RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 21, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2013 Allan, Apologies for not building your latest offerings, and as I'm on holiday from Sunday (to sunny North Wales) I'll not be able to do any modelling then, either. However, on my return, I'd like to give both of your latest plans a once over with some card & printed paper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 I also will be giving the last lot a plans a build, but as I am still doing the Wheel Rights (Dam you stubby for being so quick) it will be a while before I can post the results. Why does the lawn grow so quick, having to loose two evenings a week mowing the ruddy thing rather than modelling. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebs Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Stonework update with limited resources at work, Magnolia Emulsion, some unknown grey emulsion and a bit of brown photo touching ink - this is what I came up with 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Very good, Lee.This is the start of something here! cheers, Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) The base stone walling seen here, was produced by gluing a sheet of Slaters Heavy embossed stone upside down to a solid base, building up a shallow wall around the mould, then after brushing the stone effect over with a releasing agent - vaseline will do - pouring in a thin mix of Pollyfilla, water and PVA into the mould. When released, it will still be soft enough to cut through and glue into place where once full exposed will air dry rock solid in a day or two after which it can be coloured with either matt enamels, acrylics, watered down emulsion, Wood dyes - as used here - etc, but on reflection, I don't know why I bothered and haven't done it since ! Edited August 21, 2013 by allan downes 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 The base stone walling seen here, was produced by gluing a sheet of Slaters Heavy embossed stone upside down to a solid base, building up a shallow wall around the mould, then after brushing the stone effect over with a releasing agent - vaseline will do - pouring in a thin mix of Pollyfilla, water and PVA into the mould. When released, it will still be soft enough to cut through and glue into place where once full exposed will air dry rock solid in a day or two after which it can be coloured with either matt enamels, acrylics, watered down emulsion, Wood dyes - as used here - etc, but on reflection, I don't know why I bothered and haven't done it since ! IMG_0166 - Copy.jpg Allan, the effect is brilliant..it adds another quality to the stone sheet and gives characteristics such as porosity and the ability to scribe into the stone. I don't know whether it would work out cheaper than the sheet but it looks a lot more versatile! cheers, Iain 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Couple of more shots showing the wall in action - we live on the edge in this Thread ! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Allan, I wonder if this may be a good way to produce a "two sided" stone for a wall or something similar. If the mould depth is sufficient it would be a case of gluing the two halves together "back to back" assuming it could be arranged so the stones and mortar courses line up! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) Allan, the effect is brilliant..it adds another quality to the stone sheet and gives characteristics such as porosity and the ability to scribe into the stone. I don't know whether it would work out cheaper than the sheet but it looks a lot more versatile! cheers, Iain Iain, you're right about the 'extra quality', It looke like stone - because in a sense, I suppose it is - and allows any colouring to penetrate as opposed to just sitting on the surface in a dead lump - and why I use wood dyes wherever I can - penetration allowing the colour to come from within and not just sit there lifeless and limp and this is begining to sound like something it's not supposed to, so I'll quit while I'm ahead ! As for cost it probobably works out at about 10p a sheet, but a Slaters sheet can be used instantly whereas making a moulded copy, including drying time, will take a good day so in the respect, it ain't cheap and in my opinion, just ain't worth the effort when you consider what you might have actually gained - just another version of Slaters stone walling. Stuff like this I would say would depend on what you were modelling - a set scene to live in a cabinet, give it all you've got. As part of a rambling layout where much of the detail is lost to the overall presentation, then something that's near enough, but still very effective, will do - in short, sometimes we can try to hard to achieve what a quicker and less labour intensive method can also achieve but without half the hassel - like adopting kids instead of having the missus lumber about like a blimp for nine months and I really don't believe that I've just made that comparison here on a model railway site !!! Cheers. Allan. Edited August 21, 2013 by allan downes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Allan, I wonder if this may be a good way to produce a "two sided" stone for a wall or something similar. If the mould depth is sufficient it would be a case of gluing the two halves together "back to back" assuming it could be arranged so the stones and mortar courses line up! Yes, that would work, but since you can't possibly see both sides of a wall at the same time, matching up the courses wouldn't be that important. Cheers. Allan. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebs Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) Stuff like this I would say would depend on what you were modelling - a set scene to live in a cabinet, give it all you've got. As part of a rambling layout where much of the detail is lost to the overall presentation, then something that's near enough, but still very effective, will do - in short, sometimes we can try to hard to achieve what a quicker and less labour intensive method can also achieve but without half the hassel - like adopting kids instead of having the missus lumber about like a blimp for nine months and I really don't believe that I've just made that comparison here on a model railway site !!! Cheers. Allan. Cheers. Allan. this is a very good point - I made about 2 metres of retaining wall using Scalescenes printed sheets - it looked good from a distance and even from operating distance. I didn't feel it was "finescale" enough, so I ripped it all out . I wish I'd left it alone now All of this is now gone: Edited August 21, 2013 by freebs 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 this is a very good point - I made about 2 metres of retaining wall using Scalescenes printed sheets - it looked good from a distance and even from operating distance. I didn't feel it was "finescale" enough, so I ripped it all out . I wish I'd left it alone now All of this is now gone: DSC04453.JPGDSC04453.JPG I think we've all been down that road Freebs, ripping something out then after wishing we hadn't ! - How do you thing Iain reaches such perfection,,,,,by listening to me (and Petra) did I hear you say ? - well yeh, and that of course ! BTW.like your layout Freebs, coming on just a treat. Cheers. Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 this is a very good point - I made about 2 metres of retaining wall using Scalescenes printed sheets - it looked good from a distance and even from operating distance. I didn't feel it was "finescale" enough, so I ripped it all out . I wish I'd left it alone now All of this is now gone: That is such a shame, Lee. It kinda reminds me a little bit of Glasgow Queen Street, only you have scenery where there would be buildings. I covered the insides of my clay dries with the excellent Scalescenes breeze block paper, as making them from scratch would not add anything much to the show...they could hardly be seen. I have often been fooled at Model Railway shows by brickpaper, which o0ften looks better than embossed brick sheet. Foamex, though...now that's a whole new three ring circus! cheers, Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 That is such a shame, Lee. It kinda reminds me a little bit of Glasgow Queen Street, only you have scenery where there would be buildings. I covered the insides of my clay dries with the excellent Scalescenes breeze block paper, as making them from scratch would not add anything much to the show...they could hardly be seen. I have often been fooled at Model Railway shows by brickpaper, which o0ften looks better than embossed brick sheet. Foamex, though...now that's a whole new three ring circus! cheers, Iain The most realstic printed brick and random stone sheets I have ever seen are available from Faller Scenic Accessories - from even close up it's difficult to tell that it's not actually embossed. The random stone walling can just about be seen on the pictures below. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 That Faller stonework does look good. I understood that they had discontinued it, certainly according to the Gaugemaster site? I still remember the stuff they made in the sixties, if I may be permitted a dinosaur moment. The inimitable David Jenkinson constructed most of his seminal "Marthwaite" from it and I always admired his structures. In a similar period, Dave Howsam made some beautiful GWR structures for his "Porthleven" layout...I saw these in the flesh and they were made from brickpaper and card, but were lovely. I will have to scurry into my RM back-numbers now! Another superb brickpaper is the Paper Creek range, although they seem to be discontinuing it, gawd knows why! Heki Bord is quite good, again I think it is available from Blackwells of Hawkwell or Gaugemaster. cheers, Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dorset Wanderer Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 After the roof had been redone- ground cover goes everywhere! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 I remember the Faller stuff from years back also, used quite a bit attempting an 009 coffee table "llareggub" type layout! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Faller red brick. Also - slate wall - sandstone - cobblestone. From HOWES OF OXFORD. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 FALLER cobbles. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 That brick looks great! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Below FALLER supposed slate walling and brick tunnel liner. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) Below FALLER supposed slate walling and brick tunnel liner. 170618__75919.1322151599.1280.1280.jpg170624__14337.1322740637.1280.1280.jpg Hi Allan, Assuming its Faller HO 607, I've had several sheets of it for years. If it was the right size it would make excellent old red brick, but - no surprise - its far too big. Alan Gray "ST George's Pit" - Railway Modeller May 2013 - uses it for 7mm brick which is what I'm saving it for. Its tempting to copy it and reduce it (OK-ish for personal use, perhaps) but the real stuff has a nice degree of print-texture. I don't think its available now but I'd be happy to be proved wrong. I've not seen the stone, but it does look good. I'm a huge Scalescenes fan but I don't like the rough stone at all; its photographically accurate - 'cos that's how he does it - but rough stone needs texture, end of Tony. ( - Talk about weak willed! - confusing it with a social life, obviously - sad git!) Was it really listed as tunnel-liner!? . Edited August 21, 2013 by Brass0four Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted August 21, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 21, 2013 Love the brick tunnel liner. Question is, how to line a curved tunnel? This was carved from foam insulation with an angle grinder and table saw in case anyone is curious. Regards Shaun. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) Love the brick tunnel liner. Question is, how to line a curved tunnel? tunnel (1).JPG This was carved from foam insulation with an angle grinder and table saw in case anyone is curious. Regards Shaun. Nice one Shaun! Trust you to go the distance! Shaun's layouts are worth a look, guys, particularly for British layouts built in the US. Tony. ('Mines a pint.) PS: hope you wore a mask! Edited August 21, 2013 by Brass0four Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 After the roof had been redone- ground cover goes everywhere! I think I was in that barn a few weeks ago! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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