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2 hours ago, polybear said:

 

Thanks Tony - I'll give it a good go; one question if I may?  Whilst probably pretty academic after all these years, do you happen to recall whose/what paint you used for the body colour(s) please?  Thanks

Brian

Very academic Brian,

 

I cannot remember (it was in the mid-'70s; when did the Lima Deltic appear, because that's when I made the model? It was actually a Nabisco Kitmaster Deltic - remember those?). 

 

Guessing, I'd say I used a mixture of Humbrol Garter Blue, lightened with some Humbrol matt white, with the speed whiskers painted in Humbrol BR cream. That was back in the day when Humbrol made 'Authentic Railway Colours', their cessation of production being a great loss.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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51 minutes ago, Farang said:

An unwanted video is breaking into this thread when I view it, other threads, too.

 

You can avoid video’s and adverts popping up on RMWeb by either signing up to RMWeb ‘premium’, which costs £12 per annum (=£1 a month) or else installing ad-blocking software on your device, such as AdGuard.  

 

I used the software for a while, but found that it also had unwanted effects on other sites, so I have now subscribed to ‘premium’.  I feel it is a small price to pay for the level of engagement that I have with RMWeb.

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1 hour ago, landscapes said:

Hi Tony

 

Great photos of exceptional models.

 

I totally agree with your comments they are Fabulous models, some time ago I purchased the NRM prototype Deltic when a run on the model was available and I also purchased a second hand Bachmann D9003 Meld.

 

Neither relevant to Haymarket circa 1958/9 but both too good to pass over.

 

I never saw the prototype Deltic in service as I started trainspotting in 1962 but saw plenty of the Deltic’s that followed we use to look at them as intruders to the remaining LNER Pacific’s that were still running at that time.

 

Regards

 

David

Good morning David,

 

Many thanks for your kind comments.

 

I couldn't believe what I was seeing when DELTIC roared through Hartford on the WCML in front of my impressionable young eyes. I'd witnessed nothing like it before. Even the sighting of a brand new D4 GREAT GABLE, a year or so later, couldn't compete. Further sightings of DP1 at Crewe were puzzling because it wasn't in my Ian Allan abcs, so how could it be noted as a 'cop'. 

 

I saw it many times after its transfer to the ECML, on one occasion breaking down at Retford. It was towed off northwards (including its whole train) by one of Retford's B1 'Rockets'. Despite looking through subsequent issues of the railway press, the event was never reported, and, probably, not photographed. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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1 hour ago, Chamby said:

 

If you are already using DCC, you can achieve this with a single sound chip.  Sound chips don’t have to be fitted into locomotives, they can be wired permanently across the track circuit and the speaker sited at a static location, with different whistle and horn sounds installed.  

 

In theory, multiple speakers could be located around the layout and a simple rotary switch used to select which location you want the sound to emanate from.  Under the track adjacent to a signal, or within a tunnel, for example.

 

Also, with static mounted chips, there are no issues re: speaker dimensions...

 

I appreciate that but with the present price of DCC systems (I don't have DCC on my layouts and don't intend to change) and sound chips, I think the cost of having a DCC system and sound chips just to get a whistle is really not justified.  

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Just now, t-b-g said:

 

I appreciate that but with the present price of DCC systems (I don't have DCC on my layouts and don't intend to change) and sound chips, I think the cost of having a DCC system and sound chips just to get a whistle is really not justified.  

For the guard's or station staff's whistle, you could fix an Acme Thunderer somewhere under the platform with a long tube that the operator could blow down.

 

Always happy to help.

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1 hour ago, Chris M said:

This can be achieved with very little technical knowledge and potentially no cost. I have “soundboard studio” on my phone which is free. You can record sounds to mp3 using free pc software, download them to your phone and then link those sounds to various buttons on the app. If the phone is connected to a Bluetooth speaker under the layout you can play whatever sounds you like whenever you want.


I have a somewhat eclectic collection of sounds on my phone and it didn’t cost me a penny. Luckily I already had a decent Bluetooth speaker.260E478F-9F77-4A42-8EAC-7DFE46D2F4D7.png.c2524b789dd2d05117bab66d7ec2109c.png

 

That sounds better than the DCC route.

 

I do (despite my Luddite leanings) actually have a mobile phone, Wi-fi in the railway shed and a Bluetooth speaker.

 

My only problem would be that I am a bit "old school" and when operating Buckingham, using a mobile phone would just seem wrong. It should be done with string, rubber bands or an old bicycle spoke. Or at least a good old fashioned homemade brass sprung push button.  

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2 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

For the guard's or station staff's whistle, you could fix an Acme Thunderer somewhere under the platform with a long tube that the operator could blow down.

 

Always happy to help.

 

I have one! A proper GCR one too. I think the other operators might complain.

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1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

Very interesting! Thanks.

 

I have sent off for a couple to play with. I will report back when I have had chance to try them out.

 

They are tiny, designed to fit in greetings cards, so the speakers might be a bit naff but it should be possible to replace them with a decent DCC type loco speaker. The size might allow them to be hidden under a station canopy or in a building on the platform, or alongside a signal where a loco would whistle as it sets off.

Edited by t-b-g
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1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

 

That sounds better than the DCC route.

 

I do (despite my Luddite leanings) actually have a mobile phone, Wi-fi in the railway shed and a Bluetooth speaker.

 

My only problem would be that I am a bit "old school" and when operating Buckingham, using a mobile phone would just seem wrong. It should be done with string, rubber bands or an old bicycle spoke. Or at least a good old fashioned homemade brass sprung push button.  

 

What about this mobile phone?

https://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/this-rotary-cell-phone-actually-works-and-you-can-buy-it/

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Be careful as speakers have different values. Older DCC Sound decoders need 100ohm speakers whilst newer can have 4 or 8ohm speakers. They also have different voltage requirements.

 

No idea how you would tell what  value the speaker the unit comes with would be. All I know is you may end up damaging it with the wrong replacement.

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1 hour ago, LNERandBR said:

Be careful as speakers have different values. Older DCC Sound decoders need 100ohm speakers whilst newer can have 4 or 8ohm speakers. They also have different voltage requirements.

 

No idea how you would tell what  value the speaker the unit comes with would be. All I know is you may end up damaging it with the wrong replacement.

 

Thanks for the warning. I will look out for that. At the price they are, I am willing to "have a play". Around £15 is all that is at stake. I am sure their speakers will have some part numbers on them that will guide me to a good replacement. Is measuring the resistance just as easy as putting a multimeter across the terminals? If it is, then I can cope with that.

 

Plus, as I said before, I am lucky to have friends who know far more about electronics than most of us. As in proper professional electronic engineers, who design and build such things for fun. I am sure they will be able to guide me if I get stuck. The only reason I didn't ask them to do it for me is that I know they would have given up many hours of their time to create something that I can buy for a few pounds and I didn't want to impose on them.

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1 hour ago, MJI said:

 

I like to keep my model railways as simple as possible as I just think that if I can do a job with a load of complex electronics or with a bit of wood and a spring, I will use the bit of wood and a spring.

 

Having mastered (well more like staggered into!) Wifi, Bluetooth and a Smartphone, I think that would be a step backwards even for me.

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Just to demonstrate that I'm not just a purveyor of sarcastic one liners, but also do some modelling.

 

At the moment we have two milk trains on Southwark Bridge, with a combined length of about six foot.  Our research shows there were a number of milk trains arriving from the West Country, that were combined and returned as one very great train.  Platform Line 5 at Southwark Bridge is about nine foot so we can have a third train, one direct to SB and the other two worked in from Vauxhall and Waterloo.  So I'm building the third train and, of course, it is to P4 standards.

We have a pile of brass kits, which were purchased by Henry Boucher and passed to Ivan Smith (Southwark Bridge Models) to build.  They are now with me!  These are both S&DJR vehicles, the one with windows is a Roxey kit, the other Mallard. Either Henry or Ivan mislaid the castings and instructions of the Roxey kit so I'm grateful for the help of Dave Hammersley.  Whilst built at Highbridge, these vans were very much in the style of the LSWR.  The other one is pure Derby, that turned out a batch with simplified brake gear for the S&DJR.  They are going down to Southwark Bridge next weekend for testing.  Bill

DSC01398.JPG

DSC01399.JPG

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50 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

I am sure their speakers will have some part numbers on them that will guide me to a good replacement. Is measuring the resistance just as easy as putting a multimeter across the terminals? If it is, then I can cope with that.

 

 

Hi Tony,

A quick Google found this:

 

A background on impedance and resistance

If you have a multimeter, you can get an accurate reading of the resistance of the speaker. Let’s understand a little about what it is we are reading. The impedance of the speaker, measured in ohms, is typically listed on the back of the speaker. This value deals with an AC signal (alternating current), the electrical signal that causes a speaker to move. The ohm value, listed on the back of the speaker, is the nominal impedance. Frequency response will change the speaker’s impedance as the speaker moves, so this value is not constant. When you measure with a multimeter, you measure resistance (also measured in ohms). This value deals with DC (direct current) that is applied to the speaker. This value will be slightly lower than the impedance value of the speaker.

 

Another site suggested that impedance measured with a multimeter (on resistance setting) will read something like 15% low - so an 8 ohm speaker will read around 6 or 7 ohms.

HTH

Brian

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And another two.  These were both damaged when they reach me and may not be accepted to run on the layout.  However they were useful to practice my 4mm techniques and, if they don't pass muster, we can always remove the wheels and install them as grounded bodies.  There are another seven LSWR vans to build!  Bill

DSC01402.JPG

DSC01404.JPG

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6 minutes ago, polybear said:

 

Hi Tony,

A quick Google found this:

 

A background on impedance and resistance

If you have a multimeter, you can get an accurate reading of the resistance of the speaker. Let’s understand a little about what it is we are reading. The impedance of the speaker, measured in ohms, is typically listed on the back of the speaker. This value deals with an AC signal (alternating current), the electrical signal that causes a speaker to move. The ohm value, listed on the back of the speaker, is the nominal impedance. Frequency response will change the speaker’s impedance as the speaker moves, so this value is not constant. When you measure with a multimeter, you measure resistance (also measured in ohms). This value deals with DC (direct current) that is applied to the speaker. This value will be slightly lower than the impedance value of the speaker.

 

Another site suggested that impedance measured with a multimeter (on resistance setting) will read something like 15% low - so an 8 ohm speaker will read around 6 or 7 ohms.

HTH

Brian

 

Thanks.

 

I am pretty sure that the speaker will have some indication printed on it but if not, then at least I have a rough idea as to what sort of reading to get.

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5 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

For the guard's or station staff's whistle, you could fix an Acme Thunderer somewhere under the platform with a long tube that the operator could blow down.

 

Always happy to help.

I still have an Acme Thunderer, somewhere; bought, in 1967, when I started teacher-training. It was on the 'must-have' list provided by Edge Hill prior to my beginning studies there, though a cane wasn't on that list, even though (believe it or not) they were still in use at the time! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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