StuartM Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Because I like to top each page with a photo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 What do BBs look like from above? Are they narrower than DGs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 What do BBs look like from above? Are they narrower than DGs? DG's to the top BB's to the bottom The BB loop is slightly more robust than the DG loop, or to put it another way the DG loop is slightly more refined However the difference doesn't bother me, I just want something that is easy to make and works reliably. (The word 'easy' is relative because both are very fiddly to make) The DG's cost £2.50 from the 2mmsa shop and the BB's cosy £3.60 direct from Derek or the ngauge shop I suggest you buy a pack of each and see which one works best for you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted December 3, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2013 One question will DGs and BBs couple together it would solve problems of sharing stock on each other's layouts. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 One question will DGs and BBs couple together it would solve problems of sharing stock on each other's layouts. Don Yes.....but I'm using a loop at one end and a latch at the other for both types of coupling. Coupling up seems to work ok, uncoupling not so well, maybe the BB latch is a little heavy or stiff for the DG loop? Although I haven't spent any real time playing with this arrangement I think in time I will convert my DG stock to BB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with the different types if coupling - I've found it very useful. Your layout is looking fantastic! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted December 4, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 4, 2013 Yes.....but I'm using a loop at one end and a latch at the other for both types of coupling. Coupling up seems to work ok, uncoupling not so well, maybe the BB latch is a little heavy or stiff for the DG loop? Although I haven't spent any real time playing with this arrangement I think in time I will convert my DG stock to BB Well at least it is not a total no no which could make life difficult for groups. Thanks Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Well at least it is not a total no no which could make life difficult for groups. Thanks Don You could always use a barrier wagon, BB one end DG the other. One last thing to mention, I've found it best to slightly bend the BB loop upwards, so when it strikes the opposing hook, it travels up and over the hook rather than just striking the hook and staying horizontal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted December 6, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 6, 2013 When I used to help Denys Brownlee operate Burnham-On-Sea, we interchanged DGs & B&Bs quite happily. As the designer of the coupling, Denys preferred B&Bs. I like DGs as I found them easier to make & set up. There is a definite knack to making both. My tips for success with DGs - do the buffing plate bend & solder reinforcement while they are on the fret - curve the delay latch round the edge of a Swann Morton No. 1237 Brass Handle, it's got the perfect radius - splay the tangs of the delay latch with a sharpened jewellers screwdriver, just insert between them and twist it slightly - form the loops around the rectangular bending jig en-masse like a big spring and make lots of them - squeeze the sides of the rectangular "spring" in the plain jaws of a vice to flatten the wire down and make it more square - solder the loop & steel dropper in the flat on a piece of Tufnol - hold the loop on the solder joint with pointed nose pliers and bend the dropper to the appropriate angle, no need to curve it, it works OK straight. - blacken after assembly if desired, otherwise paint them when on the rolling stock. A thin brush coat or spray won't affect them. - assemble on to a prepared area on the item of rolling stock so the DG is level and unbent with the buffing plate 4.5mm above the top of the rail. - use Evostick "Serious Glue" to glue the couplers on. It's like a cross between superglue & expoxy, conveniently in a tube. Grabs quickly, sets strongly. - don't project the DGs too far beyond the buffers. ½mm is fine. - slightly curve the two ends of the buffing plate towards the buffer beam I prefer them single ended. However I do use them double ended for NG stock, as there's not much room for the loops & droppers on the locos. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 I have been giving the matter of couplings some thought and have had a an idea..... The problem with either BB's or DG's is that they are fiddly to make and because each one is hand built, each one differs in some way from all the others, often resulting in unreliability and/or lots of adjustment, not to mention the time involved. I wonder if it might be possible to produce a coupling using 3D printing techniques. This way each coupling would be uniform, which would hopefully make them uniformly reliable as well, with an added advantage, that a coupling could be printed in black. I know very little about 3D printing so can anyone advise me if the printers are able to scan an object, i.e. an existing coupling, and then print direct from the scan, or can they only work from a cad file? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted December 14, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 14, 2013 I do wonder if those people who need them to be double ended because of the layout design (such as using a traintable) would actually find identical couplings more of a problem becasue the loops would slide over each other less easily than the handbuilt slightly differing ones. Considering coupler design AJs - very fiddly to make and keep adjusted, very neat , no buffing action DGs - slightly fiddly to make, neat, include a buffing action Tension lock style - no 2mm type available (I think), obtrusive, include Buffing action Linc ups - no 2mm available can be hand made, neat, no buffing action, no delayed uncoupling Electra good reports of 2mm use but no experience Sprat and Winkles very similar to tension locks Note the tension lock type the loop is also the buffer and does not suffer from the problem with DGs that the loops can prevent coupling on occasions the downside being more obtrusive loops I cannot see 3D printing producing an assembled coupling with moving parts at this stage but would be happy to be corrected. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Some interesting stuff going on from one of our own http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66521-and-who-says-that-home-3d-printing-cant-do-detail/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Its been well over a month since my last post, but what with Christmas, family time and a really busy period at work, there hasn't been much time for modelling, plus I seem to have acquired modellers block. The west end of the layout is all but complete, so I need to turn my attention to the east end. Having made several building mock ups, I finally settled on one I liked, which comprised of a brick building and a platform canopy. I got as far as making the building but then thought it would be easier to make the canopy and fit it to the platform on the work bench, besides I needed to make a slight alteration to the platform anyway, so the platform was unscrewed from the board and work began on the alterations. However...... Looking at the empty space made me think that perhaps the layout would look better without the platform and associated buildings; then with a little playing around I settled on the idea of a building running along the end of the yard and the space where the platform was becoming a road. Now I can't make up my mind which to do, so I'd be interested in other peoples opinions. Photo 1 with platform and canopy mock up Photo 2 no platform and just so show some progress Photo 3 rail barriers Photo 4 a prototype yard lamp Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 HiStuart glad your back I quite like the canopy but it is your layout Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 But then the building running along the back looks good too. Ha. Ha hope that helps John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted February 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2014 In photo 2, if you place the new building where you have put it, how does any traffic (traders' lorries, etc.) get onto the road? In photo 1, why is the canopy so wide? It looks as though it covers not just the platform but also the adjacent track on both sides. All-in-all, I would prefer the platform with the canopy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted February 2, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2014 Could I say that as you have the excellent building on the other end of the yard, my personal preference would be to leave this end of the yard bare, it looks quite good like this to me, with just hard standing and access across the tracks past the toe of the point. Don't quite know if this would still exist into the blue era, but a motorized crane for the loading/unloading of small container traffic and other items sitting there might suit. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 In photo 2, if you place the new building where you have put it, how does any traffic (traders' lorries, etc.) get onto the road? In photo 1, why is the canopy so wide? It looks as though it covers not just the platform but also the adjacent track on both sides. All-in-all, I would prefer the platform with the canopy. Good questions. 1. the canopy is that wide because this is supposed to be a freight loading platform, the goods coming from the building the canopy is attached to. The canopy extending over the tracks either side to protect the goods better. 2. There is space between the mock up building beyond the end of the sidings which leads to the space created by the removed platform, This is how lorrys bringing and collecting goods would enter and exit the yard. Because of the perspective of the photo this is not obvious. Thanks for your input Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Thanks John & Izzy for your input, a small crane has been considered but a fork lift truck might be an option Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hello Stuart I'm enjoying your thread, and pretty confident that whatever you do you'll make an excellent job of it given the superb standards you've achieved so far. But as you asked, and having looked at this a couple of times and thought about it before replying, I think the canopy looks a little odd. It may well be copied from a genuine British building, but to my eye the large overhang gives it something of an Alpine or Bavarian feel. The plain sidings on the other hand look very "1970s" to me and with a couple of appropriate vehicles, or maybe a fork-lift or small crane, would I think look better. They'd also be a good way of showing off more stock. Finally, if you're still unsure, you could always "scenic" the sidings without buildings and then if you don't like it adding he buildings won't be too hard... cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2014 With blue diesels I think the no canopy open effect looks right a forklift would be fine or maybe a JCB to load into the open wagons. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Thanks John & Izzy for your input, a small crane has been considered but a fork lift truck might be an option Something like this? (I think the model is from the American GHQ range - Osborn's Models seem to stock a limited range). Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Maybe, although Hatton's has a good selection, http://www.ehattons.com/stocklist/1000489/1000589/1000669/0/Base_Toys_N_Gauge_Commercial_vehicles/prodlist.aspx http://www.ehattons.com/stocklist/1000488/1000589/1000669/0/Oxford_Diecast_N_Gauge_Commercial_vehicles/prodlist.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I thought you were considering a fork lift truck. AFAIK neither Oxford nor BT models do one (though it would be nice if they did) hence I mentioned the GHQ models kit. I like the barrier made from old rail on your layout. Something you don't see modelled very often. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Because I've opted for the yard option I now have to make some buffer stops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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