Ruston 48DS 2mm FS chassis

[jackrob]

Hi there, 

             I've just come back from an extended period not modelling and was looking to re-ignite my interest by building a 2mm fine-scale version of the Ruston 48DS by using this 3d printed model from etched pixels as a base. Etched pixels recomends these (TU-7T) chassis and this is where my issue started. I will obviously need to re-wheel the chassis to fine scale standards and was wondering if anybody knows if this is possible? It would obviously become clear once the chassis is purchased, but because they are quite dear its worth knowing if anyone's had any experience.

 

I was actually wondering whether it might be better to scratch build my own chassis with the correct 4 hole wheels using 2mm association parts. Even so, are Ruston 48DS's wheels the standard 3ft 7in or smaller? I ask this because I've never seen one in the flesh and have a limited knowledge of these locos. If they are smaller I would like to know if any suitable wheels exist?

 

So, would it be better to scratch build some chassis or use the TU-7Ts?

 

Jack

 

(Also I hope this is the correct place for this thread. I thought they'd be a better chance of getting a good reply from this section of the forum than anywhere else)

[2mm Andy]

Hi Jack,

 

Probably the easiest way to get the chassis converted to 2mm finescale is to remove the wheels and send them away for turning using the wheel reprofiling service available to 2mm members (details in the yearbook). I don't have one of the chassis, so can't tell you whether this is possible though. However, I don't think the TU-7T chassis has the correct wheelbase for the Ruston 48DS. Certtainly the photos Alan has posted here seem to suggest that, so your suggestion of a scratchbuilt chassis might be a better option if you can work out how to motorise it.

 

The full size locos had 2'6" diameter wheels (5mm in 2mm scale). The only 2FS wheels available in that size are wagon wheels with plastic centres, but you might be able to find some N gauge wheels and get them reprofiled.

 

If you can find a copy, there is an excellent little booklet on the 48DS and 88DS locos published by the Moseley Railway Trust (and written by an RMweb member!). There is also a 2mm scale etch for a 48DS loco available from BH Enterprises. It's reduced from a larger scale, so some(most!) of the parts are v.small, but at least one 2mm member has built a working loco using these parts (and described it in Model Railway Journal numbers 124 and 125). There is a photo here;

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/galleries/agm-1998/07.jpg

 

Hope all that helps!

 

Andy

[jackrob]

Thanks, thats a great help! Having seen that picture of the etched pixels model with the off centre wheelbase, I'm certainly not going to use those chassis.

 

However, I'll certainly try and find those back issues and that little book and maybe I can combine the methods that the guy who built the BH enterprises kit used to motorise his model and still use the 3d print. 

 

Thanks for the help.

 

[Nigelcliffe]

The big problem with tiny models is weight.  I'm not convinced that a 3-D printed body is the "right" choice to get the weight up. 

 

A 48DS isn't where I'd start as a first scratchbuild mechanism.  Pick something bigger, where there is a decent amount of experience and readily available parts.   Do the 48DS once you've got some skills under your belt.

 

 

- Nigel  

[Tony Simms]

I've got over 25 years "experience" in 2mm, and my 48DS is still just a soldered up body shell! 

 

I'd agree with Nigel, try summat easier first.

[Revolution Mike]

I've got a 48DS and the TU-7T chassis waiting to be converted to 2mmFS.  Someone has done it on here (possibly Nick Bastable) by filing the wheels in a drill chuck IIRC.

 

There is room inside the 3D print to add some lead or tungsten.

 

Cheers, Mike

[nick_bastable]

Guilty as charged I adding a lump of brass rod over the chassis after removing the chassis mounting lug  works ok but not as well as the TU1 chassis which is only a simple single axle worm drive 

 

 

as requested by Branwell ( b$gg"r just noticed I've used a 15 Ω resistor instead  of the 150Ω  

 i intended   no wonder itrs fast ! )

 

[Branwell]

Thanks Nick - bit rapid is it?