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Portable Baseboards


seaneyg

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Welcome aboard. This is quite a frequent topic, so the search mechanism is your friend (see top right of any page, but make sure you select 'Google Site Search'). Personally, I prefer 50mm extruded polystyrene foam with a 4mm ply facing. An alternative lightweight construction method is 4mm or 6mm ply sandwich beams with softwood spacers, though that needs a bit more woodworking skill.

 

Try these topics for a start:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57647-baseboard-construction-techniques/

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/46161-knauf-pink-polyfoam-space-board-insulation-boards/

 

though there are many others.

 

Nick

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Oh dear! How long is a piece of string? In order to be able to offer advice we need a lot more information - scale? size? Height from the floor? how is it to be joined to your current layout? Have a good think - give us an idea of what you are trying (hoping?) to do and, if possible, a trackplan - and then ask again - but a hunt through the forum using the search facility at the top of the page may answer the questions for you! There is at least one other current question about building baseboards - click on view new content and it will find it

If you need ideas for trackplans, there are plenty in the previous version of the forum http://www.rmweb.co....wforum.php?f=66

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  • 3 weeks later...

Would it be too much to build it as 2x 4'6"x2'0" baseboards? Less joints, less complications.

 

Have you also considered the possibility of have all three modules permanently joined by hinges so that it folds up like a "Z" ? I am considering a similar system of 4 modules folding in a "W" pattern that I can easily store in my dormitory wardrobe. Each board will be 3'0" long and about 20" deep. It will be a fairly minimalist O gauge shunting layout.

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Minimise weight, lightweight materials but with plenty of strength, open frame over table top. Remember the final weight will be heavier that the board itself (addition of plaster, ballast).

 

Always build for the longest size you can handle bearing in mind transport limitations and any movements between rooms/up/down stairs. This reduces the number of unsightly gaps between boards and the board designing the trackwork (not the other way round) placing points over joins or support frames can make life difficult.

 

Always remember that the structures (bridges/buildings/signals..) add depth and a high degree of fragility to a layout. If you do not design in a box/frame to protect this detail then it is very vulnerable to damage during transport.

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Would it be too much to build it as 2x 4'6"x2'0" baseboards? Less joints, less complications.

 

That is not an unmanageable size. My main board is currently 6x1 but is 2ft high as well forming a box. That is a pain to move on my own but with care it can be done.

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One factor affecting the size of baseboards is where you are likely to move them out of a loft downstairs and out to the garage may have more restrictions than just moving them within a train room. Of course if you want to exhibit them then will they fit in the car becomes important.

Don

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On my last layout I used 3/4 inch birch ply, although the 3/4 inch is a lot heavier I need it for the area I live in. But one way round the weight problem was what my friend called aircraft technology, we cut circular holes in alot of the bracing and some of the frame and it worked a treat.

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