools and sprinkling on the "dust". Obviously all of the loose material was vacuumed off and saved for another day. Close ups of the FPL. I've still got to make and fit the point detector assembly (hence the "bald bit" where the 3 rods will come out to the detector outside the rodding). Now after all of this experimentation has shown what the finished article might look like, I really must get on with the track work on the next baseboard so that I can run some trains at Expo!! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted April 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 27, 2015 Just for me ....awwww shucks :-) Looks fantastic Ian, just screams Edwardian Great Western with nothing else in sight. Look forward to seeing it in the flesh at expo. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Hughes Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Just for Jerry (who wants to see some completed baulk road in 2FS) ... Can the rest of us look too please? It looks superb. Just needs a few of these dotted around and that landscape will be complete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Hi Ian that looks really nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold wenlock Posted April 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 27, 2015 That looks great Ian!:-) I wasn't really sure whether I'd like the red rodding, I think Im so used to seeing it painted rusty black I thought it might look odd. Well done for biting the bullet, you can be sure I'll be following suit on Sherton Abbas! Very impressed with your facing point lock and associated gubbins, it just goes to show that even in 2mm scale it's very noticeable. Best wishes Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 27, 2015 Superb stuff Ian. Once you see it done you realise just how much these details add. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted April 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 27, 2015 Every now and then someone comes along and does something different. Sorry to use an cliché, but what an eye-opener. Beautiful work Ian! The photos show the sense of space too, very nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Superb stuff Ian. Once you see it done you realise just how much these details add. Don Don, Glad you like it. Because the GWR at the period I'm modelling painted the rodding and associated ancillaries "Torbay Bright" red, I feel that they are going to be very noticeable and therefore need to be present and as good as I can make them as they are going to be such a feature of my overall scene. So really I don't have much choice but to try to put in these details - it's somewhat ironic really because my usual view of 2mm scale is that if you can't see it very well at 100 yards (2ft) then you either don't need to put it in or at the very most just put in a suggestion. The more I do the more I feel I need to revise that theory!! So much for my first venture in 2FS being a quickie :-) Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 The more I do the more I feel I need to revise that theory!! So much for my first venture in 2FS being a quickie :-) Ian Been there, done that! Lovely work, Ian. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 27, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 27, 2015 Ian do you know when they stopped painting the rodding red, and was it one all over. I am thinking about my model of Dolgelley (in 7mm) the signalling etc. was revised in 1894 to meet BOT requirements so If they were still doing it at that date I may have to have the GWR half in red. Or was this one of those things the northern parts did differently like Wolverhampton painting locos different. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Ian do you know when they stopped painting the rodding red, and was it one all over. I am thinking about my model of Dolgelley (in 7mm) the signalling etc. was revised in 1894 to meet BOT requirements so If they were still doing it at that date I may have to have the GWR half in red. Or was this one of those things the northern parts did differently like Wolverhampton painting locos different. Don Don, definitely red in 1894. I imagine it lasted until WW1. You can read the full 1894 and 1907 painting instructions at the bottom of this page. One of the main differences between them is the "Ripolin" paints that were introduced in 1897. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted April 28, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 28, 2015 When we were doing a full sized preservation type job back in the 1980s one of those involved decided that various fittings and gear should be painted in accordance with the 1907 GWR Signal Dept Instructions. Being in the civil engineering trade he went to a lot of trouble to find a paint which matched as closely as possible 'Torbay Red' and it was a much duller colour than expected although this might well have been due to the fact that it weathered down very quickly indeed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 28, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 28, 2015 Thanks for the painting info a bit more information than in my old copy of Slinn's GW Way. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Don, The most recent edition of GWW has a lot more information in it (it ought to - it's 4+ times the volume), particularly on the pre-grouping/absorbed lines. The danger with more books like this is that you may or may not already have the additional information contained elsewhere! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 A few weeks ago "Chairman Jim" contacted me to ask whether I could help man the 2mm Roadshow stand at this weekends TINGS (The International N Gauge Show), once I had agreed he said it would be nice to show the punters some of my "unusual" Baulk Road track work. Since the only track I have is actually on Modbury, I thought that if I were to have anything to show that it would need producing specifically for this event. So with that in mind about a week or so ago I made a start. A small "baseboard" was quickly knocked up and a B7 point constructed over a few days. Once again, the Baulks themselves are made from HO sleeper strip superglued directly (this time) onto the baseboard top, the Association plain rail being soldered onto these Baulks to represent Bridge Rail. Again, the Switch and Crossing Vee baulks (being wider than the normal plain line baulks) were milled up from some 1.6mm thick PCB. As an experiment on this point I decided not to pivot the loose heel switches with a pivot pin vertically through the flat bottomed rail that I use for these components, but to drill a 0.5mm hole laterally through the web of the rail and pass a loop of 0.25mm nickel silver (or phosphor bronze - one switch has NS the other has PB) wire which passes through the Switch Baulk through a pair of 0.3mm holes drilled vertically either side of the rail foot. The tails of the loops are twisted together and touched with solder to secure from below. Once complete, the operating wires for the switches were bent up from thin guitar string, which pass below the stock rails to prevent the switches lifting up at the toe end. The tails of these wires are located in vertical brass rod with a 0.4mm hole drilled centrally down it with are in turn attached to the TOU below the baseboard. The completed turnout The TOU also showing the tails of the loops which form the retaining "hinge" of the loose heel switches A view along the track - I took the completed piece along to the Midland Area Group's meeting on Tuesday, the result of which has been to carefully realign the curved closure rail as it was noted that there was a bit of a strange angle between the wing rail and the crossing vee. It's much better now (hopefully the photo shows that!!) So that's it, it's ready to provide a conversation piece at TINGS and hopefully show that in 2FS wheels don't drop into the crossing vees!!! Regards, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted September 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 10, 2015 Very nice Ian. rather good of you to take that trouble for the roadshow. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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