A New Start

[Gloucester Road]

Just caught up on this thread. Brilliant buildings love the interiors with the lights.

[C&WR]

Much Appreciated, Gloucester Road. I've had a lot of fun doing this and it's been interesting to put the builds on chronologically - as I tend to jump from job to job as time, materials and inspiration are available it's quite funny to realise some of these things took the best part of a year to come together!

[Adamphillip]

Love the layout, hope you're having fun with it

[C&WR]

Thanks, Adamphilip, it's provided a great deal of fun both operating and building. The Small Controller also finds it fun but perhaps because he's seven and perhaps because this is an age of video games and computers he sometimes cuts sessions short to go and do something else!

 

It's a joy to hear him when he gets stuck in, though, running the trains about, making platform announcements, and moving toy soldiers as passengers from platform to platform although as he yet lacks a sense of scale these might be 1/32nd. Best thing of all is how gently he treats everything, so I don't need to worry about damage.

Edited September 4, 2013 by C&WR

[C&WR]

Random Scratchbuild - A Sleeper-Built Buffer Stop

 

The Pt Way Dept had a thing about having one or more sleeper-built buffer stops on the layout. We had not long placed an order with a well-known Merseyside retailer so I didn't want to incur postage for a very small package and the local ModelZone was out of stock. I then remembered that I had a stack of scrap track which might do the trick.

 

First of all I built the basic shape from card, then started cutting the sleepers off the track and the chairs from the sleepers. The sleepers were then glued to the card former:

 

 

After some work the card was completely clad:

 

 

There was always going to be the issue of how to hide the holes where the chairs had sat. This was relatively easily done by putting a beam across the front and some strapping round the sides. I roughed up the beam to give a wood texture, and then used blobs of GS Hypo as bolt heads on the strapping. The card was painted with all sorts of mucky shades from a childhood paintbox:

 

 

I then gave the beam a coat of red & white enamel then a wash of thinned black paint. The strapping was painted in gunmetal, then weathered with rust enamel:

 

 

This was the first picture I took after going to Andy Y's talk. I think it shows a marked improvement, but Andy was kind enough to offer a couple more tips by PM and this was the next view, this time in daylight:

 

 

The inside was filled with used, dried tea to represent earth. I still need to cut a hole in the beam end to stop tension lock couplings getting bent and then will bed it in properly, with luck covering the holes from the chairs down the sides with static grass or something.

 

Overall I was quite pleased with this. It reresented a couple of hours work, thinking through how I was to build and finally my first attempt at weathering an item.

 

One last shot. The tea went white in places where I put a layer of varnish on:

 

 

Edit to add:

 

This is a longer version of a post made on acg_mr's thread.

 

Further edit to add:

 

Of the two wagons in the final post any guesses (without looking at the coupling) which was the fairly expensive Dapol model IIRC from a MRC raising funds, and which the Hornby one found in a bargain bin?

Edited September 4, 2013 by C&WR

[C&WR]

In Which I Have A Bash At Loco Detailing

 

For some time I have loved seeing other people's models of diesels with all the detailing on the buffer beams.  Where I never had any confidence, however, was to start cutting up my much-loved locomotives to try and emulate them.  As a youngster, despite at the time spending a lot of time and effort painting wargaming miniatures & toy soldiers to a pretty high standard (although I say it myself) I never even fitted my loco crews  as I was scared the work wouldn't be good enough.

 

I then purchased of a couple of Lima locos, 37251 The Northern Lights in Intercity colours and 47484 Isambard Kingdom Brunel in GWR 150 livery.  Ironically I had wanted to start a collection of BR Blue stuff to go with my HST and class 117 DMU and ended up without blue-with-yellow-ends stock.  Doing a bit of research I came across Craftsman kits, which I know are supposed to be a bit chunky but seemed a sensible price so I ordered them.

 

I still let "I dare not" wait upon "I will" like the cat in the adage & the stuff stayed in the modelling box, although I did start getting together  a stack of reference photos & lurked around the relevant pages here.  Finally a trip to the Fawley Hill Railway by kind invitation of one of the members acted as a spur to getting to work after a very pleasant exhibitor of O gauge 37s there talked me though his work.

 

Therefore, as a break from decorating the new 1:1 house, I started off:

 

 

Take one Lima class 37 and paint the buffers silver:

 

 

Then set about the buffer beams and nose only at just one end:

 

 

 

This was a big step!  It's by no means perfect, and I found that not only was my mini drill too big but that glue and locomotives are not a great mix and that Humbrol gloss yellow doesn't match Lima loco ends, but for a first stab I'm not too unhappy:

 

 

I held off on IKB as another project beckoned.  IKB will now have to wait as I've used all the grab-handle wire from both the 47 and 37 kits and another one I purchased...

[C&WR]

Peak Practising - The Fifth Royal Inniskilling Dragoon Guards

It's with some trepidation I post this as it's only my first ever proper go at modifying and detailing a locomotive. Somehow things went a little wrong part-way through, and perhaps I should have invested in a pin-vice earlier as will become evident. Still, this doesn't look as rough from even a short distance away, the camera is cruel, and at least I have learnt throughout the process.

I'd promised myself I wasn't going to buy any more locomotives, and that if I did I wasn't going to spend any more on detailing. Then, while searching for something else, I discovered the Class 45 Regiments series. Worse still I discovered that 45 143 rejoiced in the name "5th Royal Inniskilling Dragoon Guards" (5 INNIS DG for short). Having served in The Skins there was no way I couldn't have a bash at modelling this, especially as Fox Transfers do an etched nameplate.

So, first to gather some reference material. This was the photograph I used most, so thanks to the derbysulzers.com website:



I then found a suitable donor model on eBay. For £16 (£20 with post included) I reckoned I had a bit of a bargain:



Nothing personal to The Manchester Regiment, but you will be converted:



I still can't quite get used to this bit, but out came the razor saw & off came the buffer beams & couplings:



The name plates then arrived:



I think they look rather good. Just hoping I don't regret being a tightwad by opting for the assemble yourself version:



Here's where the first bit of compromise comes in. The tercentenary plates will not be appropriate for the locomotive with the headcode as is, but to be frank no one I know will notice.

I was still having a few qualms about cutting chunks off the body. Therefore I thought I'd start gently with the Craftsman buffer beam detail. First of all cleaned up & prmed for painting, the fronts of the buffers were tidied up later:



Then painted and assembled. Another case of the cruel camera here, they don't look this bad when not in close up:



Then in place with the speedo cable on:

Cleaning up the sides was relatively strightforward, and at this stage I had no idea of the horrors to come. I would remove the rest of the decals later to fit with my reference photo:



Following a tip somewhere on here (I think) I had a bash at reusing the existing glazing to flush-glaze the cab:



It came out with a bit of damage but still seemed to be usable. The scribing marks I made to help cutting out the new windows can be seen. However actually cutting these was a devil of a job. I managed two of the six necessary front windows, and even those weren't much good:



The old clear plastic was too frangible for my skills. Thak goodness for SE FInecast and what a pleasure dealign with them was - when funds become a bit more available I'll be getting the bits to do my fleet of Mk1s & Mk 2s.

The Craftsman blanking plates went in like a dream. SHortly after taking this pic I went off on my holidays, so there was a bit of a brak in work:



I also had to wait for some supplies of RailMatch paint. What went wrong after this stage I am not sure. However, the blanking plates for the steps on the sides just wouldn't sit correctly and whatever I did the sides were all lumpy. Attempts at filling were also a bit of a disaster, and it became evident that I needed a pin-vice as the holes I'd drilled for the cab hand rails were just too big, and when I got the wire in for them not drilled accurately enough.

To be continued...

Edited September 9, 2013 by C&WR

[Jaz]

Thanks, Al. It was actually your comment yesterday that I wasn't so bad at this that made me start the thread. Some friends from elsewhere had asked me to, but I didn't know if they were just being nice.

 

The aim is to have corners or sides that act as coherent sections, partly for photography, rather than it all running together. Saying that I did have the sea/stream at one end where the latter could conceivably flowed into the former!

 

Hope you like my solution to the gate problem. I could have just bought one, but with plenty of Evergreen, paint & a bit of time knocking that up was simple!

 

You sneaky sneaky man...............

It would appear I am the first of your friends from elsewhere to realise you got your thread up and running....

plus where did all the photographs come from!!!!!!!

You have hit the road running. Not that that surprises me, I always loved your thread elsewhere as you know.

Although you have your layout / workbench in your signature, you have not posted recently on any of our threads.....so I had no idea.

Lovely thread, workbench some cool work I have never seen before, and I have the inside knowledge on some of the great stuff to come   no spoilers!!!! 

 I promise.

Am really pleased to see you here full throttle, shall quickly go spread the news 

Are you going to Newark show???? 

 

Oh and as for Al (acg_mr), I suspect you two will get on like a house on fire.

Edited September 12, 2013 by Jaz

[silky_jack]

Hey Hey!  Good to see you are on here too!  Thanks for putting the posts up and hope all is well.

[C&WR]

Hello both.  It's nice to be here - I've been lurking for a while but had been a bit too intimidated to post anything but queries as I felt my skill level wasn't quite up to it.  Jaz suggested my own thread & it was Al's kind comment which made me go for it.

 

All very well, although rhythms of work mean less time to post in a big way.  I'm also devoid of any free time at home as The Long Haired Controller is back to work in the evenings, while The Small Controller has started a new School where his homework (now to be known as Prep as it always was to me) has become really quite serious, so I get home, supervise Prep, cook dinner, clear kitchen, do laundry, get TSC in bed & then get on with other work on the 1:1 house or stuff from the Office.  My time is not my own from about 07:00 to 22:00 daily!

 

I did manage the decalling of The Skins at 08:00 on Sunday before going out to coach TSC's U8 Rugby team, and have now got a couple of layers of protective varnish over them.  It may be the light last night, but it seems to be that the lumpiness of the sides is starting to be smoothed out.  Fingers crossed!  I may try to squeeze in getting the flush glazing in this evening.

 

I'm afraid to say, Jaz, that what you see here has pretty much all been shown in the other place & there is little else to come from there.  I referenced the Beach & Play Area above so if there are any new pictures they are ones which disappeared from my other thread elsewhere when Webshots (my original host) went subscription only & I lost the lot.  That was quite frustrating as as far as I can tell all the pictures of the build of my mini pub were there so are now lost.

 

Perhaps what has caused confusion as well is that this thread has been thematic, showing how each element of Wallington-Super-Mare, Wallington Sands and Wallington Sidings (the village to be built is as yet unnamed) developed over the 19 months or so I had regular access to it.  As you know from elsewhere and my descriptions above I did tend to jump from job to job as I thought through solutions, gained new skills, came across new products and so on.

 

It is highly unlikely I will be at the Newark 2014 show, I am afraid.  I am already aware of two commitments that weekend even at this range!  A pity, I worked in Nottingham for several years in the mid-2000s, playing for a local Rugby Club, so have fond memories of the area.  I once arranged an event at Belvoir Castle and as it ended the Red Arrows coincidentally went over on their way back to Scampton after a display.  There are some who were present still convinced I had organised the flypast too...

[C&WR]

Experiments with Hand-Scribed Brickwork

 

I was inspired by a couple of threads on here & elsewhere to have a pop at hand scribing and painting some brickwork.  This was largely as an exercise in seeing what was possible, as I am a big fan of a certain designer's texture papers.

 

First bash was done one quiet lunchtime in the office, using a marlinspike on a penkinfe and a plastic (mostly) straight edge (phone camera pic so not great):

 

 

I then got home and dug out the trusty childhood paintbox & gave it a bit of a wash.  Amazing what can be found in the loft & pressed back into service, especially as the dark and earthy tones needed for what I'm up to today are not what I used as a nipper:

 

 

Finally a snap of how it looked after it had dried a little and in better light.  I quite liked this, especially getting mortar course colours in & also the variety of brick tones possible:

 

 

Still, quite a lot of work for approximately 25x8 scale feet. I'll be keeping this technique for something like a cattle dock or garden wall rather than a 4mm scale Battersea Power Station.

 

Subsequently I had another pop with a decent straight edge and a tool which has now been liberated from the kitchen and added to the modelling box.  Strangely enough I don't think this was as good an effort as the first with the makeshift tools:

 

 

However I when I went to paint it disaster struck.  I gave it a nice wash of the mortar-coloured watercolour:

 

 

When this had dried the tea packet I had been using had distorted and the fibres come out.  The watercolour had been just too wet.  Having consulted with an Art Master of my acquaintance I discovered that "watercolour" and "watercolour gouache" were not excatly the same thing, and it was the latter I needed...

 

I have not given up on the experiment.  While watercolour gouache is sold locally in big mixed packs at vast expense I have found a friendly local dealer who seems happy to break a pack up.  when cashflow is a bit better I'll give it another lash!

 

(Apologies for anyone who has seen this before, but I am trying to collate my stuff by theme in one place.)

[C&WR]

Putting the Skin on The Skins

 

I was going to hold off on this post until I had achieved a bit more, but thought I'd give an update after all.  This is the point at which I thought I might as well just sack it and while the cost of donor loco, detailing bits & paints was still under the £50 mark I had perhaps wasted the cash.

 

As mentioned above the blanking plates on the steps on the sides had glued into place nicely, but seemed to exude some kind of unpleasant residue which made the surface all uneven.  My attempts to get rid of this made the matter worse as well.  In addition I had used too large a drill bit for some of the holes, I couldn't seem to bend the wire for the handrail replacements neatly and finally cannot afford an airbrush and wasn't able to get the paint on nice and smoothly.

 

So, on with the pictures.  A first view of the replacement lamp irons & handrails on the nose of 5 INNIS DG with a handy holder:

 

 

All the Craftsman details added.  I opted not to remove the cantrails as I was simply not confident enough to get them off and get a good enough layer of blue paint back on, although that is my fault not that of the RailMatch stuff which is superb:

 

 

Close up to show nose & bufferbeam.  The white loop is a replacement for the tension lock coupling and will be painted black over the primer.  I was too tight to buy brass wire so this is from a paerclip, a quick test run shows it works pretty well:

 

 

Back to the reference photo to get some generic transfers on:

 

 

Then to get the actual running numbers on (this at 08:00 on a Sunday after bed at 03:00):

 

 

There was another minor disaster here as the masking tape I was using to make a straight line to align the numbers trapped some water.  When I removed the tape the water was released in a mini deluge which washed the number hither & yon!

 

Finally got it all sorted out & gave the grilles a wash of thinned black enamel for depth:

 

 

Last but not least I finished off the bogie detail.  There is reference information that shows the speedo cable on 45 143 was at one point and similarly the axle end covers (or whatever they are called) were once yellow.  However perhaps not all at the same time one the locomotive when it had a split headcode box, but hey, I like the look:

 

 

Find out what happened in the next enthralling installment

[Jaz]

Please tell me you still have the pictures (any pictures) from the seaside area????

 

N.B. Here on RMweb you can upload your pictures to the Gallery, and then refer to them, giving you some backup and stability.

 

Seaside memories, not lost!!???

 

edit: I went and checked the other place, they are still there....phewww.....as I sped through the posts I had a big smile on my face....so many good memories.....will so look forward to more of the same.

 

The 'after the move' sounds busy, still it all sounds good. The family all seem to be ok so that's good.And your here so that is good. Good good good.........Shall come and annoy you again before long ;p

Edited September 12, 2013 by Jaz

[C&WR]

Fear not, Jaz, what I lost was a few photos from around August 2012 when I had some phone bother.  Sadly Webshots did not offer the option of retrieving anything when it asked for subs to be paid!

 

Currently most phone pictures are backed up to Picasa & a laptop, while all the stuff from my DSLR is on an offboard hard drive, a PC and the original memory cards.  I'm not losing stuff again.

 

Link to beach & play area now in my signature block...

[Jaz]

bliss........

As I said to you before, it is the little things that make a layout, and as you whizz around the tracks and see those touches of our childhood, they always make me smile. And as you know you I have sourced some nice Noch donkeys which with some little saddles and reins and riders, a sunhat, a windbreak, and a sandcastle.......would all look the business. 

Kal wants me to extend our cove which as it is in the Heartbeat 1960s era there is plenty of stuff to add to ours, I think a little rock pool and fishing nets, a lilo on the waves, some fishermen on the harbour walls, if you fancy doing any of these do feel free. As I mentioned before I think donkeys would look really at home on your layout.

Workbench is a great idea too, so you can do stuff, then then when you have the time go and add the new stuff.

And although you sound far too busy I meant Newark 2013 21/22 September.

[RSLR]

Hi,

Super layout! It's good to see the Craftsman conversions and detailing going on (I was begining to think I was the only one).
The SE Finecast flush glazing is really good, I'm sure you will approve. They're allot neater and easier than cutting out each window by hand.

It's all looking good so far  

Cheers, Reece

[C&WR]

Jaz- thanks again. Sadly I know I am definitely booked that weekend too! Once the Rugby season starts long-distance trips stop as well. It's also the weekend before a key deadline at work so no chance of getting back to old stamping grounds

Reece- Thank you too. I had seen people on here complaining that the Craftsman kits were waaay too clunky, but they are great for my needs. I had a sneaky go at bunging one set of windows in 5 INNIS DG & they were great. I think all my old Hornby & Lima Mk1s & Mk2s may get the treatment, they will still come out at under £10 a pop even with the glazing & transfers...

Edited September 12, 2013 by C&WR

[Alister_G]

Hi mate,

 

Not posted on here for a bit, although I've been popping in looking at what you've been doing.

 

You're a braver man than me, I haven't yet dared start hacking at Locos

 

Mind you, there's not much scope for many Diseasels in my time period, although I do have a nice green class 45 for Manchester - London expresses.

 

Keep up the good work,

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

[C&WR]

Cheers, Al.  Afraid I wouldn't even try any work on my steam locos, but these diesels were relatively cheap and the kits really make all the difference.

 

I'm afraid I had a bit of a disaster tonight.  Thought I would put in some of the flush glazing on 5 INNIS DG & happily set to work, test fitting all the pieces.  It was then time to feed The Small Controller, before collecting The Long Haired Controller who had finished her nannying for the evening.

 

I got home to find that superglue and SE Finecast glazing do not mix.  The windows (thank goodness I had only done the windscreens at one end) had crazed over completely and are now opaque.  There's going to be a bit of a delay before I can order replacements as I'm a bit broke.  Upside is I have an excuse to order the glazing for my Mk1s & Mk2s which I had mainly bought for 5 INNIS DG to pull...

[RSLR]

Cheers, Al.  Afraid I wouldn't even try any work on my steam locos, but these diesels were relatively cheap and the kits really make all the difference.

 

I'm afraid I had a bit of a disaster tonight.  Thought I would put in some of the flush glazing on 5 INNIS DG & happily set to work, test fitting all the pieces.  It was then time to feed The Small Controller, before collecting The Long Haired Controller who had finished her nannying for the evening.

 

I got home to find that superglue and SE Finecast glazing do not mix.  The windows (thank goodness I had only done the windscreens at one end) had crazed over completely and are now opaque.  There's going to be a bit of a delay before I can order replacements as I'm a bit broke.  Upside is I have an excuse to order the glazing for my Mk1s & Mk2s which I had mainly bought for 5 INNIS DG to pull...

Hi,

 

For the SE Flushglaze to stick in I use Delux Materials Glue 'n' Glaze which is nice and tacky and dries completely crystal clear, it also gives a strong bond. But you could use normal PVA which works reasonably well. I tend not to use a solvent glue or Super glue because as you've discovered it does nasty things to the windows.

All is not lost for the ones you've already stuck in though, you can give them a brush with Humbrol Clear which should restore them to a more 'clear' state.

 

Hope that helps, sorry I didn't warn you earlier about using solvents/superglue on windows.

 

Cheers, Reece

[C&WR]

Thanks, Reece.  I think it was a case of RTFM which did say use impact adhesive.  As The Small Controller is on School sleep patterns again after the holidays we were woken at 07:00.  The Long Haired Controller & I managed a bit of a lie in but eventually his visits to demand breakfast meant I have got up as I need to go to the office. Blasted audit time of year!

 

I've had a quick bash at the other end of the locomotive using GS Hypo cement (thanks to Geoff Taylor of Gresley Beat renown for that tip) and the results are slightly better in terms of the glue.  Sadly the glazing plastic is so fragile that it can bend, leaving white lines where it has done so.

 

Ho-hum, it's my fault not the kit's!  I'll do a better job of filing down the inside of the window frames when I buy a replacement set.  May attend to soldering the lights in the window etches of my goods shed kit this weekend instead, if I get the time! 

[Jaz]

Sometimes a mistake, allows you to look at something in such detail, that it seriously improves your game in the future. Think of it as positive Karma. How likely are you to make such a mistake again? Have you now learned a superior way? Glaze and Glue can also fill in small windows all by itself. 

I myself avoid super glue, after sticking two items together the wrong way, luckily my heated swearing words drew the attention of Kal who quickly sent me off for nail varnish remover and cotton bud and he rescued the work. He did say that it was luckiy I had drawn his attention  (how could it avoid it I was rashing fashing with gusto) because once it had cured it would not be so easy.

I  believe a good modeller has some good undo liquids. T-cut for paint mistakes etc. Because mistakes will occur.

[C&WR]

Thanks Jaz.  I looked up Glaze n Glue & when I saw it could make windows itself ordered a bottle!  The frustration is that time is tight (I'm off to work shortly) so this setback means I probably won't achieve anything else on this until October.

 

By the way thanks for the tip about the Humbrol Clear, Reece.  Sadly I had cut out & binned the bits before I saw it.

 

Anyway, I had promised myself I would only post complete build threads, but just for one here's The Skins last night while I was on the case:

 

 

I'm really pleased that, in the right light, the varnish coats have hidden the imperfections in the bodywork except from close up!

Edited September 14, 2013 by C&WR

[jcredfer]

I have a small pot of Zap Superglue remover. It will work anytime after the glue has set.

 

It doesn't seem as aggressive as Nail Varnish Remover, which I have also used - but - it takes longer, so maybe there is the payoff. It may be safer on more sensitive items.

 

I managed to clean Superglue from a press button switch on a battery charger with it, eventually.

 

 

J

[C&WR]

Random Scratchbuild - The Best Pub In The World

 

Right, I despair of getting any real work done today as I keep getting disturbed. Therefore a quick teatime update with some pictures I retrieved of a scratchbuild of one of my favourite places, The Bell Inn at Aldworth in Berkshire.

 

I made this part way through the Scalescenes signal box build, having picked up some techniques from these kits, I also think I had got hold of John Ahern's buildings book by this stage. The only purchased items here are the card, the texture papers, the lichen and flock, and some chimney pots from Langley Castings.

 

Unlike the other builds which took an age I came home from an afternoon at the pub, started drawing out some rough outlines on brick paper then realised it was a goer & started sticking it together. The bulk of this was completed that afternoon & the following day.

 

First a view of what I was to build:

 

 

A view round the back:

 

 

The basic wall structure put together:

 

 

Slightly ropey picture with the roof on:

 

 

Adding the back extension. I chose not to model some bits from post war:

 

 

Developing the back. Because I wasn't doing the newer extensions some of the doors & windows are a bit of a guess. Doors were adapted from Scalescenes ones and windows made up on the PC with MS Word:

 

 

Because I hadn't made a great job of the way the roof sat round the chimneys I added some lead flashing (made from tinfoil & brushed with Humbrol Gunmetal) which isn't actually there on the real thing:

 

 

The porch is a key feature of the real Bell and a pleasant place to sit, even when my jalopy is parked outside:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The porch roof supports were carefully cut from card & coloured with HB pencil:

 

 

A key feature of the place is the gents', open to the sky & known as "The Planetarium" to locals. Happily I found some blue plastic to represent the splashback:

 

 

Finally complete, less a bit of weathering:

 

 

The finished article. I feel I have messed up the roof a bit with the flock, but this was only supposed to be a mock up for a proper model:

 

 

|I am still to put the lantern in the porch and the pub sign on the front. I was quite pleased with this for my first real scratchbuild since I used to make things for wargaming as a youth, though!

Edited September 23, 2013 by C&WR