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Section Switch Cabinets


Pete 75C

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I've made a start on Lots Road http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/71762-lots-road-sw7-1975-urban-terminus/, my 1970s BR/LT South West London layout. Baseboards are finished and I'm weathering and detailing a section of double track District Line set in a shallow cutting before it becomes inaccessible as the layout progresses. I've got hold of a pair of Metromodels section switch cabinets (the older wooden type) for no other reason than I think they look great. Can anyone tell me the purpose? Would they be found at a break in the conductor rail, for example?

Thanks, Pete.

 

post-17811-0-73232700-1370289121_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Metro Models site says they are for traction current, in pairs. See their description.

 

Thanks, but I have read their description "These distinctive yellow cabinets house traction current section isolation switches". That's slightly ambiguous and is a bit like saying a signal box controls signals. I'm still unsure as to where they should be placed in relation to the track.

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Thanks, but I have read their description "These distinctive yellow cabinets house traction current section isolation switches". That's slightly ambiguous and is a bit like saying a signal box controls signals. I'm still unsure as to where they should be placed in relation to the track.

Fair enough.

I'm sure there are many photos online ( bowroaduk on flickr )and in books which would help.

The obvious go see for your self may not work because you might not live in / near or be able to get to London easily.

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  • 1 year later...

As an aside been passing Ealing Broadway many times of late, there is a pair of older wooden section switch cabinets there, too far to photograph although maybe from passing train.

 

I work there. See them all the time!

 

There were some at Golders Green as well, I think.

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They are cabinets that are placed where two local electrical sections on the same line meet, and contain manual switches that connect the two sections together - The red labelled cabinets contains the switch for the positive (+420v) outside third rail, and the blue labelled cabinet contains the switch for the negative (-210v) centre fourth rail. The cabinets are placed alongside the lines concerned in pairs - 'Hope this helps!

 

:-)

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  • 3 months later...

I came across this thread while researching where to put these switches on my layout.  Thought this picture might be of interest; four together and of the two different shapes:

 

6136152696_c4834d483c_z.jpgHammersmith train No. 227 by Cookiein7, on Flickr

 

Useful shot, thanks for that. HOW many cable runs...??? Just getting the lineside cabling looking believable on any Underground-themed model is a challenge!

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The only thing I can really add to this enquiry is when you finally come to run your cabling, have you considered using resin core solder painted black of course. It has the advantage over any other "cable" that it does not try and go back to its wound up state and always look like a spring. Of course you will have to super glue it into place as "You cannot solder solder!"

Here's a view of one of my cabinets on my layout "Meopham East Junction". Further photos can be found on the link below.

post-276-0-86635600-1413716581.jpg

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The only thing I can really add to this enquiry is when you finally come to run your cabling, have you considered using resin core solder painted black of course.

 

Excellent idea, many thanks. I've struggled in the past with various wire thicknesses, both insulated and uninsulated single core but that does sound like a much better idea, particularly as it holds its shape.

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Of course you will have to super glue it into place as "You cannot solder solder!"

 

With some practice, and an iron with a temperature-controlled bit, it is perfectly possible to solder solder by using the low melting point stuff as the "glue". If you are soldering it to something other than white metal, you will have to pre-tin the surface of the other metal first, but it can certainly be done.

 

Ah - and you will need to clean the surface of the cored solder first.

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With some practice, and an iron with a temperature-controlled bit, it is perfectly possible to solder solder by using the low melting point stuff as the "glue". If you are soldering it to something other than white metal, you will have to pre-tin the surface of the other metal first, but it can certainly be done.

 

Ah - and you will need to clean the surface of the cored solder first.

When I had several of your wonderful beers when last in Blankenberg for their show at the Casino with my layout, I couldn't find my way back to the hotel, never mind soldering!

post-276-0-35584200-1413799623.jpg

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One's system does get used to them eventually, but there are a few of them - Bush de Noel for example - which are as strong, volume for volume, as Aussie wines and I certainly avoid modelling after a glass of those. Delicious, though!

 

It was the Belgian modelling magazine's biennial exhibition at Leuven last weekend and they certainly had some excellent (and popular) beers on draught in the cafeteria there, but, then, even the local primary schools have bars (although not for the kids to imbibe).

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One's system does get used to them eventually, but there are a few of them - Bush de Noel for example - which are as strong, volume for volume, as Aussie wines and I certainly avoid modelling after a glass of those. Delicious, though!

 

It was the Belgian modelling magazine's biennial exhibition at Leuven last weekend and they certainly had some excellent (and popular) beers on draught in the cafeteria there, but, then, even the local primary schools have bars (although not for the kids to imbibe).

That's another reason for me continuing to like Belgium.   The organisers of the Blankenberg show gave us "Beer Tokens" and so when asked "What is the time?", the answer was always, "Beer o'clock!". This photo shows my colleagues operating "Hospital Gates" with drinks in hand.

post-276-0-94270400-1413883191.jpg

But enough of this divergence, let's get back to the subject. 

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