Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Hey, I was earlier advised to go HO scale for my project to build a model (actually 12 of them) of the WDP-4B/WDG-4 of the Indian Railways. However I struck a problem. Initially I intended to use just a single powered bogie, but I couldn't do that at either end because one end has the cab and the other has see through grills. So now I need to get a centrally mounted motor, fly-wheels and the bogies all custom made. Where can I get that from? IMO the current spares that are available on ebay from Hornby might be too big. I've posted pics of the loco and a diagram. So please help me. I don't know much about drive systems so therefore I need a sort of custom made easy to build kit (might be asking for too much there). Jerry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 That loco looks to be based on a standard US builder's design. One approach would be to research whether a correct chassis can be found RTR under the model of the US type. Build it yourself, Hollywood Foundry offer a kit chassis range that fits the bill, scroll down the link. http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/#diesel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Hi Jeremiah The transmission arrangement you've drawn mirrors an Athearn r-t-r diesel and they look to be EMD trucks, I'd suggest one of their "blue box" SD45s as a donor. Check out Walthers.com for additional A-line transmission parts if you need to extend the drive shafts or use a Mashima motor. Any chance of posting some pictures as you progress? Hope this helps Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 I will post pictures but it will take long as I am just starting to design the shell. I was looking at Mehano Class 66 bogies http://www.stevenvolp.nl/media/6/MEHano%20class66.jpg they are identical to what I want. Thanks for the links Nick and 34thletter betweenB&D. I am not looking to transplant etc. I would like to have a custom built chasis so I can design the loco around it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSB Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 As you appear to be modelling 5ft 6in gauge wouldn't it be better to adopt 3mm scale on H0 gauge track? In H0 scale the gauge works out at 19.25mm and the nearest commercial gauges to this are American 0n3 and P4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 I am not too bothered about the gauge. Just the detail on the loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 You could try registering your interest in a Railflyer traction motor, or a bogie fitted with them......? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Hi Jeremiah Any chance of posting some pictures as you progress? Nick Still a bit of work to do. Have to add the windows, headlights, warning flasher, MU connector and a few more grills. Bogies will be made or I'll use mehano Class 66 bogies Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 I'm happy with the way the whole model has turned out so now I have redone the entire thing so that it is easy to print. It now comes in two parts - Chassis + Cab and Main Body/hood. Pics coming up in a while. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Here it is in two parts. 1) The chassis and cab (99% complete) 2) The main body/hood (55% complete) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Spent the afternoon concentrating on the left hand side of the hood. Only thing left on the left is the hood doors. Added the radiator/DBR grills which I am absolutely pleased with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 I can see you have left gaps on the chassis centre line either end to allow the bogie gear towers to come through; but on the hood unit there appears to be a solid plate at the non-cab end, which will cover off the gear tower gap provided in the chassis. Have you given thought yet to what bogie pivot arrangement you are going for? Of the three OO RTR manufacturers products I have looked at, all use different techniques: pivot quite high above the worm gear or clip in guides either side of the gear tower (Bach) a pivot on a transverse beam at the same height as the worm (Hj) a side guide arrangement secured by a clip on retainer quite low down around the gear tower (Ho). They all work adequately, and there are yet further possibilities... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 I can see you have left gaps on the chassis centre line either end to allow the bogie gear towers to come through; but on the hood unit there appears to be a solid plate at the non-cab end, which will cover off the gear tower gap provided in the chassis. Have you given thought yet to what bogie pivot arrangement you are going for? Of the three OO RTR manufacturers products I have looked at, all use different techniques: pivot quite high above the worm gear or clip in guides either side of the gear tower (Bach) a pivot on a transverse beam at the same height as the worm (Hj) a side guide arrangement secured by a clip on retainer quite low down around the gear tower (Ho). They all work adequately, and there are yet further possibilities... I will design something that would resemble Hornby's mechanism as I prefer Hornby any day. Due to the angle of the picture you are getting confused. There is adequate space behind the cab and then the cut-out section. As stated before it still isn't complete and I did remove the end part of the hood later. It's still being done so I will post pictures soon. Thanks for your pointers. I have another query in the next post because as you can see in the pics there are a lot of restrictions on space. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/The%20Kit.htm In this diagram and in the images shown, the gear tower is towards the front of the bogies. This is a bit of a pain for me as the cab is on one end and the other end is supposed to have see-through grills. Is there anyway in which I may get bogies where the gear tower is towards the back of the bogie i.e. the two inner most axles. I've done a very horrible drawing to show you'll what I mean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 The model is complete!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Due to a few issues, I had to re-design a few parts. Therefore now I have the model in 4 parts instead of 2. IMAGE 1: Cab an Chassis: This part has had a few changes. I made the chassis hollow and removed the gaps for the bogies. I've even hollowed out the cab, fuel tank and battery box. This was intentional so as to reduce costs. The result I pay $18 less. IMAGES 2 and 3: Hood: The intricate radiator detail had to sadly be removed, now it is hollow and there are lugs to hold a radiator panel. Apart from this there are no other changes. IMAGE 4: Radiator panel: I had to redo this, it's a simple design. I decided to use etched grills and fans, custom designed for this to enhance it. IMAGE 5: HTSC bogies: Here's where my laziness affected the design the most. Result a basic bogie frame, far from the level of detail on the rest of the model. I'm still on the hunt for a simple cheap drive system. Thinking of using something that is similar to Hornby's railroad range. Single bogie drive with all-wheel pickups. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted April 18, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 18, 2013 IMAGE 5: HTSC bogies: Here's where my laziness affected the design the most. Result a basic bogie frame, far from the level of detail on the rest of the model. I'm still on the hunt for a simple cheap drive system. Thinking of using something that is similar to Hornby's railroad range. Single bogie drive with all-wheel pickups. A single motor bogie would be difficult in such a thin bodyshell, maybe the one from a Hornby 58? Otherwise, why not try and pick up a cheap(ish) US-outline model with similar bogies? Even if you only want one driven to leave room for the see-through grilles, it would be easy enough to modify one bogie to be unpowered. Even if the bogie detail isn't perfect, it might still be better than too little detail. JD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 A single motor bogie would be difficult in such a thin bodyshell, maybe the one from a Hornby 58? Otherwise, why not try and pick up a cheap(ish) US-outline model with similar bogies? Even if you only want one driven to leave room for the see-through grilles, it would be easy enough to modify one bogie to be unpowered. Even if the bogie detail isn't perfect, it might still be better than too little detail. JD Hi JD, I am thinking of looking out for a very cheap Hornby single drive unit. Something from a Class 153 or something like that. The see through grill won't make much of a difference as there are parts of the loco visible through the grill like the Class 60. Another option would be to look for a spare Hornby/Ex-Lima Class 67 drive system, Hornby had updated it (before the re-tooled version) with a centrally mounted motor with fly wheels. I need just the motor and one flywheel. I could also try and contact www.motorbogies.co.uk to see if they can do a custom bogie with a Mashima MHK1015 motor (The smallest available). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 THE START OF AN ''N'' GAUGE WDM-3A ''BALDIE'' (Baldie is a term given to it coz of the rounded short hood) Here's what I have done so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeonbear Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 You are two years ahead of me. Lol I want to build HO scale model of this too. And I'm even ready to order parts and program chips to let it compatible with DCC, and I even got my own method to solve the gauge difference to keep its body in 1:87. Just need the accurate drawings or 3D models. If we can cooperate on that then I think I can produce that in next 2 monthes with my spare time spent on that. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeonbear Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 don't worry about motor and gears, I can help you to do these, but I really need assistance of its shape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 You are two years ahead of me. I want to build HO scale model of this too. I even got my own method to solve the gauge difference to keep its body in 1:87. Lol!! Well in all honesty we are actually a year and a half ahead in our development program :D Whilst I post on RMweb, HornbyFAN posts on other forums and social networking sites as he has a little more spare time - We have already started work on a WDM-3D in HO scale. A WDM-3A (5 variants are on the list) but not yet finished. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92038-my-3d-modelling-efforts-ho-scale-wdm-3d/ - The best way to solve the gauge and the easiest way is to use P4 gauge track. HornbyFAN and I have discussed it at length many a time. Rather than have meters upon meters of handbuilt track using P4 is as close as possible as anyone can get. Cheers! J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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