my kitbuilding efforts, BEV upgrade

[cheesysmith]

After showing you what my little girl has been doing, I think I might post some pictures of what I have een building, and any improvements I have done.



This is a cambrian spa kit, fitted with bill bedford sprung w irons, smiths screw link and Bachmann sprung buffers. It is still awaiting air pipe using repilca pipes and paint.



This is build using smiths screw links, Bachmann sprung buffers, and the small handrail on the end replaced with a wire made from the staple used to hold the pack together when bought.



This one has Hornby sprung buffer so as to represent the square buffer types. Notice under the handrail on the end, I have even attempted to model the footstep. This I made using the split pin that came with the screw links, having not used the spring system and just glued them in, and the buffer molding that came in the kit for the square buffers cut in half.

They have also been fitted with the colin craig etched disc brake inserts. The buffers used are the Hornby class 60 ones, and the Bachmann ones are the class 25 ones, both avalible as spares.

Comments anyone?

Edited July 10, 2018 by cheesysmith

[Colin parks]

Hi cheesysmith,

 

Interesting use of Bachmann spares on those Cambrian wagons (my brother's business). You seem to have been able to make these vehicles negotiate very tight curves. The sprung buffers must have been essential to prevent buffer-locking.

 

Nice work,

 

Colin

[cheesysmith]

They can actually get round 2nd radius curves like this. The problem is they get buffer interlocking when exiting the curves. Works better on 3rd radius or larger.

[cheesysmith]

his is my most recent kit, a parkside dundas lner riveted 21ton hopper. I have attempted to replicate the livery best described as rust with a bit of grey. I want to know, does this look effective?

 

 

 

 

 

PS, even I think these could do with better instructions, and that is after building 4 of them already.

[Mallard60022]

Yup, it looks rusty (and thus accurate).

P

[ikks]

Certainly looks the part to me........well done.

 

Rgds..........Mike

[cheesysmith]

Me was not totally happy with it, and have had a re-rust of it. Where I put the black ink wash to darken it, it gave it a too regular pattern.

 

 

 

Which do you think is most effective?

Edited July 12, 2013 by cheesysmith

[Castle]

Hi Cheesysmith,

 

I think that if you had a train with examples of all of the above then it would look great! No two wagons alike - brilliant stuff!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

 

Eydited four Spellin...

Edited July 14, 2013 by Castle

[farren]

Fantastic rust affect castle is right a train of them would look great on any layout. I would only say that some earth general muck would help as to me they look clean almost has if someone has washed a rusty wagon. Apart from that keep up the efforts 

[sandwich station]

As others have said, I like both the original weathering and the re-weathering. Maybe some with a little more grey paint showing, then dirty all of them up. Would look great as a full train.

 

Happy modelling,Peter

[brian777999]

I think the first example looked the best.... but that is in the photos. Photography does sometimes change the appearance slightly.

[cheesysmith]

]I have been building this lately, http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/br21thopperrivet/h34111d38

 

To build this, I used a lner riveted hopper wagon, with roller bearings left over from the spue off a grampus wagon, the end stations from the unrebuilt br hopper and modified the end handrails.

 

 

 

 

Sorry for the last photo, but this is the best the camera does on such small subject.

 

Now the only thing left to do is paint it , very rusty, and find some number that match the wagon.

[Fat Controller]

I would suggest that the number panels might be weathered a bit less- quite often, these were the only non-rusted bits on mineral wagons (both hopper and flat-bottomed). The weathering itself is an excellent job.

[cheesysmith]

or my latest wagon, a SPV dia 432 made from a parkside lner plate wagon, and some spares left in my bits box

 

 

 

 

 

This used some clasp brakes I had left over, brake levers from a Cambrian po wooden bodied wagon IIRC and the v hangers from spares left over from grampus wagons.

 

I have another one o build, I think this might be a dia 434 version.

Edited September 15, 2013 by cheesysmith

[cheesysmith]

Being a tight Yorkshire man, I was thinking of what to do with all the bits left over when building kits

 

 

Browsing Mr Bartlett`s website I noticed the dia 043 open wagon, and the comment of there is not enough models of open wagons.

 

So, using the LMS j hanger underframes from the parkside van kit, along with the alternate end cut down I came up with this.

 

 

 

So, comments anybody?

[cheesysmith]

I have this afternoon just done this. I know it should be in the modifying RTR section, but I like keeping every thing together.

 

 

 

It is a RT models conversion kit, picked up at Warley. Having just got a non sound fitted Europa Hornby 08 cheap for the master, I thought I should make a start on the slave.

 

it ain't finished yet, but not bad for a afternoon`s work.

[brian777999]

. Having just got a non sound fitted Europa Hornby 08 cheap for the master, I thought I should make a start on the slave.

 

 

How cheap is cheap ? All the second hand ones I see on ebay are almost the same price as a new one ! The 08's certainly hold their value.  I live in Australia so we do not have too many OO gauge swap meets here.

 

I thought that the 08's were pretty powerful shunters so what sort of loads required the extra slave units ?.

Edited December 27, 2013 by brian777999

[Buhar]

There were only three of them all converted for the hump yard at Tinsley and designated Class 13.  A conventional loco would have grounded on the crown so these provided an articulated solution.

[cheesysmith]

I got the Europa from newbyford of this parish, he was swapping the chassis over with a non sound one, so it was cheap. As to the class 13 shunters, there was ever only 3 built, because a normal 08 wasn't powerful enough to push a fully loaded train over the hump at tinsley due to the local environmental conditions. Tinsley was surrounded by steelworks with all the cr@p they chucked out, combined with the Yorkshire liquid sunshine (they kind of sunshine that gets you wet), and orgreave coking plant was just down the road. This meant that except on the rare dry days, the rails in the yard were coated in slime most of the time, especially the reception sidings that were in a steep narrow sided cutting (there was a tunnel here originally, that had been opened out to make the yard). As to why build one, well I did live next door to the yard until I was 12, and I just remember the shunters and the wood head electrics.

[cheesysmith]

well, I don't know what anybody else has done over Christmas, but having new years week off work has meant I have got some modelling done

 

so far, I have built 23 Cambrian bodies for rebodied 16 ton minerals, of which 5 are sat on parside chassis. I have even been making my own 3 links to go with the smiths hooks I got at Warley.

 

 

also, I have started on the other half of my tinsley hump shunter. my model I got for Christmas of Europa stayed untouched for almost a whole week.

 

 

the between loco pipes/wires will have to wait until I figure out if I want to through wire them, and Europa is going to need a good rub down before the blue is applied.

 

not bad to say the kids are off school this week, so the "daddy time" is limited.

 

edit-sorry for the poor photos, taken with my phone. the batteries in the camera are dead, and the kids have nicked all the rest in the house for their new toys.

Edited January 2, 2014 by cheesysmith

[cheesysmith]

Well, with the kids back at school, I had a free afternoon. this was a chance to get on with some half finished wagons I have awaiting my attention. 3 hours later, 2 parkside hoppers done.

 

 

 

By done, I mean 3 hours for the end struts and handrails. That only means I have another 6 bodies awaiting the same, with about 30 still in packs.

 

The handrails in this kit are a pain, but do make it what it`s supposed to be. Does anyone have any tips or shortcuts to share to speed this bit up?

[cheesysmith]

The photo above doesn't show it very well, but one has the side struts replaced with 1.5mm u section, after carving off the originals, to represent a huck bolt version. I tried adding bolt heads using superglue with a pin, but they didn't show up. The fitted one, the brake pipe running along the frame has fallen out, since reapplied. That was make using a big thick paper clip uncoiled and cut to size.

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Cheesysmith,

Good work there through the whole thread, I do like a good wagon build!

Sorry, no tips on the Parkside hopper build, I have only built two so far and that took long enough!

There is a method of doing bolt heads though, as you can buy (BUY???) decal sheets with rivets/bolt heads on see here: http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-decals-with-raised-3d-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html OR here: http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

I know they're H0 but I'd be happy using them for 4mm!

Cheers,

John E.

 

PS Available in the UK from DCC Supplies, Modeljunction and maybe, others!?!

Edited January 7, 2014 by Allegheny1600

[cheesysmith]

I have to admit I was looking for some archers rivet transfers when at Warley, but didn't find anybody with them. True, I was being distracted by my girl who was after some more wagons herself. I will see if there is any at the donny show, if not, will have to order online.

 

As too the handrails, with the numbers I have to build, think will have to make a jig to make assembling and cutting them to size quicker. After all, a jig doesn't have to be complicated. My jig for my home made 3 links is just a piece of 40thou (1mm) thick plasticard, cut aprox 3.5mm wide. Using this, you just wrap some wire round it, then cut down the middle on one side.

[SM42]

Many moons ago when I converted some Airfix 21t hoppers into Topes, I used florist's wire for the vacuum pipe along the frame.

 

I found it easier to mould to shape as it is quite soft. I used the (paper?) covered version as it was  thicker and something about the paper outer layer made it look right to me. It also takes paint  better than bare metal too. 

 

Andy