Little Chuffer Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 Hi Doug, Got your message - will send some photos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 Must stop for today - burnt fingers and tired eyes!! Quite pleased with how things are going - bodywork mainly complete, just some detailing parts, tank top bits and pieces etc. They'll be getting epoxied on tomorrow.............. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Starting to take shape now. Chimney, dome and filler cap added, along with front buffers, rear steps and sandboxes. These were simply glued in place apart from the rear steps which were soldered for strength. Smoke box door and handle added too. The smoke box handle is the incorrect pattern for as she is now, but I couldn't resist using the excellent casting from the kit! Asbestos has her fittings in different locations from the instructions, so these parts were positioned accordingly. The oval buffers she carries were taken from a Bachmann Mk1. Maybe not the perfect size, but they look good enough for me. I used the white metal castings for these and just replace the buffer heads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Enough for today. Happy with it though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david65061 Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Tim this is fantastic progress, I am really impressed. I have been working on mine on and off since November 2011 and am hoping to get the top coat of paint on this weekend. You'll probably beat me to the final completion. All the best David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Thanks David - really appreciate your comments. The standard of the kit is so high - I just can't put it down! Looking forward to seeing yours painted! I've sprayed a coat of primer over the body to see if there's any lumps or bumps! The injector pipework will go on last because I want to leave it as bare metal and to find its own shade. So - I must put it down now for today - the domestic director will be requiring fed on her return from work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Well you have done a great job... accellerating past mine.... I have to put the smoke box door on, sand boxes and a clean to catch up! I have to order the wheels yet I am a little cautious with the chassis as I want to put CSB's in all to P4 and I need to be very careful to get the clearances right!. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Well.............. This is where I start to get nervy. The chassis. My plan - read the instructions - find the bits - read the instructions - prepare the bits - read again - go away - read again - take a deep breath and start! I'll assemble on glass with a square. Might sound a bit over the top, but for a short wheelbase, 4 coupled loco, things are going to have to be accurate. Especially as I'm not springing or compensating. She'll be a sure test of my track laying ability too! So - frames are prepared - bearings in and reduced at the rear with the instructed detail parts fixed and filed wafer thin to clear the mechanism etc. Doug - I will get some photos to you - bear with me, just been a bit busy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Tim, Do give compensation a thought because, a) it will take a bit of the pressure of both building and tracklaying and, b) pickup will be better with all 4 wheels on the rails. I built the Neilson tank by the same maker and compensated it as per the instructions and it is a most reliable runner despite the small size. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Tim, Do give compensation a thought because, a) it will take a bit of the pressure of both building and tracklaying and, b) pickup will be better with all 4 wheels on the rails. I built the Neilson tank by the same maker and compensated it as per the instructions and it is a most reliable runner despite the small size. Cheers, David Thanks David - I will. The bearings are already in this one and fixed. Might not take much to pop them out and redo............. If I don't with this one - I'll try with the next, which will most likely be the six coupled side tank. Did you find fitting compensation quite straightforward? Not something I've done before....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Thanks David - I will. The bearings are already in this one and fixed. Might not take much to pop them out and redo............. If I don't with this one - I'll try with the next, which will most likely be the six coupled side tank. Did you find fitting compensation quite straightforward? Not something I've done before....... Not a big deal really. Chris also happens to make dandy hornblocks that are a snap to assemble and he gives great instructions with them. There's a step by step on the website http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ and check under Chassis. There is provision for compensation in the kit and instructions are given on page 5. I have the same kit quietly 'maturing' in my desk, that's how I knew what page Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Not a big deal really. Chris also happens to make dandy hornblocks that are a snap to assemble and he gives great instructions with them. There's a step by step on the website http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ and check under Chassis. There is provision for compensation in the kit and instructions are given on page 5. I have the same kit quietly 'maturing' in my desk, that's how I knew what page Cheers, David Thanks David. I'm going down the rigid route with this one. Simply because its a return to kit building after a long break. But, I'll remember what you've said and give it a go on the next one...............because with this kind of quality kit, there will definitely be one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 In the meantime - couldn't resist! Rolls lovely - no joggling about on a glass sheet, so I may just have got away with it - so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Tim, nice to see the progress. I have got the body just about done. The chassis is a bit different in that I am using the CSB's... So my chassis is a fair bit more complicated. Also it does complicate the instructions a fair bit... Have to think ahead to get the spring supports in and not restrict the spring action. http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2672&start=25 the link is back to my build! I know I won't get any thing done for the next couple of weeks we are very busy at work and at home! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Basic colour scheme applied - needs another coat of varnish. Crosshead and cylinder former trial fitted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Looking good there Tim. I have yet to have a go at anything other than a black loco. The RSH seemed to almost have a standard livery with could be interesting for a change from basic black. Now I have my wheels I may be able to get more done this weekend. Only bit of a problem is I might have to work Saturday to get a apartment block finished. GRRR. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Have you finished little chuffed. Mine has ended up quite a nice little runner! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Well - it's been a while since I was able to do much at all (once the NHS and the surgeon get hold of you it's a bit tricky to escape!). But - Asbestos is now in this form! Quite pleased and with a bit more running in it'll be time to add remaining detailing and lining Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Except the photo uploader seems to have a wee glitch! Will attempt later! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Starting to look the part Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Hi I have been building on of these, but ran into problems with the crank pins hitting the slide bars, Had to take a load off the back to get the clearance right. Did you run into this problem, your model looks very good in deeded!. Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Tim, glad to see you back out of the clutches of the surgeon! Asbestos is looking very nice. Darren- yes you have to thin down the crank pin nut to be well .... X rated..., both of my of my high level loco's have thinned down crank pins to the front axles. The connecting rod needs to be single thickness with Gibson crank pin nuts reversed with no bearings to the rods. This is all as per the instructions. One thing about Chris's kits is they are well thought out the instructions are fully thought out and comprehensive. Some kits have multiple options which you need to choose which option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Hi Darren, I too encountered this issue building the 0-6-0 Centenary Class version. I used Markits "Super-Deluxe" Crank pins and managed to slim them down from behind before being screwed into position, without having to alter the connecting rod thickness Hope that helps Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Blimy, I'm stalking you here Paul. I mentioned the other day, after you'd posted about them, that I'm fitting RT Models S&L buffers to a current project. Well it will also have Markits de-luxe crankpins! I haven't used them before. Other than screwing them down did you use anything to lock them in place like cyano or solder? Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Chuffer Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Hi guys, Thanks for the comments. Re pins and slidebars catching etc - the above covers most of the options! I basically followed the instructions - they're that good. Yes - some thinning down to be done and I did keep the connecting rod as single thickness just for that little extra room. As for securing the crank pins and retaining nuts - I just put a dab of enamel paint on the relevant points. Seems to hold things where I want them and should anything need removing it doesn't need much persuasion. Happy modelling peeps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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