Northpoint Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 I have a couple of older Rivarossi/AHM streamline passneger cars and I want to remodel and repaint them so I need to take them apart. The bodysides and ends are all one moulding and the roof seems to be separate. There are lugs from the glazing in holes in the floor, but despite trying to shift these and grab the roof, nothing happens. Anybody any experience with thse and any tips on how to dismantle them? Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWB Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 You need to press all the tabs on one side toward the center at the same time and gently press upward on the roof. It's possible to press one or two tabs and rock the rest out as well -- gentle persistence is the key. I look forward to seeing what you're doing with these! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 If it works, John, I'm going to modify them as per an article in MR way back in May 1982 to represent VIA cars. According to the article, the VIA (nee CN) coach is the closest match to the AHM model and shouldn't need too much modification. I'll keep you posted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Of course, the expensive solution is the actual CN/VIA prototype coaches from Rapido which weren't around when that article was written. I would think that you could get a fair few AHM coaches for the price of a Rapido one, though. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Of course, the expensive solution is the actual CN/VIA prototype coaches from Rapido which weren't around when that article was written. I would think that you could get a fair few AHM coaches for the price of a Rapido one, though. Adrian I already have some of those and I wanted to add to the fleet (and do a bit of modelling as well!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Hi Nick Looking forward to seeing the train (and the layout). Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Success! It appears the first one of the three I tried was being difficult and wouldn't budge, hence I thopugh there was something I was missing and the call for help. After much cajoling, it finally exploded into its component parts - nothing appears to have broken. The other two were a piece of cake - came apart with very little pressure. Hi NickLooking forward to seeing the train (and the layout).Nick Layout - what layout?? Currently finishing off my Freemo module and yesterday I started looking seriously at my Dutch layout that I have promised a couple of shows (including your friends at Nottingham)..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Ok, so we now have the bodies removed. Next paint stripping - the first one (baggage car) - 2 hours in brake fluid and the paint just fell off. Next two (coaches) - in the brake fluid for 3 days and even with a scrub every so often with a brush, very little seems to be happening! Anybody any ideas of where to go next? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Make sure there aren't any raised areas/ridges from the original livery and then spray primer over the existing scheme. A fine primer like Tamiya white doesn't mask the detail. VIA blue will cover anything that shows through the primer. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 I had tought about that, Adrian. The original livery was GN Empire Builder. All the lettering has comeoff and some of the Pullman green. I need to check whether there is a ridge between the two colours. I recieved another in the post today. This one's UP so should be easier to deal with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colinw62 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Nick, not something I've done much of stripping paint from models. When we spoke I forgot about a product I did used called ModelStrip (Google brought up some interesting links!).... http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=MODELSTRIP&r=1 From what I can remember it pretty much got all the paint off but there were a few areas where it remained and needed a second dose, rub etc.... It's like a thick paste that you coat the model with then seal it in a poly bag and leave overnight, then wash off and scrub etc. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hi Nick I usually use sodium hydroxide oven cleaner either in an aerosol or liquid. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Thanks for the recommendations. I have given both coaches a coat of primer and it looks OK. There didn't seem to be any ridge line between the colours. Now to move on to altering the window configurations. Also waiting for Rapido decals to arrive from Walthers although that stage is a long way off at the moment. Another question - I notice that these cars have no "skirt" under the doors and have exposed steps. Anybody any ideas as to a source for steps? I have thought about cutting up an old caboose which I'm sure I have kicking about somewhere but I'm not sure whether the steps are right. Any ideas would be welcome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Hi Nick Cal-scale make what look like the right type 190-356 but they're out of stock at Walthers, I'd have thought caboose steps would be too narrow. The only other thing I could suggest is finding a scrap coach at a swap meet as a donor. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted August 10, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 10, 2013 You need to press all the tabs on one side toward the center at the same time and gently press upward on the roof. It's possible to press one or two tabs and rock the rest out as well -- gentle persistence is the key. I look forward to seeing what you're doing with these! Always tricky getting all the tabs at once. Worth cutting a few thin strips of plasticard to wedge in between and stop the tab relocating. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Hi Nick Cal-scale make what look like the right type 190-356 but they're out of stock at Walthers, I'd have thought caboose steps would be too narrow. The only other thing I could suggest is finding a scrap coach at a swap meet as a donor. Nick Thanks for that, Nick. They're shown as in stock at Caboose Hobbies - $11.40 or a set of 4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickBrad Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Holy thread revival Batman! I have acquired a couple of Rivarossi passenger cars with the intention of recreating the modified pullman that resided on the Alexander Railroad, (now owned by the New Hope Valley Railroad). I managed with a bit of difficulty, (and 1 broken tab,) to remove the glazing/roofing, only to be confronted by this; I have a feeling that this wasn't done at the factory and someone else decided to melt the interior in place. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to remove the interior intact? I would like to reuse it if I can. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Either drill out the melted points or use a burr bit in a rotary tool. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickBrad Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 I've got a feeling I will have to invest in a rotary tool as a quick pass with a drill just kept pushing off to the side. It's an unfortunate setback, but not a game stopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 I've got a feeling I will have to invest in a rotary tool as a quick pass with a drill just kept pushing off to the side. It's an unfortunate setback, but not a game stopper Use a scriber/nail/needle to mark a starting point, and then a small drill to make a locating divot for the larger drill. My preference would be to use a rotary tool (but then, I have a couple), but by using the technique above it is relatively easy to prevent a drill from wandering too far on plastic. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickBrad Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Thanks Adrian, i'll try that tomorrow As for the original build that spawned this thread, did you document any more of the build Nick, how did it turn out? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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