Colin parks Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 .. no pressure there then! Great stuff as ever Colin! Best wishes, Hopefully the modelling will be better than my grammar! Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) The sides are now well under way, with the first of the TSO sides being complete and others are at various stages of completion on the production line. A strip of 20 thou. sheet, pre-curved and drilled with 0.6mm holes pitched at 10mm along its centreline is added to the lower art of each side, followed be infill pieces vertically to form recesses fro the glazing. The drop light layers go in next. These have been trimmed to size and fitted in the doors. Howard's scribing jig makes the forming of the top light inner frame consistent and it lines up with the door drop light perfectly. This finished side is now 40 thou. thick, with the addition of 10 thou. strips top and bottom, plus further 10 thou. vertical infills between compartments. Colin Edited October 29, 2013 by Colin parks 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Satisfying....now get to that darkened room. I bet you are happy tonight. The sides are now well under way, with the first of the TSO sides being complete and others are at various stages of completion on the production line. A strip of 20 thou. sheet, pre-curved and drilled with 0.6mm holes pitched at 10mm along its centreline is added to the lower art of each side, followed be infill pieces vertically to form recesses fro the glazing. The drop light layers go in next. These have been trimmed to size and fitted in the doors. IMG_7156.JPG IMG_7158.JPG Howard's scribing jig makes the forming of the top light inner frame consistent and it lines up with the door drop light perfectly. IMG_7159.JPG This finished side is now 40 thou. thick, with the addition of 10 thou. strips top and bottom, plus further 10 thou. vertical infills between compartments. IMG_7160.JPG Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAB Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Colin, Still not convinced by the grammar, but the modelling remains excellent - well done!. Just one query - it was discussed before that the sides overhang the top flange of the solebar. Presumably therefore, the top level of the floor is lowered to allow the side to sit on top whilst appearing to cover the solebar? Best wishes, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Colin, Still not convinced by the grammar, but the modelling remains excellent - well done!. Just one query - it was discussed before that the sides overhang the top flange of the solebar. Presumably therefore, the top level of the floor is lowered to allow the side to sit on top whilst appearing to cover the solebar? Best wishes, Hi Howard, Re. the body overhanging the solebar on 4 SUBs, I shall have to confess that it isn't the case. Having studied dasatcopthorne's B&W photos posted earlier in the topic more closely, I can see that the top flange of the solebar is visible - just! The next aspect of the work to ponder over is the fitting of those repair gussets along the bottom edges of the sides, which were 4" wide and presumably made of something like 1/8th steel sheet. I am thinking of using strips of cigarette paper for this job. The only question really is whether to fit them to the whole unit or have them slightly random. All the best, Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Further to the previous post, the link below shows a photo of the motor coaches of 4377 as a Sandite unit (re-built with EPB-type ends etc.. It would make a tasty project along with that converted Augmentation trailer coach next to the 08. The photo does show that the plating of the bottom edges of the motor coaches at least was extensive. http://www.flickr.com/photos/sparrowhawk7/8643241468/in/photolist-eaLSyC-dxjGAY/lightbox/ Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted October 29, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 29, 2013 I would check to see what the 'average' unit had repair panel wise, and then fit accordingly. How will you glue the fag paper to the sides, and won't they produce a funny texture? Lovely work as always... Andy G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Hi Colin. Probably too thick for what you need, but in depth, my maths says they would need to be @ .75mm? The Evergreen strip range may have something of use? Smashing work so far BTW. Cheers. Sean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAB Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Probably too thick for what you need, but in depth, my maths says they would need to be @ .75mm? The Evergreen strip range may have something of use? Are you sure Sean? I make 4" to be 1.33mm and 1/8" to be 1.67 thou. Radical thought - what about masking the side down to the edge of the repair strip with fine-line masking tape (the plastic stuff) and putting a couple of extra coats of primer where the strips need to be? Other wise it might be 5thou well rubbed back. Will be interested to see a trial of the Rizla idea though! Edit:- spelinng worgn agina Best wishes, Edited October 29, 2013 by HAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Uff! Me and my maths eh HAB, you are of course right, although just to make me less thick, I should point out that the correct measurement is 1.33333333333333333333333mm ;o) Cheers. Sean. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) You need to put new batteries in your abacus, Sean! Edited October 29, 2013 by SRman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Abacus? That's far too technical for me SRman! ;o) Cheers. Sean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Wow! I thought I had it rough with trying to make coal tubs from plastikard! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Hi Howard, Re. the body overhanging the solebar on 4 SUBs, I shall have to confess that it isn't the case. Having studied dasatcopthorne's B&W photos posted earlier in the topic more closely, I can see that the top flange of the solebar is visible - Colin Hi Colin Are you sure about this overhang? Have a look at picture one post #109. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAB Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Are you sure about this overhang? Have a look at picture one post #109. Hi Dave, I think Colin is right here - although the top flange cannot be seen, my logic is this:- 1. the bottom of the bodyside is level with the bottom of the body end 2. the bottom of the end sits on top of the headstock 3. the top face of the headstock is level with the top face of the solebar ergo - the bottom of the body sits on the top face of the solebar. I think the reason that the flange is never visible is because these all-tin bodies are a lot wider than than the frames that they sit on - thus the outer face of the body is three inched outside of the solebar. (well, that is only my current thinking!) BTW, I think this" logic" would not be true for LH stock which might well be an altogether different kettle of fish. Best wishes, Edited October 31, 2013 by HAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptic Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Hmmm...... Maybe trying to split hairs on this one,...but, I'm going with Dave. Das's pic 1 on post # 108 shows the cut-away beneath the Driver's door, showing the floor and the top edge of the Sole-bar channel. Given that the camera level is slightly above in-line, the adjacent body panel bottoms are not giving the impression that they are comparable / in line with the top of the Sole-bar. Nor, is the Headstock return, top flange visible, even from the camera's standpoint. Within the same post, pics 2, 3 & 6 show wiring / pipework within the S/bar's recess. This is not the upper flange of the channel. Dave's photos, of the inner ends, in post #109, nos. 9,10,11 & 12, show the centre buffers and rubbing plates cutting into the base of the end panels, similar to the outer ends. Body side panels appear to be another notch lower..... ....There again, given my eyesight, what's an inch or so, between friends ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Well, this 4 SUB side/solebar issue is a right can of worms! I am re-posting the photo by Ceptic (hope that is OK Frank!) which got me thinking about this slight 'overhang' in the first place. The photo shows the cab front to buffers cut-away as one would expect, but if you look closely the side's bottom edge appears to be a tad (excuse the in-exactitude) lower than that of the cab. Having said all this, it is only a matter of about 0.3mm, so I doubt the model will be that accurate anyway! Colin Edited November 1, 2013 by Colin parks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) So it may be a tiny fraction out ... what's a 'tad' between friends?? Whether or not it is absolutely accurate, Colin, your work is superb and admired by a good many of us here. Edited November 1, 2013 by SRman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Progress has been slow but steady again this week. The sides are nearly all laminated, but as things progress, the number of pieces to add or make for the sides seem to be increasing: 80 droplights fitted; each side has about 26 parts for lamination = 208 parts; each door will need two bangs, two handles and three hinges = approx. 560 parts (including the drivers' ones); glazing for each window = 264 pieces - and I don't even want to think about what is going up on the roofs yet! The side pictured has now attained its full thickness of 40 thou. except for the glazing recesses and around the doors. The row of holes in the final layer of 10 thou. sheet seemed wise to add to allow the solvent to vent off fully. I really don't want any vapours fighting their way out through the front face of the side. Unlike the Tin HAL, the lower part of the side is laminated with just two strips. Colin 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaloak Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 (edited) Well, this 4 SUB side/solebar issue is a right can of worms! I am re-posting the photo by Ceptic (hope that is OK Frank!) which got me thinking about this slight 'overhang' in the first place. The photo shows the cab front to buffers cut-away as one would expect, but if you look closely the side's bottom edge appears to be a tad (excuse the in-exactitude) lower than that of the cab. post-7009-0-39478300-1351335959_thumb.jpg Having said all this, it is only a matter of about 0.3mm, so I doubt the model will be that accurate anyway! Colin Is it the side that is overhanging the solebar or is it just the repair panel that has been added which is deeper than the side to which it has been added? Anyway it looks more like a smidgen to me, its much more than a tad! Edited November 2, 2013 by royaloak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Is it the side that is overhanging the solebar or is it just the repair panel that has been added which is deeper than the side to which it has been added? Anyway it looks more like a smidgen to me, its much more than a tad! Hmm. A smidgen is it royaloak? How many tads in a smidgen and how many smidgens are there in a bit?! Seriously, I think it is such a small amount of overhang that just the way the side curves in at the bottom will in effect make the side overhang slightly (or a smidgen). All the best, Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigermoth Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 But would the overhang be the same for all units ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaloak Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Fair do's Colin, it is just the standard you turn your units out is breathtaking and I didnt want you to be a quarter of a millimetre out! Me on the other hand, I would be happy to be a quarter of a metre out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptic Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Another view, showing but two repair strips in line with the bottom edge of the body panels. Beats me what those two Yellow fangs / whiskers are, tho' ?. (They're not present on the other end) All the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Another view, showing but two repair strips in line with the bottom edge of the body panels. ScannedImage-34.jpg Beats me what those two Yellow fangs / whiskers are, tho' ?. (They're not present on the other end) All the best. Hi Frank, The cab front 's bottom edge is anything but straight: a cut out for the coupling hook followed by a cut-away to avoid the buffer casting, then down over the headstock to not quite level with the side. I haven't yet profiled the cab fronts of the model as it is something best done after the bodies are assembled. I do know what those yellow 'fangs' are. They are the front faces of the support (body restraining?) brackets under the cab which are bolted to the headstock. There would be two brackets on the other motor coach headstock of 4732, but not painted yellow, which is why they do not appear to be present. Again, these brackets will be fitted to the model's headstocks once the bodies are assembled, as they must line up with the cab fronts. The devil being in the detail once again. All the best, Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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