Wright writes.....

[teaky]

Sorry for the change of topic.

 

I'm looking at D2's in particular the LRM model (my Christmas present from my wife ). 

 

As I don't yet have information books on the class, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the following from the class had the superheated boiler or not in about 1937-39? 

 

4323

4324

4330

4338

4361

4370

4399

 

All of these appeared at Grantham in 37/38 according to 'Shedbash', so I thought they would have shuttled up and down the ECML on local services etc?

 

Dates when locos were superheated (blank indicates not superheated) - courtesy of Locomotives Illustrated no. 126:

 

4323

4324

4330  May 1935

4338  Feb 1935

4361  Nov 1929

4370

4399  May 1928

[grob1234]

Dates when locos were superheated (blank indicates not superheated) - courtesy of Locomotives Illustrated no. 126:

 

4323

4324

4330  May 1935

4338  Feb 1935

4361  Nov 1929

4370

4399  May 1928

Excellent, many thanks Rob. Nice excuse to buy two by the looks of it.

[Tony Wright]

I hope it isn't too late to bring up the topic of Warley again.  The N gauge boge that Tony built was mine; I wanted some advice on how to put it together.  The last time (a couple of years ago) I tried to build one of these it ended up as a sorry mess of bent brass and solder blobs.  Thanks again to Tony for taking the time to show me how to do it.

 

Today I had a go at making one of my own, my effort is on the left, Tony's is on the right.  Mine is actually more free-running than the one Tony assembled.

 

IMG_20171203_183422.jpg

 

My first attempt wasn't quite as successful (I'm glad I bought a spare etch), but may yet be salvaged.

 

IMG_20171203_183551.jpg

 

A cruel close-up to give an idea of how it will look under a Chinese-assembled Graham Farish Castle.

 

IMG_20171203_183931.jpg

 

Plus a photo of the original bogie arrangement.

 

IMG_20171203_184013.jpg

 

It's very satisfying when you finally get a tricky build to come together.

John,

 

You've made my day. I'm delighted your little bogie is more free-running than the one I made. I didn't have a piece of N Gauge track to test it on (the best excuse I can think of). 

 

I was surprised the wheels couldn't be taken off the axles. And, though the difference is amazing (as shown in your pictures), I'd still try and source bogie wheels with the correct number of spokes. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

Sorry for the change of topic.

 

I'm looking at D2's in particular the LRM model (my Christmas present from my wife ). 

 

As I don't yet have information books on the class, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the following from the class had the superheated boiler or not in about 1937-39? 

 

4323

4324

4330

4338

4361

4370

4399

 

All of these appeared at Grantham in 37/38 according to 'Shedbash', so I thought they would have shuttled up and down the ECML on local services etc?

Change the topic all you like Tom,

 

The LRM D2 is a superlative kit, and featured in my recent Crowood book.

 

 

 

Here it is, just after I'd completed it, running-in on Little Bytham.

 

 

And after painting by Ian Rathbone (way out of time, of course).

 

 

The customer insisted on no weathering.

 

 

Running on the layout it was built for, Grantham. 

 

It's certainly fascinating looking at all the images of 3D-printed stuff and reading the comments made. Many thanks for the posts. 

 

While it's well-known that I'm 'hostile' to just about anything new in railway modelling (or anything new, whatever it might be!), could it be that 3D-printing is the 'way ahead'? It'll certainly appeal to those who avoid soldering, but that means gluing things together (which I dislike, of course). Still, non-metallic substances cannot be soldered (and, I admit, I've just started making some coach interiors from plastic - though the tables are soldered-up). It's just that, nothing represents sheet metal better than, erm, sheet metal. However good a 'plastic/resin-based' model might be, how can things like tender sides or cabsides be thin enough so as to appear as 'scale'? Or, how can coal rails be strong enough (and be scale section - as wire or metal strip allows)? Give me soldering any day. 

Edited December 4, 2017 by Tony Wright

[Barry Ten]

I find the absence of weathering on kitbuilt locomotives far less jarring than on RTR ones. Perhaps they just end up being more naturally toned-down to start with.

[grob1234]

Yes! I knew there was inspiration somewhere in my choice of making a couple of D2's. I'd seen your step by step guide in your book, but last time I came back to Hong Kong I was already close to my luggage limit and sadly, the book had to stay at home. However, when my wife is home in the early new year I'll get her to bring it back for me.

 

Really lovely looking locomotive you have shared with us, Tony, and I entirely agree with you about the finesse of brass versus plastic. Only today was I highlighting the crispness of the tender railing of my LRM J3 Stirling tender to my parents, compared to the three inch thick scale tender sides on the Hornby J15. Please don't misinterpret my comments as being anti RTR, I'm most definitely not - the J15 runs superbly and has loads of detail, it's just that personally, I feel it is almost too perfect. My J3 is far from perfect, and it is these imperfections that give the locomotive its personality and provenance. One imperfection I'm particularly pleased with is a small dent on the tender flare. I have no idea how it got there, but it looks like a heavy handed coal loader dropped a heavy bucket on it or something and added some character. I noticed it prior to painting, but left it in there for fun.

 

PS can I be an arse; I notice the spectacle frame is on the outside on the unpainted model, and seems to have disappeared on the completed model? Which is correct?

Edited December 4, 2017 by grob1234

[Lecorbusier]

 One imperfection I'm particularly pleased with is a small dent on the tender flare. I have no idea how it got there, but it looks like a heavy handed coal loader dropped a heavy bucket on it or something and added some character. I noticed it prior to painting, but left it in there for fun.

For me this is an important point.

 

I recall Maggie Gravatt when interviewed on 'the Joy of Trainsets' saying that when modelling buildings it was not until you broke a pane of glass here, cracked a board there or splashed the odd stain around that the work began to live. .... which of course goes a bit beyond simple weathering.

 

The Joy of train sets is well worth a watch if you haven't seen it ... a little relaxing entertainment for an idle moment.

 

[grob1234]

For me this is an important point.

 

I recall Maggie Gravatt when interviewed on 'the Joy of Trainsets' saying that when modelling buildings it was not until you broke a pane of glass here, cracked a board there or splashed the odd stain around that the work began to live. .... which of course goes a bit beyond simple weathering.

 

The Joy of train sets is well worth a watch if you haven't seen it ... a little relaxing entertainment for an idle moment.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX5ZEV354yI

I've watched that a few times, really nice viewing.

[polybear]

The LRM D2 is a superlative kit, and featured in my recent Crowood book.

 

LRM D2 36.jpg

 

 

 

 Hi Tony,

 

Could you post a list of books written by your good self, please?  Christmas is coming....

Many thanks, Brian

[Tony Wright]

Yes! I knew there was inspiration somewhere in my choice of making a couple of D2's. I'd seen your step by step guide in your book, but last time I came back to Hong Kong I was already close to my luggage limit and sadly, the book had to stay at home. However, when my wife is home in the early new year I'll get her to bring it back for me.

 

Really lovely looking locomotive you have shared with us, Tony, and I entirely agree with you about the finesse of brass versus plastic. Only today was I highlighting the crispness of the tender railing of my LRM J3 Stirling tender to my parents, compared to the three inch thick scale tender sides on the Hornby J15. Please don't misinterpret my comments as being anti RTR, I'm most definitely not - the J15 runs superbly and has loads of detail, it's just that personally, I feel it is almost too perfect. My J3 is far from perfect, and it is these imperfections that give the locomotive its personality and provenance. One imperfection I'm particularly pleased with is a small dent on the tender flare. I have no idea how it got there, but it looks like a heavy handed coal loader dropped a heavy bucket on it or something and added some character. I noticed it prior to painting, but left it in there for fun.

 

PS can I be an arse; I notice the spectacle frame is on the outside on the unpainted model, and seems to have disappeared on the completed model? Which is correct?

Tom,

 

You can be as much of an arse as you like. I've made it an art form!

 

Ian pointed out that the opening spectacle should be on the inside (my incompetence) because it opens inside the cab. He unsoldered them and they're now fixed (as they should be) inside - and all but invisible. 

 

Now asking an 'arsey' (or is it arsy?) question, I assume Cathay flies between the UK and Australia? If so we'd like to support your company by flying out by it next year. What do you recommend, please? We can't afford business class, but would like to avoid 'steerage' if possible. 

 

Many thanks,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

 Hi Tony,

 

Could you post a list of books written by your good self, please?  Christmas is coming....

Many thanks, Brian

If memory serves, Brian............

 

One by Irwell on carriage conversions (last century).

 

Another one by Irwell on building loco kits (again, last century). 

 

A sort of autobiographical tome, published by Warners in 2010, A Lifetime with Locomotives & Layouts. 

 

The LNER Pacifics Modelling Options, Irwell, 2010. 

 

There have been four Irwell 'Bookazines' over the last three years - Into the Blue, From Green to Blue, The Deltics, a Personal View and one on the Class 50s (just published). These mainly feature my own prototype pictures.

 

Modelling the East Coast Main Line in the British Railways Era, Crowood, last summer.

 

Locomotives in Close Up, the LNER classes, Booklaw, October this year.

 

I've lost count of the books I've taken the photographs for, but they include the works of Bob Essery, Pete Waterman, Dave Lowery and many others. 

 

There are also countless supplements and too-many-to-count articles in all the model railway magazines and in British Railways Illustrated. 

 

There could be more, but memory....................... 

Edited December 4, 2017 by Tony Wright

[The Stationmaster]

Tom,

 

You can be as much of an arse as you like. I've made it an art form!

 

Ian pointed out that the opening spectacle should be on the inside (my incompetence) because it opens inside the cab. He unsoldered them and they're now fixed (as they should be) inside - and all but invisible. 

 

Now asking an 'arsey' (or is it arsy?) question, I assume Cathay flies between the UK and Australia? If so we'd like to support your company by flying out by it next year. What do you recommend, please? We can't afford business class, but would like to avoid 'steerage' if possible. 

 

Many thanks,

 

Tony. 

 

Have a look a Trailfinders website and see if they've got any decent offers going but you might also be advised to look at other airlines asa. number of those operating via their Middle East hubs can offer good value for flights to Aus.  You might even find that a 'round-the-world' (literally) booking is cheaper than a straightforward return trip.  Trailfinders used to offer the best value for UK - Australia flights and my past employer used them more or less exclusively, but for various airlines. although I went out & back with Cathay Pacific on my last trip to Aus (in Buslness Class) and found them very good.  

 

I would definitely avoid 'steerage', in fact even 'steerage plus' on BA was not brilliant although at least the seats were comfortable but the 'food' was pretty awful.  But things have no doubt changed since I last travelled to/from Oz.

[Clearwater]

I’m really intrigued by 3D printing. I can see that the technology has got some maturing still to do but I think the skill will be in producing the drawings that both print and can be assembled into a model. Both those tasks require skill as witnessed by the innumerable comments on bad etched brass/ white metal kits on the preceding pages. For my part, on the “to do” list, is to learn a 3D writing prog to be able to make/print what I want rather than relying on others.

 

David

[grahame]

I tend to agree that 3D printing still has some way to go, but one beneficial development from 3D printing is using a three 3D printed mould for resin casting as in this N/2mm SR 'booster' electric locomotive from Radley Models (the pic was just a temporary set up for doing some image stacking tests). It seems to help overcome the issues of 3D printing which currently are not particularly suited for N/2mm models without a lot of hard and tricky work. Unfortunately I never got around to finishing the kit, which was body only, but the pic probably gives an idea:

 

 

G.

 

 

 

 

[ecgtheow]

The question of whether 3D printing will soon take the place of kit-building has been raised here a couple of times, but with Tony's permission, I'd just like to share my latest experience which I hope may be of interest to others.

 

I noted on another RMWeb thread (that I now cannot find!) that someone had very kindly drawn and 3D printed the body for a slightly obscure SE&CR 20T 6 wheeled brake van (SR d.1558) and that it was available from Shapeways for just over £30:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/L6DEMGDN4/a-76-secr-6w-brakevan-1?productConfiguration=63882627&etId=168957135&utm_source=automated-contact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=order-shipped&utm_content=2

 

I thought that this would add a bit of variety to my fleet and so, even though the body has no floor and will need a chassis to be built, I sent for one which duly arrived a week or so later.

 

Unfortunately part of the step board was missing on one side and the tie bar between two of the axle boxes was broken on the other, and so I reported this to Shapeways who agreed without any fuss to replace it.

 

The replacement arrived yesterday and although the step boards are complete, one of the tie bars again has a gap in it; in neither case were any broken bits inside the very secure packing and so one can only assume that because this part is extremely fragile, there has been a fault in printing it. A picture showing the two prints is attached.

 

SJPPC03001202171203.jpg

 

I can't fault Shapeways service, and the 3D drawing is clearly excellent, but having decided that both the step boards and the tie bars are way too flimsy I shall not ask Shapeways for a third print, but will replace these parts with more robust materials.

 

Turning to the surface quality of the print, this is in a material called "white strong & flexible" and it is certainly white! I am not going to put the other two qualities to the test but I can only say that it appears to me to be rather more flimsy than I would like, and as others have found, the surface itself is considerably less smooth than that of a plastic injection moulding - but I knew that before I placed my order.

 

SJPPC03001002171203.jpg

 

So yes, I have got my model of an unusual prototype which is not available RTR or in kit form, and I do not regret my purchase; whether the model will actually appear on my layout or stay in a stock drawer probably depends on how much effort I put into completing it and whether I can put up with the relatively rough looking surface texture.

 

For me, 3D printing is still very immature and not yet a viable alternative to brass, nickel-silver or plastic injection moulding!

 

(Just my opinion!)

 

Tony

 

The subsequent discussion about 3-D printing shows that it has come a lot recently & FUD is definitely better than WSF though a bit brittle. Here is a photo of a GNR G1 0-4-4T made from a GNR Models body & chassis, by a model maker who has become a friend. As a result of following this blog it has been sent off to Geoff Haynes for painting & lining, which except in plain black is far beyond my abilities

[Tony Wright]

The subsequent discussion about 3-D printing shows that it has come a lot recently & FUD is definitely better than WSF though a bit brittle. Here is a photo of a GNR G1 0-4-4T made from a GNR Models body & chassis, by a model maker who has become a friend. As a result of following this blog it has been sent off to Geoff Haynes for painting & lining, which except in plain black is far beyond my abilities

I'll no doubt take its picture once Geoff has painted it. 

[Ian Smeeton]

Hi Tony,

 

I know that you are very pro kit building, but for a beginner to the gentle art, where would you start.

 

I don't mean, where did YOU start (but that would be informative), but for someone who has done a couple of wagon kits to build confidence (if nothing else), which etched/cast kits would you suggest>

 

Personally, I model in 2 mm, but might be persuaded to do something larger.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Tony Wright]

Hi Tony,

 

I know that you are very pro kit building, but for a beginner to the gentle art, where would you start.

 

I don't mean, where did YOU start (but that would be informative), but for someone who has done a couple of wagon kits to build confidence (if nothing else), which etched/cast kits would you suggest>

 

Personally, I model in 2 mm, but might be persuaded to do something larger.

 

Regards

 

Ian

Good evening Ian,

 

Where did I start with kit-building? 

 

Like many others, making a body-line kit from the likes of BEC or Wills, and putting them on to a Tri-ang Jinty chassis. I tried a K's kit, but that defeated me entirely (this was in the late-'60s). Those early efforts - a J11 and a J39 were retained for many years, especially after I became a 'scale' modeller by fitting the Jinty chassis with Romford wheels. They even made it into the model press (I cringe) and they were fixed together with (old-fashioned) Araldite. Where they are now, I dread to think, though I hope they're in land-fill! 

 

Where to start for yourself? Why not a J39, this time from SE Finecast? It's an inside-cylinder 0-6-0, with a tender. It's a mixture of etched and cast components and it has a beautiful chassis. You can start with the tender. Or, a 4F? Or any other tender 0-6-0s with inside cylinders. Dave Ellis at SE Finecast is most-helpful, and he'll supply you with everything you need. 

 

Invest in a temperature-controlled iron and forget any advice given that you can glue metal kits together. Practise first on odd bits and pieces. 

 

I wish you luck, but, most of all, have a go.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited December 4, 2017 by Tony Wright

[johnarcher]

I'm not questioning your far greater experience Tony (Heaven forfend), but I would be interested to know why you recommend a tender engine? I personally would have thought that an inside-cylinder 0-6-0 side tank would be as easy for construction, and easier for the 'getting the motor in' aspect?

[Lecorbusier]

Hi Tony,

 

I know that you are very pro kit building, but for a beginner to the gentle art, where would you start.

 

I don't mean, where did YOU start (but that would be informative), but for someone who has done a couple of wagon kits to build confidence (if nothing else), which etched/cast kits would you suggest>

 

Personally, I model in 2 mm, but might be persuaded to do something larger.

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

 

Good evening Ian,

 

Where did I start with kit-building? 

 

Like many others, making a body-line kit from the likes of BEC or Wills, and putting them on to a Tri-ang Jinty chassis. I tried a K's kit, but that defeated me entirely (this was in the late-'60s). Those early efforts - a J11 and a J39 were retained for many years, especially after I became a 'scale' modeller by fitting the Jinty chassis with Romford wheels. They even made it into the model press (I cringe) and they were fixed together with (old-fashioned) Araldite. Where they are now, I dread to think, though I hope they're in land-fill! 

 

Where to start for yourself? Why not a J39, this time from SE Finecast? It's an inside-cylinder 0-6-0, with a tender. It's a mixture of etched and cast components and it has a beautiful chassis. You can start with the tender. Or, a 4F? Or any other tender 0-6-0s with inside cylinders. Dave Ellis at SE Finecast is most-helpful, and he'll supply you with everything you need. 

 

Invest in a temperature-controlled iron and forget any advice given that you can glue metal kits together. Practise first on odd bits and pieces. 

 

I wish you luck, but, most of all, have a go.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

And if I can add to this ... watch Tony's excellent  DVD on building kits

 

[grob1234]

Tom,

 

You can be as much of an arse as you like. I've made it an art form!

 

Ian pointed out that the opening spectacle should be on the inside (my incompetence) because it opens inside the cab. He unsoldered them and they're now fixed (as they should be) inside - and all but invisible. 

 

Now asking an 'arsey' (or is it arsy?) question, I assume Cathay flies between the UK and Australia? If so we'd like to support your company by flying out by it next year. What do you recommend, please? We can't afford business class, but would like to avoid 'steerage' if possible. 

 

Many thanks,

 

Tony. 

 

I am fairly sure it should be arsey, though the google spell checker seems to disagree...

 

We do fly between the UK and AUS, via HKG of course. You could choose from Manchester, London Heathrow or Gatwick to HKG then onwards to wherever it is in Australia you fancy. Off the top of my head we go to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Brisbane, Adelaide and Cairns. Your best bet would be what we call 'Premium Economy'. You get more luggage allowance, wider seats with plenty of leg room, champagne on arrival in your seat, but most importantly you have a quieter cabin, and a greater sense of space than when flying in economy. In terms of booking and achieving a good price, the best way is to be flexible on your travel dates. Quite often for example weekend flights are more pricey. Pay particular attention to special offers as well, they crop up from time to time. My wife told me that recently return flights to Aus with Cathay in business were £3000, which is good considering LHR to HKG can be over £4000 business return. Hope this is in some way useful, though sadly as with a lot of things these days, it is all down to the amount of searching you're prepared to do in order to find the deal that is right for you.

 

PS, if you do happen to transit through HKG, be sure to let us know, and we will take you out for some drinks in the worlds highest bar within a building, it is quite spectacular at night, with view across all of Victoria Harbour. 

[jukebox]

I am fairly sure it should be arsey, though the google spell checker seems to disagree...

 

We do fly between the UK and AUS, via HKG of course. You could choose from Manchester, London Heathrow or Gatwick to HKG then onwards to wherever it is in Australia you fancy. Off the top of my head we go to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Brisbane, Adelaide and Cairns. Your best bet would be what we call 'Premium Economy'. You get more luggage allowance, wider seats with plenty of leg room, champagne on arrival in your seat, but most importantly you have a quieter cabin, and a greater sense of space than when flying in economy. In terms of booking and achieving a good price, the best way is to be flexible on your travel dates. Quite often for example weekend flights are more pricey. Pay particular attention to special offers as well, they crop up from time to time. My wife told me that recently return flights to Aus with Cathay in business were £3000, which is good considering LHR to HKG can be over £4000 business return. Hope this is in some way useful, though sadly as with a lot of things these days, it is all down to the amount of searching you're prepared to do in order to find the deal that is right for you.

 

PS, if you do happen to transit through HKG, be sure to let us know, and we will take you out for some drinks in the worlds highest bar within a building, it is quite spectacular at night, with view across all of Victoria Harbour. 

 

Can thoroughly recommend Cathay, Tony, even if you do have to use Y (Economy) - they are my airline of choice out of Perth to points North, and despite not having the roominess of the A380, their cabin crew have, in my experience, always eclipsed all others - just the right amount of attention versus privacy.  Used Emirates once and refuse to again - a very perfuncionary cabin crew - and the flying kangaroo abandoned Perth as an international exit for so many years, I can't support them even though they are slowly re-entering the fray.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited December 5, 2017 by jukebox

[grob1234]

Can thoroughly recommend Cathay, Tony, even if you do have to use Y (Economy) - they are my airline of choice out of Perth to points North, and despite not having the roominess of the A380, their cabin crew have, in my experience, always eclipsed all others - just the right amount of attention versus privacy.  Used Emirates once and refuse to again - a very perfuncionary cabin crew - and the flying kangaroo abandoned Perth as an international exit for so many years, I can't support them even though they are slowly re-entering the fray.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

I quite often fly the Perth route Scott, so you'll have to listen out for my dulcet tones on the PA next time!

[Tony Wright]

I'm not questioning your far greater experience Tony (Heaven forfend), but I would be interested to know why you recommend a tender engine? I personally would have thought that an inside-cylinder 0-6-0 side tank would be as easy for construction, and easier for the 'getting the motor in' aspect?

John,

 

One can start with the tender, which is easier to make (it's basically a box). If you mess that up, the cost of a replacement will be less than the loco. 

[Lecorbusier]

John,

 

One can start with the tender, which is easier to make (it's basically a box). If you mess that up, the cost of a replacement will be less than the loco. 

Sound thinking .... however - when i started I couldn't help myself and went for the loco .... I wonder how often that is the case!