Jump to content
 

Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

Very nice Julia. dropping engines on the floor never does them much good, but you have made a good job of the repair. I sem to remember the 'bar support thingys' are called stays but it maybe my memory. Shame about the wagon.

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Here are some pics of part of my model of the Caledonian Express. The headboard on the loco is blue tacked in place and is probably a bit wonky.

 

post-12813-0-87156400-1377944217_thumb.jpg

 

post-12813-0-86231200-1377944232_thumb.jpg

 

Nig H

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Absolutely stunning work there Nigel. That looks truly fantastic.

 

M.

Thanks Julia. Ian Rathbone's paint job on the loco and coaches certainly helps hugely to the overall result. In a way I'm relieved that I've built all the LMS pacifics I wanted to model as I found much of the work quite stressfull, although I don't think any 2mm loco construction is a piece of cake.

 

Nig H

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

you're going to finish the point rodding on Highclere?! ;)

 

Andy

 

Now, finish is such a big word! 'Get a bit more done on' sounds much better. Yes, its another hair brained scheme to try and get some more work on the point rodding done..

 

M :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now, finish is such a big word! 'Get a bit more done on' sounds much better. Yes, its another hair brained scheme to try and get some more work on the point rodding done..

 

M :)

 

Myself and Jerry had an in depth conversation with Laurie Adams about his ideas for creating point rodding at Expo. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Myself and Jerry had an in depth conversation with Laurie Adams about his ideas for creating point rodding at Expo. 

 

I remember the conversation but not the conclusions although I'm sure I would have suggested there was a simpler way to do it :sungum:   -  no surprise there!!

 

Jerry

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Not quite 2mm scale, but the reason I have not been doing the small stuff lately!  Back to 2mm in the autumn: we will be working on Copenhagen Fields from the end of the September.

 

Tim

 

Having seen 'Frederick' on display at the GDSF at the weekend I can confirm it is most certainly not 2mm scale - but a beautiful thing to behold none the less!

 

Jerry

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not quite 2mm scale, but the reason I have not been doing the small stuff lately!  Back to 2mm in the autumn: we will be working on Copenhagen Fields from the end of the September.

 

Tim

Tim,

It was looking good earlier in the year - now it's stunning.

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

If it were 2mm I'd be more interested in the method of making the hedge - those leaves are amazing! :P

It's a well trimmed laurel hedge. Actually I think a suitable dense green foam would work quite well for the hedge, with a piece of sand paper for the gravel: representing the engine in 2mm scale would be more of a challenge...

 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

So it seems I need to thicken the mudgards to 0.6mm thick! That to me will make them far to thick and will affect the appearance of the model too much to make it worthwhile printing. I am finding it VERY frustrating and feel like giving up with Shapeways as they just seem to be declining all my stuff recently. 

 

Afraid not just you we are all having the same problem.

Just ordered some lampposts that test printed fine, the the singles arm version gets refused but the double arm is fine, yet the detail they refused the single for is the same on the doubles.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Been hitting a wall lately especially with regard to steam Chassis so as a side line put one of Ultima's 3d printed rail car together on a  TU-TMC100 chassis now fitted with a DCX76 chip and 150 ohm resistor, running is ok  but far from perfect

 

 

 

 

Still it is a real Stephens loco not sure how I will do the trailer yet

 

 

 

Further experiments with home printed transfers

 

 

 

Edited by nick_bastable
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

For the one I am building I plan to put pickups in the trailer and run fine decoder wire between the two so I can get better power pickup.  It's also possible if you move the wheels around as per my blog entry to shorten the Tsugawa so you could power the trailer too.

 

Transfers look neat - nice solid white with no bleed. What system are you using to do these ?

 

Alan

Link to post
Share on other sites

A few stay-alive capacitors in the tram-car or trailer would probably help.  Article on how to do it with tiny ceramic capacitors is with Mick for the 2mm Magazine - my sample loco is my 02 diesel, with 900uF of capacitors squeezed into a space less than 8mm x 8mm x 4mm.  The improvement in running is quite marked.  Suggest you need at least 400uF for noticeable effect, and more is better.    Attaching to the DCX76 is simpler than the DCX75 I was using. 

 

My stuff is derived from this German language website.  

http://www.1001-digital.de/pages/bastelei/elektronisches/pufferkondensatoren.php

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The railcar looks very nice. Does the body require a lot of work to get it looking smooth?

 

 

The printing although far from smooth was fairly clean and the primer leveled it  a little so not to much  :paint: 

 

 

 

For the one I am building I plan to put pickups in the trailer and run fine decoder wire between the two so I can get better power pickup.  It's also possible if you move the wheels around as per my blog entry to shorten the Tsugawa so you could power the trailer too.

 

Transfers look neat - nice solid white with no bleed. What system are you using to do these ?

 

Alan

Alan transfers are made up using word and then laser printed  on to lazertrans  http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.Inkjet-Lazertran_CPJ317I.htm   which although designed for ink jets works with a laser  at least my old HP2100  they are then foiled with film  http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.Laser-Transfer-Foils_FOIL-LAZ1M.htm via a laminator  thanks to Mrs B for the technique and actual laminating work  :declare:

 

 

A few stay-alive capacitors in the tram-car or trailer would probably help.  Article on how to do it with tiny ceramic capacitors is with Mick for the 2mm Magazine - my sample loco is my 02 diesel, with 900uF of capacitors squeezed into a space less than 8mm x 8mm x 4mm.  The improvement in running is quite marked.  Suggest you need at least 400uF for noticeable effect, and more is better.    Attaching to the DCX76 is simpler tha

 

 

 

Nigel will wait for the magazine to see if a numpty like me can manage to emulate a little of your excellent 2mm/DCC  work  :swoon:

Edited by nick_bastable
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Not exactly on my workbench, more on my layout, but some progress on Ropley has seen the first section small sleeper wall installed over the last couple of days and the ash pit line finally laid and the point leading to it ballasted in and grunged up!

 

post-1467-0-37901400-1378801332_thumb.jpg

 

This is not a view that will be seen all that often once the layout is complete unless it's been operated from behind for any reason.

 

Tom. 

 

Edit: Yes I know there is a check rail missing! Got carried away and forgot it.....

Edited by TomE
  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Not exactly on my workbench, more on my layout, but some progress on Ropley has seen the first section small sleeper wall installed over the last couple of days and the ash pit line finally laid and the point leading to it ballasted in and grunged up!

 

 

Tom. 

 

 

That looks superb Tom, really stunning, there is nothing in the scene that jars or shouts model, let alone scale. Great stuff.

 

Jerry

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...