Georgeconna Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 Thanks lads for the input, Very helpful, The motor and gears came today (ballsed up the ones I got orginally) so I be sticking those in when the headache has gone!!! cheers George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgeconna Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 After a short break from a disaster with the gears picking a fight with a soldering iron I received the replacement parts so work has re commenced. I went with soldering on the easist handrails and left the smoke box one till another time as time pushed on. Then came the trickiest bit for me next to the chassis, The gearbox, Not reading the instructions also did not make it any easier . The unit is from High Level Precision gearboxes when I had this installed I connected up the power and the wheels turned for the 1st time. Timecheck was 0130rs so then time for bed. I have also noticed I have not put the spacer in stage one so need to remedy that tonight. Read the instructions again!! I hope to do the connecting rods next so any pointers, hints or tips. greatly accepted!!, The rust will sand off the wheels handlily enough. I read on here it is a problem with Gibson wheels (or some people do have issues with them) Tks George. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 .....The rust will sand off the wheels handlily enough. I read on here it is a problem with Gibson wheels (or some people do have issues with them) It's a problem with any steel-tyred wheels. Yours are fairly mild compared to some I've seen. The ones on my Standard Five are in similar condition to yours, but have been on a shelf for about ten years...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 It's probably the fumes off "that" flux. The only wheels that I have had problems with have been the Exactoscale coach/wagon wheels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Hi George Apart from checking clearances I leave the wheels off until as late as possible, usually until after the chassis and frames are painted,otherwise its easy to get flux residue on the tyres or axles. I haven't seen the Bandon Tank kit but I would expect the rods to be fabricated in the usual manner in two layers. I find its easiest to solder the two layers together while they are still on the fret, usually the two layers are joined at the oil boxes and simply fold over. Section of SSM J26 coupling rod. Its important to check that the rod and axle bearing centres line up otherwise its impossible to get decent running, Marikits and a few other suppliers sell hornblock alignment jigs which is basically a set of extended axles with turned down or pointed ends, these are usually used for setting up the hornblocks in a compensated chassis, but can be used to check the rods in a rigid chassis. I would suggest getting a set of 1/8" & 2mm parallel reamers for boring out the axle brushes and a set of small tapered reamers from Eileens, Proops or Micromark http://www.micromark.com/micro-size-precision-reamers-set-of-6,6759.html for opening out the holes in the rods. The secret with setting up the rods is to open up the holes in the rods gradually working with two pairs of wheels at a time until you get free running. For quartering wheels I use a GW models quartering jig with press fit wheels like Gibson, if you are thinking seriously of building more Irish locos in OO its probably a better option to use Marikits or Romford style wheels for ease of use, the slightly wider wheel thread helps to partially disguise the undersized track gauge. The other thing to be aware of is that the bogie wheels may bind or short against the frames on curves, its a common problem with bogie locomotives on small radius curves, it may be necessary to either reduce the size of the wheels, or insulate/increase the size of the framee opening above the bogie wheels. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgeconna Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Thanks for the input John, I managed to get the connecting rods and quatering done earlier this week but did not have time to put the pics up till now. I was short 1 bush in the pack supplied and managed to damage a crank pin so a quick phone call to Gibsons shorted that issue out. I test ran the chassis and it runs OK which I hope will improve after a bit of running in. The smoke box hinges were assembled and the lamp irons soldered on.Heres the Latest pics taken this am. I need to do a cab floor and the smoke box handrail and some little detail parts to finish off. I will look into the sugestions you mention though as having the proper tools for the job do make it a whole lot easier!! Looking forward to gettting a coat of paint on this girl now! cheers George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaternosterRow Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 Gotcha!! Hi George - found you on here at last. Blimey - your good at this kit building lark aren't you? This is seriously good workmanship and demonstrates that I'm only just beginning at this hobby as I clearly couldn't do anything like that. Brilliant stuff. It was great talking to you today down at the shop and I can't wait to see you start posting pics of the new layout - looks like a great and very interesting project. I'll be back down to the shop soon for another chat mate - take care and keep posting. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
status quo Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Hi Great job on building kit. I am currently building the same kit and was wondering what colour of paint to use when its complete. Cheers Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weshty Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 George, Great photos and you've done a really fine job on the model. Thanks for the write-up. It almost seems a shame to paint her! The rivetting detail looks very well. I'll have to send you down a D17 whenever I get 'round to designing one. Regards Weshty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I will have to have a D17 too when ever you get around to it George, Great photos and you've done a really fine job on the model. Thanks for the write-up. It almost seems a shame to paint her! The rivetting detail looks very well. I'll have to send you down a D17 whenever I get 'round to designing one. Regards Weshty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weshty Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Good man John, I've done some prelim work, so come Autumn '13, may well settle down to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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