PECO points and pl13 switches

[worzel]

Not sure if this is the right place for this post but can anyone tell me what is the best way to get these to work together mechanicly   i am gluing the pl13 switches below 75 electrofrog points to work the frog polarity but I can't figure out what to use through the tiebar and switch I have been using panel pins but they're too sloppy   and then picture hook pins but forcing them through the switch tends to dissasssemble the switch    very frustrating !!!!    when I amusing peco point motors there is no problem  as the post is exactly the right diameter   so what does everyone else use ??

[stewartingram]

I've been trying to put off posting this for a while as I'm not at home, and on a dodgy laptop, but feel it might be prudent right now?

 

Using code 75 points, I needed to a)motorise, b)switch the frog polarity.

Knowing all the right suggestions, I'm aware of Tortoise and Cobalt but rejected those on cost. I have a stack of old point "motors" ranging from H&M to Peco & SEEP. I've decided in the main to use SEEP, but was not 100% happy with them.

Compared to H&M (old fashined heavy engineering) they feel feeble. But a home made CDU gets over that.

The inbuilt switch is rubbish (by my standards, working in the comms industry since 1964) so I decided to use add-on microswitches (but how?).

Fitting/alignment is tricky but critical, so a method of making that easy was devised.

 

So far, I'm reasonably happy with the outcome, when I get home I'll do some diagrams and pics to show how it was done.

Basically I've made a simple plasticard baseplate on which the SEEP, the uswitch, and a new copperclad tiebar are mounted. It is designed to be simple, cheap, and easy to replicate in quantity. Having a new tiebar gives an option of using the orignal SEEP drive pin, or a replacement, allowing some variation in position that the SEEP is fitted in relation to the point, thus avoiding baseboard framing etc.

When installing the unit, some very simple alignment aids are used, making the positioning of the unit, which is critical for best operation, "first time easy".

As I say, back home early in the week, hope someone finds it of interest.

 

Stewart

[lilchris]

I have used peco point motors under the bsaeboard with PL13 switches glued under the motor. To be honest I am dissapointed with them they are not reliable enough for me. I had 13 of them working ok then suddenly a spate of shorts as led me to replace them with cobalts with their switches. I am also using a hex juicer temporaly for a couple of the frogs  while I replace the motors. I am working in n-gauge so positioning of the switches is crucial but even then I have found at least two that just dont work any more even though they have never been used in angor.

[stewartingram]

I've been trying to put off posting this for a while as I'm not at home, and on a dodgy laptop, but feel it might be prudent right now?

 

Using code 75 points, I needed to a)motorise, b)switch the frog polarity.

Knowing all the right suggestions, I'm aware of Tortoise and Cobalt but rejected those on cost. I have a stack of old point "motors" ranging from H&M to Peco & SEEP. I've decided in the main to use SEEP, but was not 100% happy with them.

Compared to H&M (old fashined heavy engineering) they feel feeble. But a home made CDU gets over that.

The inbuilt switch is rubbish (by my standards, working in the comms industry since 1964) so I decided to use add-on microswitches (but how?).

Fitting/alignment is tricky but critical, so a method of making that easy was devised.

 

So far, I'm reasonably happy with the outcome, when I get home I'll do some diagrams and pics to show how it was done.

Basically I've made a simple plasticard baseplate on which the SEEP, the uswitch, and a new copperclad tiebar are mounted. It is designed to be simple, cheap, and easy to replicate in quantity. Having a new tiebar gives an option of using the orignal SEEP drive pin, or a replacement, allowing some variation in position that the SEEP is fitted in relation to the point, thus avoiding baseboard framing etc.

When installing the unit, some very simple alignment aids are used, making the positioning of the unit, which is critical for best operation, "first time easy".

As I say, back home early in the week, hope someone finds it of interest.

 

Stewart

Update, sorry been busy this week so I didn't get time to do the pics. I've gone back to work today after a months sick leave, but have Mon/Tues off so I may get on to it then.

 

Stewart

[Kenton]

Stopped using them years ago - unreliable (there was a topic on them recently)

 

Replace them and the solenoid with something better Tortoise, Cobalt even a simple microswitch if you are really desperate to hear the reassuring thump of the solenoid.

[worzel]

Hi Worzel

Have a word with peco's technical advice centre the number is on their web page, they can supply the correct size pins normally for a small charge, some model shops also hold stocks. 

Thanks a lot    stupidly hadn't thought of the bleeding obvious   i'll ring them tomorrow         jim

[RAF96]

I used Hornby track pins albeit through the tie bar on Hornby points, just make sure you don't push them too far in and tighten up the mechanism in any way. Getting the switch central was a canny task. Just to note also that using pl-13s this way you need to trim off the locating lugs used to clip them to solenoid motors.