Faulty Hornby DC controller

[philsandy]

I bought a second hand Hornby R965 DC controller from my local model shop, just for checking  that new locos run OK before converting them to DCC.

I've had 3 faulty ones, which I have taken back each time and the shop has exchanged with absolutely no problem, in fact he could not be more helpful.

2 of them have had the same fault, ie. when the speed control knob is turned off the loco on the track is still creeping ever so slowly along.

The fact that 2 out of the 3 have done this makes me wonder if this is this a common fault with these controllers?  Has anybody else come across this problem?

.

[Simon G]

Yes, I have seen this problem in one of these controllers.  My own opinion on the R965 is that I wouldnt give it house room!  As you say, locos still run when they should be at a standstill, the general controllability isnt very good and I dont much like the look of it.  My advice would be to see if your local shop will exchange towards a better quality controller.

Cheers, Simon

[Hesperus]

I've just bought one of these secondhand, thought I'd best test it with the multimeter before use and it's putting out 22v DC, I checked the power supply and thats only 18v AC so I tried supplying it with the correct 16v AC and it's still 21v so then I tried 12v DC as an input and still got 18v out the other end.<br /><br />I'm not entirely sure how it's possible to end up with a higher output voltage than the input considering the components inside.

[kevinlms]

I've just bought one of these secondhand, thought I'd best test it with the multimeter before use and it's putting out 22v DC, I checked the power supply and thats only 18v AC so I tried supplying it with the correct 16v AC and it's still 21v so then I tried 12v DC as an input and still got 18v out the other end.<br /><br />I'm not entirely sure how it's possible to end up with a higher output voltage than the input considering the components inside.

You can't test it properly on no load. As soon as you connect a usable load, such as a model locomotive!, the voltage will drop significantly.

 

The cause - because it isn't regulated.

[philsandy]

I took it back to the shop I bought it from, and he exchanged it for a secondhand Graham Farish AGW PE 860 transformer /controller, which seems to work well enough.

These Hornby controllers are obviously inferior, they certainly look cheap and extremely nasty.

[Hesperus]

You can't test it properly on no load. As soon as you connect a usable load, such as a model locomotive!, the voltage will drop significantly.

 

The cause - because it isn't regulated.

Well done sir, still a little wary I connected it to my shunting plank with the multimeter connected in parallel. I placed a Hornby 0-4-0T upon the track and expecting smoke switched it on, and it ran really quite well for two lengths before the overload cutout overloaded.

 

Anyone know of a good alternative that will power double headed triang engines, won't cost the earth to buy or to post to my friend in Israel who's old Triang controller has stopped working (it still supplys 12v DC and 16v AC so we only really need a controller rather than a power supply)

 

 

Thanks and sorry for the Hi-jack

[Simon G]

Hammant and Morgan used to do a simple controller that took a 16V AC input from such as a Duette controller and was capable of running more than 2 old Triang locos - I know because I used to do it in the 1960s/70s.  It also fits the bill for posting as it is relatively small and light (compared to a Duette!).  It is bigger than say a handheld Guagemaster controller.  If you are interested, I will try to dig my old one out and upload a photo and model number etc?

Simon

[Hesperus]

To be fair I know exactly the controller that you're on about, it's good to have a recommendation for it though.

 

Thanks