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scratchbuilding 7mm class 153


Jack00

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Hi all

I have been working on plans to build a class 153 DMU in 7mm scale.

I drew the plans and took measurmants from the prototype

So far i have built 1 cab end and 1 body side. I also looked at a Hornby 4mm version for window positioning.

-some items will be purchased from peter clark models such as bogie frames, headlights, horns, seats etc.

I'm currently looking for an appropriate chassis material, something rigid. Perhaps metal or even wood.

 

The 153 will be motorised.

I have posted this topic in the 7mm section too.

 

post-13209-0-86218800-1378926490_thumb.jpg

 

I'll post up pictures of the prototype but for now its just the cab and plough for end No:1

 

Cheers

Jack

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Simon,

I just did it from scratch...lots of prototype pictures and measurmants, also the 4mm scale Hornby version had a lot to do with the drawings...just as i was unsure with the height on the drivers windows/corridore connectors

 

I reckon 2nd gen are a little easier in terms of cab design thanks to the "slice of toast" technique.

No smooth curves to worry about on the body side to cab fixings.

 

Hope that makes sence.

All the best

Jack

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post-13209-0-30754300-1378930782_thumb.jpg

 

post-13209-0-79252000-1378930804_thumb.jpg

 

Some earlier pictures of progress.

Once primed i think the detail will stand out more. The rest of the body can be constructed and primed too.

A very cheap way of building a DMU especially in this scale.

So far i've used 1 &1/2 of A4 plasticard...about £2.25 worth. The most expensive part is the gears and motors.

 

Jack

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Did you draw the drawing from scratch or did you find some?  I wanted to draw a 2nd generation DMU but always struggled to find any original drawings.

 

I find a polite letter to the manufacturer does the trick.  Just make sure you explain that the drawings are for personal use only and mark the letter for the attention of the MD using his name if possible.  This can be obtained from various publications such as "The Modern Railway 2013" and often the company website.  It is also an idea to give your telephone number as I was once rung up by the MD's secretary to check that I was who I said I was, being asked some quite intelligent questions about my model railway activities.  You will have to be patient as this will be a very low priority and will be routed via the legal department but they will arrive eventually.  I have waited from three to eighteen months.

 

In this way I have obtained drawings for classes 150/2, 153, 170/2 and 156

 

Regards

 

Chris Turnbull 

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post-13209-0-98276300-1379071519_thumb.jpg

 

A better picture in more natural light.

No1end of the 153. The roof is going to be fun to build with the exhaust outlet and roof mounted pods.

The rivets are a challenge to replicate but with care, a cumpas can be used to make dents, or a nail head, obviously not punching the holes all the way through.

Although, im not inclined to count them all!!

 

Also holes will be drilled through the light clusters to enable working lights, 2tail, 2spot/1marker at each end.(before facelifts were given to 2nd Gen DMU's)

It would also be good to DCC sound the unit. Lots of free space for a speaker.

 

Cheers

Jack

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  • 4 months later...
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Hello Jack,

   Please see below my efforts at scratch-building a 153 in 7mm.

 

The ends are modified from Peter Clark 156 fronts. Lots of filing and filler!

 

post-8492-0-97708200-1391184140_thumb.jpg

To the left, the modified 153 cab. To the right, the original 156 moulding.

 

post-8492-0-76392900-1391184149_thumb.jpg

Note the LED light clusters. Lenses fit over the LEDs which were turned down in size in a drill in order to fit. Plenty of cleaning up to do yet, but you get the idea.

 

Still plenty to do yet!

 

Best Regards,

    Howard

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Note the LED light clusters. Lenses fit over the LEDs which were turned down in size in a drill in order to fit. Plenty of cleaning up to do yet, but you get the idea.

 

Still plenty to do yet!

 

Best Regards,

    Howard

 

Hi Howard,

 

The light lenses look great. What material did you use for the actual lens?

 

Cheers

 

Tom

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Hi Howard,

 

The light lenses look great. What material did you use for the actual lens?

 

Cheers

 

Tom

 

Hello Tom,

    You can get LED lenses, but they are too big to fit and so need 1mm removing (.5 either side). Rapid electronics (with a bulk order to make it worthwhile) is where I sourced mine. They do look a little better all cleaned up now.

Howard

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