SteveBedding Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 "...in preparation to take St Ruth down South again, one of which is a County Rolling Stock, or "N'Tastic" GWR Gas Cordon..." P1020681.JPG Hi Chris, Could I ask what wheels you are using on the DD4 Cordon - I can't quite see from your photo, but looking at the picture in Atkins' GWR Goods Wagons does look like they are discs rather than spokes. Also, what axle length are you using? I've also got one of these from Tricky which will go vey nicely on Calne, although the picture I have of one there is of a DD5! Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinerChris Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Hi Chris, Could I ask what wheels you are using on the DD4 Cordon - I can't quite see from your photo, but looking at the picture in Atkins' GWR Goods Wagons does look like they are discs rather than spokes. Also, what axle length are you using? I've also got one of these from Tricky which will go vey nicely on Calne, although the picture I have of one there is of a DD5! Cheers Hi Steve, I have looked at the photo too, and can't decipher... I went for disk wheels as they were the only ones with 14.2mm axles, that I used with association bearings, rather than the ones supplied. You can't really see the difference with the foot steps around the wheel, until I get around to building a new, thinner chassis. Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) I'm not a 2FS modeller (ugly N gauge for me) but this is a 2FS model, so I thought it would be ok to post it: Designed by Missy, 3D printed (see here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66521-and-who-says-that-home-3d-printing-cant-do-detail/page-3) assembled and painted by me: The painting leaves a bit to be desired but, in my defence, it is flipping tiny. Still needs a coat of matt varnish and glazing. I'm tempted to try to add a steering wheel before I put the windscreen in. Edited September 29, 2013 by Rabs 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted September 29, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 29, 2013 Congrats to both you and Missy there. It does look nice. The steering wheel and something to represent the back of the drivers seat would probably be visible if you want to push yourself. Don PS persevere with the N gauge if you wish but as your models get better you may yet change. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 The driver's seat is there, just invisible in the gloom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted September 30, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 30, 2013 (edited) Hi I think Im loosing the plot a little here... 28-09-13.jpg The scary thing is I have a feeling Im not even half way through them (plus I can see some in that pic that need 'tweeking') M "Doctor, I'm having a problem with my stools..." However, the Foden is excellent. Edited September 30, 2013 by 2mmMark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Hello The Foden lorry is nearly done now... Just got varnishing and glazing to do now. Then its back to the point rodding for the layout. M 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Looks really good! It looks like the planks and the door outline came out particularly well on that print. Are the door handles paint, or have you stuck something on there? Also, how did you do the wing mirrors and radiator cap? I like the nice, neat silvering around the windows, your trick of just painting the inside edges works better than my attempt. I'll look forward to seeing it glazed. Good job getting the wheels on without breaking the leaf springs! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Thanks Rabs. The door handles are just bits of wire bent at right angles and stuck into drilled holes with superglue, the door mirrors are pretty much the same but with a bit of flat soldered to them to represent the mirror. The radiator cap is simply a piece of plastic rod glued to the grille and then filed down so its slightly raised. I did break a few bits during assembly including one of the springs but the bits seem to superglue back together well. The material is quite brittle, especially the thinner parts so care has to be taken during assembly. The trickest part I found was getting the cab to fit onto the chassis, I dont think I left enough clearance there. Thanks for printing this for me. I am looking forward to the next bits already... M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted October 14, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2013 Looks excellent Julia, glad you managed to get it printed in the end! Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted October 19, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 19, 2013 I have been working on finescaling a Farish WD 2-8-0. The first option was to retain the existing motion and just replace the wheels in the loco. I did this by soldering turn down frame bushes into the existing Farish bearings.Using the Farish coupling rods meant using 1.4mm o/s diameter rod or in my case, tube. I had to turn some 1.5mm tube to get to the 1.4mm. Re-assembling the wheels with the bearings on the axles meant using a quite short muff (c. 3.5mm) , and the gear carrying axle needed a pony truck muff. For the tender, I am waiting for a simle etched chassis to arrive from the etchers. Most of the block holding the tender wheels will need removing, just the front end forward of the front axle being retained. The second option for the loco is to replace almost all the motion with etched parts (also on their way). This will enable Association crankpins to be used. I've just managed to re-attach all the motion for option 1 and test run the loco. Performance was OK apart from a tight spot at one point in the wheel's revolution. I think this approach will work, and that the problem I encountered was due to execution rather than the method itself. I think I'd prefer option 2 though. Some pics attached. Note the large 'crankpins'. I didn't bother cleaning these up as I will be dismantling it all to carry out option 2. Nig H (having problems with the topic reply form) 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted October 19, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 19, 2013 That's looking good. Just changing the wheels (the etched inserts look very nice) makes a big difference even with the original valve gear and oversize crankpins. I take it the original wheels are stub axle castings with a larger diameter stub axle than 1.5mm. Pity they couldn't have used this size, it would have saved a lot of trouble and made conversion so much easier. Not quite diesel drop-in, but better than at present since retaining the heavier cast chassis seems preferable than an etched replacement given the light plastic bodies. As a North East Essex 60's diesel era modeller I keep telling myself I must resist the WD 2-8-0 (Vulcan was stationed at Cochester), and the Ivatt 2MT( also based there), but I'm finding my resolve weakening................ Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 I'm currently working on an LSW brake van. The chassis is an adapted Association etch for the 10' 6" underframe with the brake gear from the 10' fitted etch. The footboards are milled brass L section from Eileen's, hacked about. The body is scratchbuilt from plastic card and Evergreen styrene sections. The handrails are .008" guitar string. Why does the last one take as many tries to bend up as all the others put together? 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Delightful work as ever, Steve! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 That's very nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted October 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2013 Don't normally do the 'me too' type post but really is lovely work Steve. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted October 28, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) The new layout is planned to be late 50's early 60's Southern. As part of it I thought it would be an idea to add a DC auto shuttle branch with no points with the purpose of using it as a test track, but how to incorporate it within the general theme until I spotted this on shapeways and took the plunge setting the layout strictly London suburban No intention of converting to 2mm as the N wheels run fine on easitrack and turning the traction tyres would I think prove problematic I need to lay the 3rd and 4th rail now ! Edited December 23, 2019 by nick_bastable 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted October 29, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2013 Currently on my 2mm workbench... Just taking a brief sabbatical...will be back soon... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Just got the bits for a Jinty conversion from shop 3. So that's on my "workbench" along with the usual assortment of EM and American N stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 30, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2013 Currently on my 2mm workbench... image.jpg Just taking a brief sabbatical...will be back soon... It was about 30 years later that I came back to doing some 2mm after being seduced by 7mm. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 The LSW brake van has inched a bit nearer to completion. The body and underframe are pretty much complete now though I still need to add some weight; the roof is not yet attached as the next step is to paint the van prior to inserting the glazing. The roof will then be stuck on. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Hi Steve that's a loveley model could you tell me the weight of your wagons as I'm new to 2mm Many thanks John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Hi Steve that's a loveley model could you tell me the weight of your wagons as I'm new to 2mm Many thanks John Hi John, I normally use a 1cm square piece of lead flashing stuck under the underframe where it can't be seen. I'm not sure what that equates to in grams; plastikard wagons are very light so it just gives them a bit more heft. I think the 4mm aim is something like 30g per axle so I suppose the 2mm equivalent would be an eightth of that. Pragmatic approach seems to work, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Thanks John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Been working on my Jinty chassis. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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