Jump to content
 

tender drive components


sej

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm going to scratch-build an LSWR 4-4-0 tender loco in 2mm Finescale and am wondering what readily available bits and pieces people would recommend for the motor/gearbox drive system? I would like it to have the motor in the tender with a UJ coupled to a gearbox in the loco.

 

Regards

 

Simon

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Simon,

 

I've just realised that no-one has responded to your question.

 

I'd recommend that you get hold of the 2mm SA publication on split frame chassis design, and also the 2mm magazine back-numbers CD. Both contain useful info/articles on the subject of UJs and gearboxes. There is also a download in the members area of the 2mm website on building a Great Eastern 0-6-0 tender loco which is well worth a look.

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

The instruction sheets for the 2mm etched replacement chassis for various locos may give you a few ideas 

 

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7V9MIj3SLTgYTZkZGM1NDEtZTQxNi00ZGM5LTg5ZDUtMGU3NGY0NWI0MDM1/edit?pli=1

 

and the associated drawings sheet 

 

http://2mm.org.uk/products/instruction_sheets/chassis_combined_drwgs.pdf

 

Assuming you are a member of the 2mm Scale Association, their Yahoo group may be a better place to ask this question. It is likely that everyone will have a slightly different answer ;)

 

Area group blog sites like http://neag.2mm.org.uk/ often have photos and descriptions of loco builds, but need time to trawl through.

 

Here are Tony Simms D49 construction articles http://neag.2mm.org.uk/search/label/D49

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I'm going to scratch-build an LSWR 4-4-0 tender loco in 2mm Finescale and am wondering what readily available bits and pieces people would recommend for the motor/gearbox drive system? I would like it to have the motor in the tender with a UJ coupled to a gearbox in the loco.

 

Regards

 

Simon

Sorry this may be a bit late for you but I don't look here very often. If it's still of interest I have a friend who's building a 2mm finescale LSWR T9 4-4-0 with both the 8 wheeled 'Watercart' and standard 6 wheeled tender. If you contact me offline with a message if you're still interested I will ask him if I could give you his email address. He doesn't post here anymore but I let him know whenever i see him if I see anything that might really be of interest.

Oli

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hello Simon,

 

I built a Midland 4-4-0 many years ago using an arrangement similar to that shown in this photo. The chassis at the front is the one I refer to. A 38:1 worm on the driver, no spur gears. You will need to scheme an arrangement out, assuming say a 10mm diameter can motor in the tender, then see how the gearing can be fitted in. It helps if you have a cad package, but I did the 4-4-0 with pencil and paper.

 

post-12813-0-31558400-1364291366_thumb.jpg

 

There are some pics on this thread which may also give you some ideas.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66582-modelling-a-2mm-finescale-duchess/

 

If you have more queries, do ask.

 

Nig H

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

N brass are now making ball & socket UJ drive bits. They are made to suit 1.5mm shafting but look 'convertable' to match your needs. I haven't tried them yet, but intend to in a Bo-Bo diesel chassis that is 'in progress'.

 

Izzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

N brass are now making ball & socket UJ drive bits. They are made to suit 1.5mm shafting but look 'convertable' to match your needs. I haven't tried them yet, but intend to in a Bo-Bo diesel chassis that is 'in progress'.

 

Izzy

 

Has anyone used these? I found that the ball & socket parts were too tight a fit meaning that the UJ shaft was "biased" and wanted to spring to one side, rather than lying in line with the motor and worm. Multiply by two for each end and I was worried about the friction this was going to cause. I didn't fancy trying to fettle the plastic parts and  ended up making my own.

 

Andrew

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...