Golden Arrow Stanier Mogul Kit

[malcolmy]

Hi chaps,

 

I've made a start on my Golden Arrow Stanier Mogul kit, and I wanted to share progress with you.

 

I modified the chassis according to the instructions. It really is surprising how this is really a mogul chassis, with the tank loco trailing truck just stuck on the back. I wonder if Hornby planned to use this chassis elsewhere? I found that the slidebar brackets needed a little extra fettling to allow the reversing link extension to fit when the cylinders sit horizontally. I also added some plasticard packing to make the cylinder bracket sit securely against the DCC socket support.

 

I purchased a Comet Models Stanier 8F detailing kit to provide most of the additional parts - buffers, coupling hook, ejector pipework, sandboxes (though they're not quite the correct pattern), lubricators, smokebox door handle, rear steps and drag beam unit, reinforcement rings, safety valves. I managed to find a turned brass whistle in my bit box which will suffice.

 

I have bought Fowler and Stanier tenders (off eBay) so that I can run my LMS 2968 in lined LMS livery with either tender as it has run in preservation on the SVR and mainline.

 

 

[Unknown Warrior]

Thanks Malcolm. It is looking good. I will follow progress with interest as it is a loco I want to mudel (as preserved)

[OFFTHE RAILS]

From the original post : I modified the chassis according to the instructions.

 

Which chassis ? Please let us know.

Ian

[malcolmy]

Hi Ian,

 

This kit is designed to fit a modified Hornby Fowler 2-6-4T chassis. Luckily (for me)up to date versions are DCC ready.

 

It means I have a spare Fowler 2-6-4T loco body to put on eBay!

[Unknown Warrior]

Looking into the possibility of using the Comet Fowler/Stanier chassis instead and fit the right size wheels. The Fowler wheels were 5'9" whereas the mogul was 5'6". Comet also do a Fowler Tender.

[coachmann]

There was some discussion on this Stanier 2-6-0 body in the old RMweb3 but it never really went anywhere. In fact I sold off my spare Fowler 2-6-4T. So I am really interested to see how this project develops. The body certainly looks very good. How many resin parts are there to it?

 

An interesting thing about the real engines is they had a shriek whistle aka Midland and not the Stanier hooter.

 

Larry G.

[malcolmy]

The kit comprises:

 

1) The main body moulding

2) Backhead detail moulding, attached to

3) Rear steps, drag box moulding

4) Reversing rod moulding, attached to

5) Front chassis fixing plate

6) Instructions (obviously!)

 

I chose to use the Comet Models steps and drag box assembly in etched brass, rather than the resin version in the kit. My particular example seemed to have alot of flash obscuring the detail.

 

As yet I haven't finalised how to attach the loco body to the chassis - it's a tight enough fit just pushed on at the moment anyway. So I may not use the fixing plate/bracket.

[coachmann]

Thanks for that. Any chance of a picture taken at ground level to show how the body & chassis are looking together?

 

LG

[bike2steam]

There was some discussion on this Stanier 2-6-0 body in the old RMweb3 but it never really went anywhere. In fact I sold off my spare Fowler 2-6-4T. So I am really interested to see how this project develops. The body certainly looks very good. How many resin parts are there to it?

 

An interesting thing about the real engines is they had a shriek whistle aka Midland and not the Stanier hooter.

 

Larry G.

 

Sorry 'coach' but the last ten had Stanier hooter.

I built 2 of the K's kit version both with altered Comet Stanier/Fowler 2-6-4T chassis, one with Gibson wheels, one with Markits, now I have to do the same for my Nu-Cast version, as the old X-04 is nearing the end of it's days. But I must get one of those resin bodies to compare.

[coachmann]

Sorry 'coach' but the last ten had Stanier hooter.

The ones I heard whistling had the MR whistle so it just goes to show that one has to read these things before knowing there were some with Stanier hooter. Written info was sparse in steam days.

 

The Stanier 2-6-0's hardly got a second glance in the North West as they were overshadowed by the 'Crab' and 'Black Five', yet they make attractive models.

 

After posting this I noticed the word hooter had been crossed out as if it was a non PC word. Can't think how I mis-spelt it seeing as 'hooter' has now been accepted.....

[malcolmy]

Hi,

 

I've added a few more detailing bits to the front end now:

 

1) Vac pipe - from the Comet Models detailing kit

2) Handrails on the footplate - just brass wire - probably too thick!

3) Front Plate - Comet Models kit. It wasn't until I studied the photos of the prototype more carefully that I relaised I needed this bit. I had to shorten it from the 8F version to fit

4) Lamp irons - I made these from brass GWR spear topped fencing poles - yes I know

5) Re-inforcement rings - Comet Models kit

 

 

I need to take a picture with more light on the chassis! Putting the tender behind (where else) shows that the cab steps are probably a little high. I think I need to add some packing to lower the whole dragbox/step assemby.

 

I found that I hadn't got any suitably thin handrail wire to fit the knobs supplied in the Comet kit. Neither had Tennants when I went on Saturday either!

[malcolmy]

...and before anyone asks - no my track-laying isn't really that bad!

[artisan100]

Hi Malcolm,

 

That's coming on nicely and beginning to look good. A handsome engine.

 

As I'm sure you know, the wire you need for the handrails is 0.45mm diameter. You can use straight hard brass wire if you're going to paint it, but it's also possible to get 0.45mm nickel silver wire, which will look more like steel if you want to leave it unpainted.

 

Geoff

[bike2steam]

but it's also possible to get 0.45mm nickel silver wire, which will look more like steel if you want to leave it unpainted.

Geoff

 

I use piano wire, looks even better.

[malcolmy]

I have now acquired some .45mm wire for the handrails. I had a go at them last night but have a problem, and I'm not sure how to resolve it...

 

The casting has obvious locations marked to drill for the handrail knobs, which is what I did. I drilled the holes basically perpendicular to the boiler curvature. Unfortunately when I insert handrail knobs the the wire, the handrail is obviously not parallel to the running plate which it should be. Even if I use the same holes, and try and make the knobs horizontal, the handrail is still not level. It rises up towards the smokebox. The knobs fitted to the firebox seem OK.

 

So I guess I can fill the existing holes with epoxy?

 

How can I get the holes for the handrails in the right place now? The handrails should be perpendicular to the boiler curvature - not just horizontal. If they were horizontal then I guess there must be some useful tool (which I don't have) to scribe a level line in the boiler.

 

Any help greatly appreciated please.

[jwealleans]

Fill the holes in. Then either use a compass to draw a new line using the running plate to guide you or attach a pencil to something the right height next to the loco and move it backwards and forwards to produce a line.

 

Of course, if your line is level but still goes towards/away from the running plate you've got another problem...

 

This is the sort of thing you're trying to emulate, if that makes things clearer.

[malcolmy]

Yes thank you I'll give it a go. Now that you mention it, I have one of those clamp stands with a magifier and a couple of croc clips on. I should be able to make use of that somehow.

[malcolmy]

Now I feel as if I'm in the two steps forward - one step back stage!

 

I have removed the steps because they were too high. But they don't fit over the rear part of the chassis at the height I think they need to be. So that calls for some surgery to either the chassis or the dragbox/step assembly. Unfortunately I haven't yet located any photos of the cab, so I am guessing how it should all fit together. Any ideas greatly appreciated. I still have the Comet Models Stanier 8F cab floor and fall plate that I could make use of.

 

I have filled in all the incorrectly positioned handrail knob holes. Not quite worked up the courage to mark out and drill new ones yet though! (or had the time!)

 

The rear chassis section has now been filed so that it will accept either of the two tenders, at what looks to be an acceptable spacing. I still want to add pickups to the tenders and run wires (with micro connectors) between the tender(s) and the DCC socket board.

 

 

 

 

[coachmann]

I have taken the liberty of lightening one of your pictures so I could see how things look below the footplate. Looking fine. I fancy one of these.

[malcolmy]

I have now done some more electrical/chassis work. I have put extra pickups on both tenders. These are connected via a 2-way micro-connector to the loco pickup wires, that go to the DCC connection PCB above the cylinder block. I have tested it on DC, but I also want to test on DCC. I shall use a TCS DP2X-UK chip as that is a direct plug in, replacing the DC 'blanking' plug.

 

Unfortunately my dad is ill in hospital, so I've agreed with Chris that he will complete the model for me, from this point on. I was always going to pass it over for finishing anyway.

 

I have been struggling for months with the new 'lead free' solder. My friend at Modelex recently sold me some of the original style tin/lead solder, and now soldering is breeze again - I thought it was just me!

 

 

[ikks]

Looks really good except for the chimney, seems like the rim is too wide......just me perhaps!!

 

Rgds....Mike

[malcolmy]

The recent thread of Axelcounter's where he is building a Falcon Brass Stanier Mogul, made me realise that I haven't concluded my creation yet!

 

Chris at Golden Arrow managed to turn my average modelling into something to be really proud of - thanks Chris!

 

Here are some photos:

 

Firstly running with the Stanier tender (as the prototype is these days - though in BR lined black):

 

 

 

And then with the (correct?) Fowler tender: