Loco stopping on point

[CaptainBiggles]

I know the whole 3-way electrofrog point wiring thing has been discussed to death (see about 5 posts below this one for a start) but I'm afraid I need to create another, specifically the Peco assymetric 3-way electrofrog in code 55 N.

 

I read all the topics and guides online (Brian Lambert's was particularly good) and I've done the whole frog wiring thing (each dropper wire from the point goes to the pole of the relevant tortoise motor change-over switch) but my loco still stalls as soon as it hits the blades of the point.

 

Any ideas? Interestingly, I've used a multimeter to measure the voltage between the rails at various points along the point and measuring from wiper blade to opposite rail the voltage is about half that of the rail-rail voltage on the approach. Using a continuity checker between the dropper and blades I get an open circuit. Is it possible that the dropper has become detached from that part of the point, but still has continuity to the other frogs (as it still works on those)?

 

If anyone has any similar experiences I'd be most grateful for your advice.

 

Joel

 

 

[marc smith]

I'm not sure what it is,
but each time I wire a 3 way this sort of thing happens
Maybe it's a problem with contact from the point blade itself....

Peco points tend to rely too heavily on contact from the point blades
I always get trouble after weathering the track

You could try soldering a "jumper wire" or is it a bridging wire?
From the relevant stock rail, to the fixed end of the blade.....

Good luck, and let us know how you get on

[Miss Prism]

Bond the stockrails to their respective blades.

 

 

[Robin2]

Change to battery powered radio control and you don't need any point wiring!

 

...R

[marc smith]

Bond the stockrails to their respective blades.

 

turnout-wiring.gif

That's exactly what I was trying to say...

A picture really can be worth a thousand words

[CaptainBiggles]

Thanks for the tips guys, that's exactly what the problem was.

 

Now, anyone have any tips as to how to make the shorts? The point is already laid and ballasted. I've used small bits of wire bent and shoved in the gaps for now but they keep coming out and / or derailing my stock. I could try soldering but will prob melt the sleepers. What about using thing gauge spring wire?

[marc smith]

You could try using "springy" wire
but it may still pop out - these are the sort of things you discover,
if you ever move the layout about....

Especially when transporting about in the back of a car,
where it could be shaken & bounced out of position....
However, even if you're not moving the layout about
I'd still give the joints more permanence, by soldering....

Of course, that's just me, attempting to stop future gremlins....

Have you ever tried soldering using liquid flux?
That will help ensure a good joint,
and usually speeds the process up
So your soldering iron isn't on the point for such a long time.....

I use Carrs Green label (I think)
Other makes are available of course
It's relatively expensive, but I bought my pot about 22 years ago
and still have some left

 

I sometimes mislay it, and curse myself when soldering without it!

Good luck

 

Marc

PS. I have heard if you don't have liquid flux, some folk have used Coke!
Not so ridiculous as it sounds..... the acid in the drink acts like flux
but wash the sugar off afterwards!

 

EDIT: Several brands of that sugary carbonated stuff are also available

[CaptainBiggles]

Good point re: liquid flux, I have several bottles of the stuff having built 0 gauge locos. I'm a bit concerned about solder on the inside of the rails causing derailments by interfering with the flanges of the wheels, but I guess I can attempt to file it down afterwards. Maybe I could use low-melt solder as it's a bit softer and file any disturbing lumps away afterwards.

[marc smith]

Yes, stray blobs of solder can cause problems
But as you say, careful use of a fine file afterwards should clean things up....

Let us know how you get on with it.....

Marc


 

[Grovenor]

Since the track is already laid you do not want to be using corrosive liquid flux where it will be impossible to clean off afterwards. Clean the rail mechanically with  emery or a fine file tip, then use standard multicore solder as used for electroniscs, the rosin flux in thatt solder is non-corrosive and does not need clean up. I have always found it perfectly adequate for soldering wire to rail.

Keith

[marc smith]

Use of liquid flux speeds up the bonding process,
and is far better than solder containing flux...

It's not impossible to clean afterwards,

and in any case is corrosive only on certain metals - normally steel
If you're using nickel silver rail - the flux won't corrode the rail....

I've been using Carrs flux for over 20 years - I've built several layouts using it
and not had any problems yet

A couple of pals had problems, when using steel rail, and not cleaning it immediately afterwards

however, a bit of cleaning and even the steel rail was fine,
one of these was a club exhibition layout which lasted many years...

 

Marc